Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-16-2018, 09:32 AM   #1
Rv Living Novice
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Kansas
Posts: 16
How-to, DIY "Insulating bottom of RV" with PICS!

I just wanted to share my project with fellow RV owners on how I winterized the bottom of my Puma 39PQB Destination Camper. Since we plan on living in it this winter it was very important to not have any tanks or water lines freeze. Fortunately we live in Kansas which isn't known for super cold winters, but it does get below 0 on occasion. We are still planning on putting up a windbreak, but I'll get to that in a moment.

-Supplies purchased (all purchased from Menards).
(9) Panels Johns Manville Foil Faced Polyiso Foam Insulation 1" x 4' x 8' R-6
(5) Packages Guardian R-49 Unfaced Fiberglass Insulation Batt 24" x 48" (48 sq. ft.)
(1) Roll Reflectix R-3.7 Reflective Insulation 24" x 25' (Did not use much, couldn've bought a much smaller roll)
(1) Roll Intertape Polymer Group Film Tape 1.88" x 120 yd


This project was very much like putting together a puzzle. I used the bottom lip of the "I" beams that run along the outside to hold up the foam panels. Basically get as much insulation as you can and fill the cavity. Sometimes it is a bit of a chore holding up the insulation while also pushing up the foam board to fit, but it is doable. On some occasions I would angle the board on one side of the I beam lip, put a few pieces of the fiberglass on top of the board and then angle the other end upward until it was over the other I beam and "click" into place. Some sections underneath lacked a lip on the crossbracing, so immediate taping of the board had to take place in order to keep the foam board up.

The sections with piping had to have a rectangular section cut out in order to fit the foam board. Once the foam board is all up, I came back with the foil tape and pieces of foil bubble wrap and sealed the pipes and surrounding cutouts. Note that in the areas underneath with no tanks you can easily put up full pieces of the 13" thick insulation and it fits perfectly. The areas with tanks I had to cut the insulation into thinner strips and shove on the sides of the tanks, and then tear pieces of insulation thinner in order to fit the small space in-between the tank and the foam panels.

Taping consists of all the edges pipe holes, and a few holes on the "I" beams used for wiring and small holes on the slide bars. One of my biggest concerns is keeping rodents and bugs out from the sealed areas. That is why I used foil backed foam and foil tape. One more note, there were a couple of areas that were a few inches wide left over where a piece of foam board just didn't seem like it would fit well being cut so thin. That is also where I used long stretches of the foil bubble wrap to fill those gaps.

I am hoping this will help keep the heat from the gas furnace runs and the heater pads contained in one area. We will see how it lasts in the long run. I have also ordered a few "J" hook tie-down straps to strap across in some areas where weight in time may sag the panels, especially in those areas lacking a lip to hold the panel up.

As far as a windbreak goes we are planning on putting up this around the perimeter of the camper to cut wind. http://a.co/d/7L5KbrA Everyone said to use hay bails or wood boards, but I see that as being a huge draw for rodents.

Anyway, I hope you all get some use from this DIY.

Thanks!
-Jayson
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181014_101211.jpg
Views:	284
Size:	351.6 KB
ID:	189348   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181014_101151.jpg
Views:	261
Size:	326.0 KB
ID:	189349   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181014_101146.jpg
Views:	276
Size:	354.3 KB
ID:	189350  
__________________

nodebtpuma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 09:30 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 119
How does it work?
__________________

WolfPup2018 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2018, 09:05 AM   #3
Rv Living Novice
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Kansas
Posts: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfPup2018 View Post
How does it work?
So far, so good. The lowest it has gotten here is about 27 so only time will tell. We haven't had to turn on any tank heaters though, so that's a plus. Now it's time to put in the heated water hose!
nodebtpuma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2018, 10:34 AM   #4
Head Rambler
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 6,597
That looks very nice. Thanks for the write-up and the pics.

I have plans on doing something like that to ours, but I plan on using coroplast sheets to cover the insulation and cover from skirt to skirt instead of just between the frame rails.
It'll take a little more work, but I think it'll be worth it since we regularly tow ours down the road.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
Bama Rambler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2018, 11:00 AM   #5
Rv Living Novice
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Kansas
Posts: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
That looks very nice. Thanks for the write-up and the pics.

I have plans on doing something like that to ours, but I plan on using coroplast sheets to cover the insulation and cover from skirt to skirt instead of just between the frame rails.
It'll take a little more work, but I think it'll be worth it since we regularly tow ours down the road.
No problem! Apparently the RV companies use coroplast on the "all season" campers bottoms. The ones that I've seen skirted that way were only in-between the frame rails. I was originally going to wrap from side to side with house wrap, but I would've had to rely on just the tape to hold everything up. I may go back and cut foil foam boards to put up under those side sections, but as far as I can tell there aren't any water lines up there, just flooring. I did end up cutting the remaining foam board I had and put it on top of the carpet underneath the couch, dining seat, and one of my girls beds. I couldn't find a great way to insulate the slides further, but I think the walls have insulation. The floors of the slides only have a wood floor and carpet on top, thus the extra insulation on the floors. I did also see that the doors that open to the outside underneath our bed and the dining seat have ZERO insulation, so I put a small cut piece in front of those also. I'll have to buy one more big piece to go under our King bed and then I think I'll be done.
nodebtpuma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2018, 12:15 PM   #6
Head Rambler
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 6,597
That's being pretty thorough.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
Bama Rambler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2018, 02:41 PM   #7
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 12
Very Impressive and Like the way you think !
MCCOY1998CARDINAL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 09:50 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Blender's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by nodebtpuma View Post
I just wanted to share my project with fellow RV owners on how I winterized the bottom of my Puma 39PQB Destination Camper. Since we plan on living in it this winter it was very important to not have any tanks or water lines freeze. Fortunately we live in Kansas which isn't known for super cold winters, but it does get below 0 on occasion. We are still planning on putting up a windbreak, but I'll get to that in a moment.



-Supplies purchased (all purchased from Menards).

(9) Panels Johns Manville Foil Faced Polyiso Foam Insulation 1" x 4' x 8' R-6

(5) Packages Guardian R-49 Unfaced Fiberglass Insulation Batt 24" x 48" (48 sq. ft.)

(1) Roll Reflectix R-3.7 Reflective Insulation 24" x 25' (Did not use much, couldn've bought a much smaller roll)

(1) Roll Intertape Polymer Group Film Tape 1.88" x 120 yd





This project was very much like putting together a puzzle. I used the bottom lip of the "I" beams that run along the outside to hold up the foam panels. Basically get as much insulation as you can and fill the cavity. Sometimes it is a bit of a chore holding up the insulation while also pushing up the foam board to fit, but it is doable. On some occasions I would angle the board on one side of the I beam lip, put a few pieces of the fiberglass on top of the board and then angle the other end upward until it was over the other I beam and "click" into place. Some sections underneath lacked a lip on the crossbracing, so immediate taping of the board had to take place in order to keep the foam board up.



The sections with piping had to have a rectangular section cut out in order to fit the foam board. Once the foam board is all up, I came back with the foil tape and pieces of foil bubble wrap and sealed the pipes and surrounding cutouts. Note that in the areas underneath with no tanks you can easily put up full pieces of the 13" thick insulation and it fits perfectly. The areas with tanks I had to cut the insulation into thinner strips and shove on the sides of the tanks, and then tear pieces of insulation thinner in order to fit the small space in-between the tank and the foam panels.



Taping consists of all the edges pipe holes, and a few holes on the "I" beams used for wiring and small holes on the slide bars. One of my biggest concerns is keeping rodents and bugs out from the sealed areas. That is why I used foil backed foam and foil tape. One more note, there were a couple of areas that were a few inches wide left over where a piece of foam board just didn't seem like it would fit well being cut so thin. That is also where I used long stretches of the foil bubble wrap to fill those gaps.



I am hoping this will help keep the heat from the gas furnace runs and the heater pads contained in one area. We will see how it lasts in the long run. I have also ordered a few "J" hook tie-down straps to strap across in some areas where weight in time may sag the panels, especially in those areas lacking a lip to hold the panel up.



As far as a windbreak goes we are planning on putting up this around the perimeter of the camper to cut wind. http://a.co/d/7L5KbrA Everyone said to use hay bails or wood boards, but I see that as being a huge draw for rodents.



Anyway, I hope you all get some use from this DIY.



Thanks!

-Jayson


Nice
Blender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2018, 06:23 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
nomad297's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,778
Good Job!

I hope it performs as well as it looks. You did a nice job. Thank you for taking the time to post this project and including pictures.

Bruce
__________________
2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
nomad297 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2018, 08:58 AM   #10
Rv Living Novice
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Kansas
Posts: 16
Update!

Several of the foam boards don't have a place to rest properly because the joists didn't have a lip on them. One in particular was sagging fairly badly. I purchased some "j" hook tie down straps from Amazon and put a cut up pool noodle on it to press the board back up. The other straps I put on the boards that I knew didn't have the supports, but weren't sagging just for good measure. All of the foil tape I put on is holding great!

Also, the floor is much warmer when the temperature drops down at night. You still have to deal with the crispness that leeches through the slide-out walls, windows, and floors. It is much more insulated though. The combo of the rugs and insulation definitely takes the chill out of the floor.

On a side note, I purchased a CAMCO heated hose from Amazon for the water supply. Sucker leaked out of the box. Definitely would advice against buying those.

Another side note, we filled our propane tanks for the first time the other day. Two 30 gallon tanks cost about $45. I couldn't believe how cheap it was. At that price I will run to the place down the road every few weeks to fill up when it gets super cold. Tanks were easy to take out and get filled.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	foam straps.jpg
Views:	139
Size:	487.0 KB
ID:	190340  
__________________

nodebtpuma is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
winter

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:56 PM.