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Old 01-29-2016, 03:13 PM   #31
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I found that I cannot get 30A from most CG receptacles because of poor connections at the receptacle... Once the connection overheats it draws even more amps & trips the CG breaker... One connection was so poor my 30A plug overheated & was ruined. Fortunately I carry a spare Camco 30A plug & had it fixed in under 30 minutes...

This summer I will add a separate 30A line to power a 2nd bedroom A/C and a couple dedicated indoor & outdoor plugs for electric skillets or space heaters.
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Old 01-29-2016, 03:32 PM   #32
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I found that I cannot get 30A from most CG receptacles because of poor connections at the receptacle... Once the connection overheats it draws even more amps & trips the CG breaker... One connection was so poor my 30A plug overheated & was ruined. Fortunately I carry a spare Camco 30A plug & had it fixed in under 30 minutes...

This summer I will add a separate 30A line to power a 2nd bedroom A/C and a couple dedicated indoor & outdoor plugs for electric skillets or space heaters.

Exactly what I did to my 30 amp Sabre.



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Old 01-29-2016, 04:10 PM   #33
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There is one way a 50 would be better than a 30. Breakers usually have a duty rating of around 80 percent. So a 30 amp. Breaker typically only can deliver 24 amps sustained(maybe a bit more). Each leg of a 50 should deliver at least 40.

Using a 50 amp plug would make the breaker in the trailer the weak point. Using it the other way around, the campground breaker is usually the weak point.

Good luck!
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Old 01-29-2016, 05:02 PM   #34
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Keep in mind that the VAST majority of the wiring in your camper is protected by individual breakers. Those SHOULD trip if there is an issue. The 30A breaker on the converter is technically only protecting the wiring between the pedestal and the converter. The bulk of that run is on the outside of the camper. And I THINK that the 50A breaker should trip if there is an overload on either leg. And I THINK that the 10 gauge power cord would probably still trip a 50A breaker, though it would probably heat up considerably before doing so. Maybe an actual electrician could inform us if this is true.
There is a lot of confusion here on overcurrent protection, so I'll give you a brief dissertation. A circuit breaker or fuse is designed to open when it is passing more than the rated current. It may trip/blow if it is passing nearly the rated current for a long time or it will trip/blow quickly if it is passing a large amount of current over it's rating. So, if you are drawing around 30A on the RV panel, the main breaker(30A) will likely trip after it has been running for some time. On the other hand, the umbilical cord if short circuited, will cause the 50 A breaker/fuse to trip /blow very quickly since it will be drawing well in excess of the 50A rating of the overcurrent device. (In actuality, the fault current for a direct short is likely several hundred Amps.) This all boils down to if you are not tripping the internal 30A breaker in the TT and you do not have a short circuit in the umbilical cable, then you should not trip the 50A breaker in the panel.
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Old 01-29-2016, 05:11 PM   #35
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When we had our MH, I carried a 50-30 adapter after a hot summer day when the pole breaker kept tripping. Bought one at the campground and no more tripping.
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Old 01-29-2016, 06:44 PM   #36
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So given all this. How would a 30A EMS react if used on a 50A circuit? Would it still protect the RV?
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Old 01-29-2016, 06:47 PM   #37
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So given all this. How would a 30A EMS react if used on a 50A circuit? Would it still protect the RV?

Works just fine.



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Old 01-29-2016, 07:24 PM   #38
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How would a 30A EMS react if used on a 50A circuit?
I have the portable Progressive Industries PT30C which goes after the 50/30A adapter & works fine - even when my 30A TT is drawing around 32A... The outdoor one allows me to see right-away what the pedestal is doing without having to go back inside the TT. However, I will likely install the internal one on my main line & use this portable one when I add the 2nd A/C & electric grill/heater circuit... I like that it has a time delay to protect the A/C compressor...

A while ago I was inspired by Turbs' pics & descriptions of adding the 2nd line...
EDIT - & yes I saw your thread on how you did the mod, so thanks Turbs!
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:26 PM   #39
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I have the portable Progressive Industries PT30C which goes after the 50/30A adapter & works fine - even when my 30A TT is drawing around 32A... The portable PT30C allows me to see how the pedestal is behaving before I plug-in my TT & I have enough windows on that side of the TT that I can see what it is doing. However, I will likely install the internal one on my main line & use this portable one when I add the 2nd A/C & electric grill circuit... I like that it has a time delay to protect the A/C compressor...

Did you see my thread on adding a second a/c to a 30 amp camper.


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Old 01-29-2016, 07:46 PM   #40
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So given all this. How would a 30A EMS react if used on a 50A circuit? Would it still protect the RV?
In a nutshell, yes, you are protected unless you have a bad connection on either end that is overheating. In that case, if the load current is large enough to cause severe heating at the high resistance connection, the pedestal breaker(30A or 50A) will not see this as a short circuit and will not trip. The result could be melting of the connection which would require replacement. If the connection that fails is the power inlet to the RV, this can get expensive to replace. since it will also include a new termination of the cable connector. I suggest all current carrying connections be regularly examined for any discoloration ( copper & bronzae usually turn brown from heat damage) and a good buffing with a wire brush will help. There are some anti corrosive compounds you can coat the connectors with that will help maintain the connection. We use Versa-Seal VS-8B from Hubbel Power Systems, Inc. This stuff works very well on your battery connections, too.
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