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Old 04-11-2018, 08:48 PM   #1
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Power tongue Jack (pics)

Its very frustrating when the tailgate won't come down all the way because of the power jack. I tried to turn the jack but the holes don't line up and part of the jack hangs off the tongue plate. I tried taking the head apart and turn it, way too much wiring and labor to make that work. So I took the easy way out, I welded a plate on behind the base of the jack with the jack in position that was the same thickness as the tongue then unbolted the jack turned it 90* marked the spots to drill. Removed the jack without unwiring it and drilled the holes painted it and reinstalled the jack with lock nuts and washers problem solved. Took about 2.5 hours including paint dry time.
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:15 AM   #2
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Great fix. Looks fine
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Old 04-14-2018, 08:07 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaDog View Post
Its very frustrating when the tailgate won't come down all the way because of the power jack. I tried to turn the jack but the holes don't line up and part of the jack hangs off the tongue plate. I tried taking the head apart and turn it, way too much wiring and labor to make that work. So I took the easy way out, I welded a plate on behind the base of the jack with the jack in position that was the same thickness as the tongue then unbolted the jack turned it 90* marked the spots to drill. Removed the jack without unwiring it and drilled the holes painted it and reinstalled the jack with lock nuts and washers problem solved. Took about 2.5 hours including paint dry time.
I turned the jack head 90 degrees, tapped the now exposed holes and reinserted the bolts. Tailgate opens fully.
There is a how to here somewhere.
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Old 04-14-2018, 12:14 PM   #4
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I turned the jack head 90 degrees, tapped the now exposed holes and reinserted the bolts. Tailgate opens fully.
There is a how to here somewhere.
there was no way at the bolts without removing the gears on my unit so way too much work where a little welding/painting and no unwiring or removing gears did the job fine. You know what ever works for a person is what is best.
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Old 04-14-2018, 12:42 PM   #5
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Tongue jack interferes with tail gate

Enjoy.
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Old 04-14-2018, 12:56 PM   #6
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The problem, and the way you solved it, illustrates why man's best friend isn't always a dog. Often it can be a welder
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Old 04-14-2018, 01:32 PM   #7
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boy that funny I posted just under that I might try it when my warranty ran out.
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Old 04-14-2018, 08:02 PM   #8
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A longer hitch shank(or whatever it’s called) wouldn’t work?
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Old 04-14-2018, 10:01 PM   #9
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Yes a longer shank would work to allow the tailgate to come down but then you place the tongue weight farther away from the truck giving it more leverage and putting more force on the hitch and I didn't want that.
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Old 04-17-2018, 06:37 PM   #10
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Nice job SeaDog - I might do that to mine!
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:35 AM   #11
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More proof that the people who design some of the equipment have never been campers. Have the same problem since I changed out tow vehicles. The Tahoe had the 2 side by side doors that open like regular car doors, never was a problem with the power hitch. But once I got a regular pick up it is now a problem. Great solution. Seems like people with pick up trucks if they buy a power jack should just ask that the head be turned from the start.
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:11 PM   #12
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This works great for me.

https://jack-e-up.com/
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Old 05-31-2018, 07:47 AM   #13
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If I'm not mistaken you did make a video and post it up right? This weekend I found that my tailgate just clears by 1/2 inch in I'm lined up perfectly. But this is a great idea and excellent execution.
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Old 05-31-2018, 08:52 AM   #14
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This works great for me.

https://jack-e-up.com/
What do you use when you Remove the Jack for "Security"more Stuff to Haul! Youroo!!
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:37 AM   #15
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After you unhitch from tow vehicle you can level and put down your 4 - 6 stabilizers/jacks, then you can relieve the weight on the tongue jack. With the stabilizer jacks down it doesn't matter if it has any weight on it or not.
This way you can remove the tongue jack to deter theft or just leave it in place while parked in camp or at home... only removing just for travel and leaving tailgate down.
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Old 05-31-2018, 01:52 PM   #16
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After you unhitch from tow vehicle you can level and put down your 4 - 6 stabilizers/jacks, then you can relieve the weight on the tongue jack. With the stabilizer jacks down it doesn't matter if it has any weight on it or not.
This way you can remove the tongue jack to deter theft or just leave it in place while parked in camp or at home... only removing just for travel and leaving tailgate down.
DO NOT use Lippert Elect.Stabilizer Jacks to "Hold Up the Camper",this will/could be a Disaster!! Youroo!!
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Old 05-31-2018, 03:51 PM   #17
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Isn't it also possible to use the same holes and gain almost as much extra clearance by rotating the jack less than 180 degrees? This would place the rear corner of the jack facing forward. I know this would not look very professional, but it would avoiding the extra step of welding for those of us less skilled.
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Old 05-31-2018, 04:12 PM   #18
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Oh yes quite a few people have rotated their power jacks around to the next hole. Easy if they match up. No rule says it has to face forward with buttons.
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Old 05-31-2018, 04:43 PM   #19
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This works great for me.

https://jack-e-up.com/

X2 ..... have used the Jack-E-Up on both our Micro Lite 21DS and now our Micro Lite 25KS, ... I like everything about it, ... eliminates the tail gate problem, can't ever bend the jack, and when in storage, you can remove it and leave the tongue on blocks for extra security, ....

not really sure what youroo is referring to in post #14, .... it appears that he thinks we would remove it "for security" every time we're camping and using the trailer in the cg, ... I guess you could but I can't imagine anyone would do that, but removing it while in storage is certainly a possibility and IMO would certainly give extra security, ...
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Old 05-31-2018, 05:04 PM   #20
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a longer hitch draw bar would do the job too.
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