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Old 01-11-2016, 01:02 PM   #11
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Yes, put the plug back in. I left mine out one year and in the spring had to go rent a pipe tap to clean out the threads so the plug would go back in.

Harold in Michigan

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Old 01-11-2016, 01:07 PM   #12
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Put plug back in. A person who is at the same CG as we are had no water when he arrived in Oct. The local repair person put air pressure on the system and blew a dead mouse out of the water system. I got into the pipe when the water filter was not put back on.

Terry and Janet
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Old 01-11-2016, 01:10 PM   #13
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Water heater plug

Good advice to re-install loosely, bought my fiver used 1 year old previous owner left plug out and I had a mess of lady bug type beetles to clean out of water heater.
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:14 PM   #14
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:20 AM   #15
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I always replace it finger tight after winterizing. After the tank is drained there is lots of space for expansion of any residual H2O. As many others have said replacing the plug also prevents any foreign matter from entering the tank. My experience is that after the hot water tank is emptied the real danger from freezing /expansion is from the residual water in the lines, fittings and taps. That's why you need to close the by-pass valve and blow the lines out with compressed air and/or replace the H2O in the lines with anti-freeze.
In 12 years of RVing I've blown out the lines, used RV anti-freeze and done both and they have all worked but I have always replaced the hot water tank drain plug after draining the tank. So far so good.
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:25 AM   #16
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Location: Iowa
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Originally Posted by myfirst5th View Post
Happy New Year to all you Happy Campers !!!

For winterizing discussion, I have a 325 Crusader 5th wheel.

My question is after properly winterizing the RV, is there a reason to leave the Hot Water Tank Drain Plug "OUT" for the winter during outside storage in Michigan ?

I've been told the Drain Plug MUST BE LEFT OUT during winter storage.

Not sure why we should, I used compressed air to chase all the water out.

But if it's suggested to do so, would simply popping the pressure relief valve serve the same purpose?

One of my concerns is that in the spring, some little creature is going to make that his new home.

Thank you much, and Happy Camping,


I've left mine out every winter for 10 + years.

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:45 AM   #17
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I remove W/H A-rod and insert cut off washing machine hose to Flush out White Crud Before it takes a Set over the Winter! I also run a BIG bottle brush in the tank at the Same time the Hose is inside,did I say lots of White Crud runs out ! Now I take a tooth brush and clean the thread area and use a Tap to clean the threads and Shop Vac the thread area,check/replace? A-Rod with Tef Tape saves doing in the spring and the Threads are Not Rusted! Youroo!!
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:50 AM   #18
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Yes, I also wrap the plug with Teflon tape. I think that if you read the directions on either type of Anode replacement type, it will tell you to use the Teflon tape, not Plumbers putty.

2012 Dodge 3500 Cummins Crew Cab 4X4, "Decluttered" and Tuned/2013 Forrest River Viper XLR 390V10 Toy Hauler/2012 Harley Davidson Ultra Glide CVO.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:35 PM   #19
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The dealer left mine out which bothered me but I am a newbie. They said it is standard procedure. But after reading this thread I put mine back in today. I noticed that the threads were rusty from leaving it out. Another reason not to return to that shop.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:48 PM   #20
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When I winterize I pull the plug, once the tank is drained I then will let a little pink stuff go through the line to the heater to make sure it's protected, then bypass the heater.

Then come spring I will flush out the tank with fresh water. In the meantime I just toss the anode in the bottom of the heater area and put the cover back on.

Now-2014 Sierra 346RETS 5er BUB
Then-2002 Keystone Springdale 286RLDS TT

Nights camped in 2014-28, 2015-127, 2016-10
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drain, hot water, water, winter

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