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Old 12-19-2015, 11:31 PM   #1
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Leveling

Help me understand this problem. Travel trailer, rockwood 2175vs. Living room is level fore and aft and side to side with less than a percent off. Bathroom which is in the nose is 2 to 3 percent off. It is obvious there as water will pool a little in one side of the shower and the bathroom door would shut itself. I can't wrap my head around fixing it if it is level under the trailer wheels. Everyone has told me you level with the wheels.

I only have 4 stabilizing jacks around the RV. You can't level with these. What is wrong when one part is level but not the rest?

Thanks, a new guy to rving.
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:03 AM   #2
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Leveling question

I can't wrap my head around my leveling problem. I am new too.

I am at the kitchen almost perfectly level.

This is side to side and fore and aft.

My travel trailer is 31 ft, 2175vs v nose.

My bathroom level is off. My shower pan collects water indicating a lean to the left as you face the nose. My level shows the same.

If I have to level by using things under the tires, how do I fix the level just the front? So confused.
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:08 AM   #3
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You want to level side to side before unhooking with wood blocks, Lynx Levelers, Andersen Levelers, or something like that under the tires. The front to back leveling is done with the tongue jack.

No matter how level I think my camper is, sometimes my sink won't drain or the grease in the frying pan goes to 1 side. I know I have to be slightly high on the street side to get things working properly.
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:37 AM   #4
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With Both slides on the Same side and your still listing to the Curb side,your Parked `on a HILL! On a LEVEL site with both slides out your unit should be Low on the Slide side! Where as it SHOULD need Raised on the Slide side! With your shower in the Curb side front can you access it with the B/R slide retracted? Youroo!!
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:38 AM   #5
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One area of your camper can be completely level, while the next may be off ever so slightly. Doors may close by themselves (or open), water may not drain, etc. Figure out the "level" that best works for you, and repeat. You may not be able to tell the difference, but it will make a difference to the water or door.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:21 AM   #6
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Leveling Question

I have the same exact trailer you have the 2715 vs. I had pretty good results by backing up,or pulling forward onto a 2x6 on the slide side. then lower the slide side stabilizers, front first then the curb side. Sometimes water will still puddle in the shower but that seemed to help alot. Usually if the bathroom door dosen't want to stay shut you know you have to raise the slide side a little more. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:06 PM   #7
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I level my refrigerator & don't even worry about the rest. The shower base in my TT matches the refrigerator so it is pretty easy to do.
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:16 PM   #8
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X2 on the fridge!
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:27 PM   #9
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Level ha ha ha

Being perfectly level without a hydraulic leveling system is tough side to side. If I can get within an inch side to side I’m happy, ½ inch if I’m staying for more than 4 days. Front to back, is done with the tongue jack so that direction is easy. I think seasonal people level slightly better even blocking their frames in several locations.
Those stabilizers on the corners of the trailer are not for leveling but can be used for fractional leveling. There are several TT owners who have added an extra set of stabilizers near the axels; I think all who have added these have trailers over 25’. I through the cheep flexing crank handle away and use a nice solid crank allowing for extra torch, to speed things up I have a cordless drill but it doesn’t always give me the torch I want.
I believe leveling for the fridge is the most critical and that is mostly side to side of the fridge. Early on, I put a level in the bottom of the freezer and adjusted the outside levels to that location. I believe that the levels installed by the manufacture are installed to look square to the location of installation and not necessarily level.
I keep a squeegee in the bathroom for those many unlevel times
I often sleep in parking lots on the way to where-ever and trying to find a level spot is impossible so I try to park the nose low and block the back tires on my TV to get level-ish.
Getting level is one those camping things that you get better at with time as well become tolerant too not being. I installed a large level that can easily be seen from the driver’s seat and use wedges to drive up on.
I know it’s a bad picture of the level but it’s what I had handy, it’s there in the middle.
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:55 PM   #10
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If you pull into a campground and decide to level a particular place in your RV, there are absolutely other places in the RV that are not level. Now, go level that area and the 1st area you leveled will no longer be level. Lesson---these trailers/motorhomes are not build on a perfectly level platform! As the old saying goes---"it is what it is"!
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:31 PM   #11
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I think any of us would be hard pressed to find all stations on our units be the same state of level ... RV's are just not made that precise. Pick a spot that attracts the most of your attention and constantly level to it ... forget about the rest. Like mentioned earlier ... many people level to their refrigerators.
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:58 PM   #12
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X2 MtnGuy & lswartz,
If you are running your fridge on LP for it to work at 100% the freezer needs to be dead level front to back and side to side if it isn't your ice cream will not stay frozen and you will use more gas. We use a 4' level at the main entry door in front of the fridge on the floor..making sure this part of the TT is level both ways....the rest will take care of itself...water will drain to the black tank and the BT will drain to the sewer. We've always had frozen ice cream and cold beer. This works for us.

Merry Christmas
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Old 12-23-2015, 08:09 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by MainelyUS View Post
X2 MtnGuy & lswartz,
If you are running your fridge on LP for it to work at 100% the freezer needs to be dead level front to back and side to side if it isn't your ice cream will not stay frozen and you will use more gas. We use a 4' level at the main entry door in front of the fridge on the floor..making sure this part of the TT is level both ways....the rest will take care of itself...water will drain to the black tank and the BT will drain to the sewer. We've always had frozen ice cream and cold beer. This works for us.

Merry Christmas
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HaHa! A 4 foot level is just a bit too big for my refrigerator. I use a much smaller one on the refrigerator itself for levelling as the floor is not perfectly level. I then found out that my shower base is level with the refrigerator & much easier to check. I never had melted ice cream or god forbid warm beer.
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Old 12-23-2015, 11:39 PM   #14
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Before I got my levelers, I used a plastic cup with ridges, put water in to one of the ridges and sat in on the counter. When it was even all the way around, good enough. Used it to check the levelers, perfect!
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Old 12-24-2015, 01:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lswartz View Post
HaHa! A 4 foot level is just a bit too big for my refrigerator. I use a much smaller one on the refrigerator itself for levelling as the floor is not perfectly level. I then found out that my shower base is level with the refrigerator & much easier to check. I never had melted ice cream or god forbid warm beer.
You need a 4' fridge to hide the Christmas goodies....
Merry Christmas
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Old 12-29-2015, 10:01 PM   #16
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As other has stated do not use the stabilizing jacks, they will bend
that will cost you dollars $$$ and make you mad right in your back
pocket.

I have wooden ramps I built, I can use them for fixing a tire or
leveling the 5th wheel with little effort

Also you can buy little plastic or even metal levels about 5" or 6"
long, we have one over the stove cover, one on each side of out
5th wheel and at each end of the 5'er.
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Old 12-29-2015, 10:22 PM   #17
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Just note. The fridge has to be level period. No matter what you run on it needs to be level for the chemical reaction to work properly. That is from the who manufactures them.
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