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Old 11-05-2014, 11:47 PM   #1
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point of no return

I'm hoping to avoid winterizing by continuously heating the inside of the camper with an infared heater. There must be a point however that the exterior lines, tanks and water supplies will freeze despite interior heating. Does anyone know what I will call the differential temperature(i.e. the difference between the inside and outside temperature) where there is risk that the exterior plumbing will freeze? This assuming all water has been drained in the standard fashion out of all three tanks and the low point drains. For example if its 10 degrees outside and 40 degrees inside the differential temperature would be 30 degrees with a mean temperature of 25 degrees. I would think the system would be vulnerable at that point. But if its 10 degrees outside and 70 degrees inside the mean temperature is 40 degrees and that might work. This has probably been studied. Full timers probably know these figures cold(no pun intended). Any thoughts?
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Old 11-06-2014, 03:55 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lon View Post
Any thoughts?
the only thought I have is "man, you're making my head hurt"...
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:07 PM   #3
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If you're draining the lines anyways, not much more to blow them out and then not worry about it. It's not the lines you have to worry about freezing, it's any water in the lines. No water, no worries.




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Old 11-06-2014, 04:11 PM   #4
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I'm new here so.....
Why would you go through all of that when you can easily blow the lines out and/or add antifreeze. Antifreeze and blowing the lines are a lot less expensive than heating it all winter. IMO, 30 minutes of work to avoid math and worry.
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Old 11-06-2014, 05:07 PM   #5
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Why not winterize?

Heating is going to be expensive. I don't think the "differential" really makes any difference unless you have a heated basement model. Otherwise things like an outside shower or lines underneath the floor will freeze. And if you keep your rv at 70 degrees, you will have more condensation than you know what to do with, which will create a whole new problem to manage.

Winterizing is fairly easy and cheap - $15 worth of antifreeze would probably do it - or $100 at the dealer if you don't want to do it. Either way a lot cheaper than heat, not to mention repairs if something freezes.
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:17 PM   #6
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Thanks. I plan to make many winter trips on the weekends and maybe one skiing trip. It seems like it would be a pain to winterize after each trip and on the longer skiing trip to the Colorado mountains there must be a way to provide heat to the exterior tanks and lines.
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:28 PM   #7
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Ok, then while you're using it there are ways to keep the lines from freezing. Some people on here use heat tape, others just fill the fresh water tank and drain the hose, etc...

In between trips it's still easier to just drain it. Pick up a blow out plug and blow out the lines after each use. Maybe 15 minutes of your time.


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Old 11-06-2014, 11:16 PM   #8
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Use air and blow out lines after your trips..you'll find after you do it a few times it doesn't take but a few minutes.. The pink stuff is a hassle if your going to keep taking it out..
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:22 PM   #9
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I once stayed in the RV with overnight temps around 20-25. Using ceramic heaters (I was very low on propane), The water pump is located on the front storage area behind the stairs going up to the master bedroom. The next morning the pump would not operate. after I rushed to the local Ace hardware for propane we heated the RV to 80. The pump worked! Great wow. After many heart stoppers I decided I won't do that again..... The furnace has to supply heat throught the storage compartments too..
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:23 PM   #10
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If your calculations don't work out, or the temps dip far lower than you anticipated or the ever so accurate weather forecaster forecasted...and you burst some lines or plumbing fixtures, you will have much bigger problems. It's just a fact of life if you want to use it in winter, winterize....to not is asking for trouble.
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