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Old 07-26-2012, 07:24 PM   #1
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plugging into a 50amp site

Looking for some help. New travel trailer. We booked a site and had to get a 50amp spot. Am I just in need of an adapter that will accept my 30amp cord?
Is that all I need? Thanks for any help.
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:27 PM   #2
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Looking for some help. New travel trailer. We booked a site and had to get a 50amp spot. Am I just in need of an adapter that will accept my 30amp cord?
Is that all I need? Thanks for any help.
That's it, you can get the adapters at Wally World, Camping World, and just about any RV seller.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...h-handle/57723

We talked about it some here:

50 amp or 30 amp??
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:34 PM   #3
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I purchased a 30 to 50 amp adapter several months ago and put it in my stowage bin. 4th of July week at a campground the 30 amp breaker on the power podium kept kicking out. I told my dw...I'll fix that, went out and got my adapter and plugged in to the 50 amp, no more problems. Last week at same cg...I just went ahead and used my adapter again. My Wally World does not stock that much stuff for RV's. They have the usual 30 to 20 adapters, had to go down the road to another one and found out they have more stuff.
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towd View Post
Looking for some help. New travel trailer. We booked a site and had to get a 50amp spot. Am I just in need of an adapter that will accept my 30amp cord?
Is that all I need? Thanks for any help.
Normally CG offering 50 amp will also provide 30 amp and usually 20 amp outlets in the same Pedestal. Problem with converting the 50 amp to 30 amp adapter, the supply circuit protection only sees a 50 amp load supply, not 30 that you present. You can damage your cord and power box if shore breaker doesn't open in a fault. Save your $20- and connect properly.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:10 PM   #5
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Wouldnt' your converter main breaker kick out first if there was a fault?
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:15 PM   #6
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Probably would waste your $$ on adapter and not need it . . . but there is always Murphy standby to help you out. I'd rather waste and have the DW happy at the CG rather than the alternative.

Travel safe & enjoy your journeys!
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:56 PM   #7
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Another reason to keep the 50-to-30 handy:

The 50-amp receptacle in the box (where there are both) is likely to be used less, and likely "tighter". Loose connectors are more likely to get hot.

Given the choice, I will use my adapter unless it's obviously better to use the 30-amp plug directly.

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Old 07-27-2012, 01:04 AM   #8
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"The 50-amp receptacle in the box (where there are both) is likely to be used less, and likely "tighter". Loose connectors are more likely to get hot."

That makes sense - Thanks!
Guess what I'm going to do from now on...
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:53 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
Normally CG offering 50 amp will also provide 30 amp and usually 20 amp outlets in the same Pedestal. Problem with converting the 50 amp to 30 amp adapter, the supply circuit protection only sees a 50 amp load supply, not 30 that you present. You can damage your cord and power box if shore breaker doesn't open in a fault. Save your $20- and connect properly.
Sorry Vince I have to disagree.

1) Most 30 amp sockets in multi-socket pedestals get used way more often than the 50 amp one and are typically burned, pitted, and loose. This typically results in higher resistance connections and lower output voltages.

2) While you are correct that a short in your cord would only be protected to 50 amps vice the 30 you are rated for, the main breaker in the camper (rated for 30) would protect your camper down stream from that. Any short bad enough to damage your cord would also blow the 50 amp breaker.

3) Should your camper try to draw more than 30 amps (like using the air conditioner and microwave and a toaster at the same time) your main 30 amp breaker would trip even though the pedestal could have handled it.

4) More likely since the 30 amp circuit breaker on the pedestal gets more use than the 50 (if properly shut off and turned on when hooking up and disconnecting), the 30 amp worn breaker may actually trip early and not provide the full 30 amp service you are expecting.

5) The way many 50 amp service panels are wired, the 30 amp and 20 amp sockets are "piggybacked" off of the 50 amp "double 50" breaker (one leg to the 30 socket and one leg to the 20 socket). The 50 amp breaker must be "on" to provide power to the 30 and 20 when wired this way. This prevents folks from trying to pull more than the 50 amps (on each leg) that each site is rated for (by plugging in other items on extension cords to the other sockets). I have also found this at 30 amp sites where the 20 amp GFCI duplex's breaker comes after the 30 amp "MAIN" that supplies the 30 amp RV socket.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:59 AM   #10
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The following website is helpful in explaining the differences between 30 and 50 amp RV services. It is also full of information about voltage drop, wire sizing, testing outlets (and how to make your own testers), piggybacking between outlets in campground pedestals like Lou just talked about in the previous post, installing your own rv outlets at home, and much more. Be prepared to spend some time there, and clicking on a lot of links.

The author is very adamant about testing each outlet, every time before you hook up.

RV Electric
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