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Old 12-19-2013, 01:17 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke View Post
I've had tires requiring A LOT of weight to bring them into a balance. The tire guys simply re-broke the bead and spun the carcass around on the rim 180 degrees and Voila! they balanced up perfectly with very little weight. No biggie.

That's for sure. I worked at a tire shop when I was younger back in the 80's and that how we were trained when a tire took a lot of weight.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:00 AM   #32
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Not a tire guy, but my Marathons were balanced and required very little weight. My truck tires have bigger weights.

I seem to remember someone here saying that you can not use the center hole (common practice at most garages) to center the wheel on the spin balancer. There is a "spider" looking adapter that goes into the stud holes that must be used. It is a PITA to install and many garages that mostly do car tires won't take the time.

I will try to find the thread, but it was some time ago.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:35 AM   #33
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Steel trailer rims require using a finger adapter when mounted on the tire balancer. They are stud centric, using the studs to center the rim on the axle. The rims are stamped steel and their center hole is not necessarily concentric. Reputable shops that do tire work should have these adapters, if they know how to use them is another question.
Aluminum rims can be balanced without the adapters as their center hole is concentric due to the manufacturing and machining process; however, if it's a large rim, i.e.16", it would be wise to use the adapter to provide better support when the rim is mounted on the tire balancer.
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:51 AM   #34
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Not to beat a dead horse, tons of threads about the OEM tires offered on new units. IMO it is a problem that could be avoided if the MFG's would put quality tires on at the factory. Anyone actually try to find a trail express or similar tire for replacement? I found one on line back when I was looking for info and the price was less than $50.00! I have heard some numbers on what the tires cost the mfg's while at the hitch hiker factory...most frames cost less than 150.00 for 4 tires!! There are bicycle tires that are more expensive and likely better quality. Are there folks that have had no problem with the OEM tires? Sure, but there are way too many failures for FR to continue to ignore. When I plan on up grading units I will negotiate a better tire into the deal....I would suggest others do the same. Might as well pay up front for a safer tire rather than 200-1000 miles down the road.
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:49 PM   #35
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I was going to buy tire covers, but figured most tires wont last long enough to dry rot anyhow
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Old 12-20-2013, 01:45 AM   #36
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I wonder how many think their N filled tires had the "air" pumped out? My tires have that green valve stem cover too. Ok, I probably just opened a can of worms. So?
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Old 12-20-2013, 06:22 AM   #37
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I wonder how many think their N filled tires had the "air" pumped out? My tires have that green valve stem cover too. Ok, I probably just opened a can of worms. So?
that depends on how it was done. There are machines that will pull it down, partially charge it, pull down again, then fully charge.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:33 AM   #38
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Sort Of

Condensation builds inside the tire and wheel and when the sun hits the outside walls, the heat tries to suck that condensation from inside the tire, bingo, tire rot and cracking from the inside. Our last set of tires on the Sunnybrook were at the six year age limit, sure enough we got on the road with them, great tread still on the tires. There date code was 03' it is not early 2010, think we drove like 96 miles when the first tire blew. Stopped in Kitty Hawk, NC and purchased a brand new set of Continental ten plys: Used the coach one more year, now sits on our deeded lot in N GA. and not moved in three years: Go figure!


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The unknown part is when the unit is being towed from the manufacturer to the dealer. Did the tires hit a lot of pot holes, did the driver strike a curb, and did the driver keep the speeds below 65mph? Also when the unit left the manufacture facility were the tires at the proper pressure? The main cause of tire failure is not keeping your tires covered when not being towed. The sun can and will dry out the tires and cause weather cracks.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:37 AM   #39
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Balancing

We were told that balancing the coach wheels were not necessary as they are aluminum 18" pieces. Never really went along with that idea, thinking before we leave for Alaska next summer to get all balanced off the coach and install the nitrogen!



Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Not a tire guy, but my Marathons were balanced and required very little weight. My truck tires have bigger weights.

I seem to remember someone here saying that you can not use the center hole (common practice at most garages) to center the wheel on the spin balancer. There is a "spider" looking adapter that goes into the stud holes that must be used. It is a PITA to install and many garages that mostly do car tires won't take the time.

I will try to find the thread, but it was some time ago.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:53 AM   #40
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Any info on the ST Provider tires than came on my new 5'ver? If they are a problem I would definitely like to take care of it.
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