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Old 10-06-2016, 06:40 PM   #31
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Location: Worthington, MN
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Originally Posted by mrgem View Post
Thanks to all who have weighed in.

As I mentioned earlier, the owner's manual simply says "Open bypass valve on water heater. Drain water heater."

Will draining of the water heater take care of itself -- once the bypass valve is open? Or is there some other drain valve? I see a couple of drain valves (one red, one blue) coming out from the undercarriage just ahead of the rear wheels. Could these be the drains for the W/H?

Thanks.
You'll find the water heater on the outside of the trailer. It's a door about 2foot square. Open it up and you'll see the heater. There should be a drain plug towards the bottom. Remove it to drain. Plus there is a relief valve close to the top. Open it to help drain the water heater.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:14 PM   #32
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Winterize?

I live in the Austin, Tx area and since this is my first TT I asked other owners about winterizing and they said they don't winterize down here.. That kind of scares me since I lived in the cold country for many years and winterized my boat every year.. Any suggestions from rv's from this part of the country. I was going to take it out one more time and winterize it and got a lot of good advice here.
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Old 10-09-2016, 04:11 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by mrgem View Post
Thanks to all who have weighed in.

As I mentioned earlier, the owner's manual simply says "Open bypass valve on water heater. Drain water heater."

Will draining of the water heater take care of itself -- once the bypass valve is open? Or is there some other drain valve? I see a couple of drain valves (one red, one blue) coming out from the undercarriage just ahead of the rear wheels. Could these be the drains for the W/H?

Thanks.
water heater has a plug that you open to drain it.
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Old 10-09-2016, 04:23 PM   #34
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Tons of great information given. Referrals to You Tube were great. Watched 5 of them and got different approaches -- all useful.
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Old 10-09-2016, 04:46 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by flip48 View Post
I live in the Austin, Tx area and since this is my first TT I asked other owners about winterizing and they said they don't winterize down here.. That kind of scares me since I lived in the cold country for many years and winterized my boat every year.. Any suggestions from rv's from this part of the country. I was going to take it out one more time and winterize it and got a lot of good advice here.
I don't live in Austin but all I do here in central NC is blow out the lines, leave the various taps open, drain the pump and screen then put some antifreeze in the traps and toilet bowl. We use the trailer year round and have outside plumbing so we use bottled water once we start seeing the hard freeze nightly temperatures. If we lived further up north where the trailer stayed in storage I might do more but this has worked well for us here.
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:57 PM   #36
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Winterize?

Last year the coldest temp we saw was 32 degrees and that was only about an hour or so. Not really concerned about freeze but I think it would be good to clear all the lines.
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Old 10-10-2016, 12:58 AM   #37
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Couple of posts back recommending it be winterized by a dealership is the worst advice I've seen for a while on this forum.

DIY if you want it done right.

The cheap -50 deg Walmart RV antifreeze is just fine and with a couple days of -19 deg F temps each winter over the year, I never saw any damage.

I personally hate the residual small and taste of RV antifreeze and have only blown out the lines with compressed air this season. I did run a bit of antifreeze in my rv water pump because I was afraid that residual water could freeze and damage it.

I may change my mind and later run RV antifreeze but for now its all air.

I was surprised by how little water was in the lines after I opened the low water drain points first. Surprsingly, I blew out the most water from the toilet water line.

MICE ARE A BIG PROBLEM IN COLORADO especially if you store your RV in a field.

Dryer sheets are a waste of time.

Sealing entry points is a great idea but the little buggers will always find a way into your RV and can do some incredible damage.

Mice got into our heating duct system via a heater exhaust tube. They urinated and nested in my heater's squirrel cage fan area, others found the ducts very comfy and built nice nests in them. Another group of mice decided that it was easier to nest in the insulation under the floor above the coroplast liner. The amount of feces and urine stained insulation was impressive! It took us several days to remove all of the insulation, disinfect the entire undercarriage and replace the insulation. Cleaning the entire heating system was another day's job.

I'm blessed that my DW helped me eradicate the mouse problem. She didn't even squirm every time she reached to remove insulation and pulled out mice droppings and even dead mice.

We placed lots of cab fresh pouches taped to the coroplast and inside our RV. We also have mouse traps in the camper too along with more cab fresh pouches. We prefer d-con circulator revolving traps that trap the mouse inside the trap instead of spring loaded traditional mice traps that are messy and touchy to set.

Outside we have 3 homemade bucket mouse traps.
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