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Old 04-12-2013, 09:01 PM   #11
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Let's say you are talking about the electrically operated TT braking system here. It is not a good idea to use these for holding a TT in place--at all. There are a couple of good reasons: 1) The brakes will need a source of electrical power, the tow vehicle when connected to it, or the battery, usually mounted on the tonque of the TT. Using the electric brakes steadily will discharge this battery very quickly--PERIOD. 2) When the brakes are applied there is a solenoid within the braking mechanism that is energized. This contributes to the battery drain and it will become very hot if left "ON" for even a moderate period of time this burning out this solenoid. There is a piece of steel plate mounted within the cast iron brake drum. When the solenoid is energized every time this steel plate passes the solenoid it make the brake shoes expand just a bitwhich gives you the braking power. BUT--IF you just happens to stop at the exact spot over the solenoid when you are parked and you energize the braking system the steel plate will magnetize and create a deep drain on the solenoid which will burn it out very quickly. Your best bet is as others have mentioned: Use good chocks, not the plastic type, and use "X" chocks between the wheels. I have found the "X" chocks also eliminate much of the TT rocking when one is walking around in it.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:15 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Triguy View Post


One tip is to make sure you tighten them periodically. After arriving at a site and setting up, the tires will have cooled after a few hours and so a re-tighten is necessary to snug them up.
I see a lot of people on the forum saying they need re-tightening after a few hours, but I have used them since 06 and have never had to re-tighten them. I guess I must tighten them enough when I first park or maybe I over tighten them.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:09 PM   #13
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Magnetic trailer brakes do not lock the wheels, they energize the magnet which causes the brake to shift and sort of wedge the brake shoes as the wheel turns. It will not hold a trailer steady.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:26 PM   #14
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I see a lot of people on the forum saying they need re-tightening after a few hours, but I have used them since 06 and have never had to re-tighten them. I guess I must tighten them enough when I first park or maybe I over tighten them.
Well we drove 400-500 miles only stopping for gas, unhooked and set up in about 45 min. A day later the tires had cooled enough that the chocks had loosened up and the trailer shifted while we were in it and rolled about a foot back, and we tighten ours up until the metal of the chocks flex. So now I check them a couple hours later and every morning. I usually get a few more turns the next 2 times I check.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:19 AM   #15
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If you don't use x-chocks just chock both sided of the tires it will also remove back and forth motion to some extent. I can't get the bal chocks to fit my camper so I am making my own out of 4x4's and some threaded rod. Oh yeah the original question do you want to activate the brakes no because they run off the battery and it will kill the battery. Not only that repeatedly using the switch will wear it out and may not reset some day. Yes test it to make sure it works but the campground is not the place do it at home where you can get replacement parts if it breaks. I"ve seen it happen more than once where they won't reset because something breaks inside.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:47 AM   #16
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A good way if not using xchocks or rotochoks is the put the rear chocks down, back against them, then put the front ones in (takes 2 people, one driving, one cocking)
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:00 AM   #17
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If you don't use x-chocks just chock both sided of the tires it will also remove back and forth motion to some extent. I can't get the bal chocks to fit my camper so I am making my own out of 4x4's and some threaded rod. Oh yeah the original question do you want to activate the brakes no because they run off the battery and it will kill the battery. Not only that repeatedly using the switch will wear it out and may not reset some day. Yes test it to make sure it works but the campground is not the place do it at home where you can get replacement parts if it breaks. I"ve seen it happen more than once where they won't reset because something breaks inside.
I also have a wide spread axles in the need of x-chocks. There is a BAL 28014 X-Chock Tire Locking Chock system that extends out for wider axles. They should work but higher priced.
I'm think about doing the same thing and making my own out of 4X4, 2X4, and threaded rod. I'm thinking of making an X out of the 4x4s with a pivot in the center and two rods on each side to tighten it down. How did you have in mind with the 4x4s?
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:28 PM   #18
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I was just going to round both sides to fit the tire on 4 pieces of 4x4. then drill a hole in the center and run a threaded rod through. Then put a fender washer and nuts on outside then tighten. I can't use the x locks because my tires are too close together to get them between. I believe my camper has 19" wheels and I tried several different sets of chocks. none would fit between.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:33 PM   #19
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I was just going to round both sides to fit the tire on 4 pieces of 4x4. then drill a hole in the center and run a threaded rod through. Then put a fender washer and nuts on outside then tighten. I can't use the x locks because my tires are too close together to get them between. I believe my camper has 19" wheels and I tried several different sets of chocks. none would fit between.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:50 PM   #20
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Has anyone use their emergency trailer brake to keep trailer from moving forward while unhitching on sites that slope? I use good wheel chocks and the chocks that go between the tires before I unhook however, I still cringe when on a slope and i unhook camper (especially if slope is toward TV) It recommends you test the brake periodically so I don't believe it would harm anything. Looking for opinions. Thanks.
Trailer brakes need the wheel to be rotating to work. The magnet drags on the rotating wheel to activate a lever that puts on the brake. When rotation stops, there is no force to keep the brakes on.
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