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Old 11-16-2018, 12:49 AM   #1
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Should i close ac vents in winter?

Should we close these or leave them open in the winter?

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Old 11-16-2018, 01:21 AM   #2
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Hmmm, never thought about them. Not sure it makes a difference.

I do leave my bathroom vent open a crack. I do have Maxxair vent covers.
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:59 AM   #3
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We just got back from a 4 day trip in our Rockwood 2902WS where the night time temps fell to 26 degrees, days were 40's. We were dry camping/ no hook-ups. Closing the A/C vents made a big differance in comfort and how much the furnace ran. Heat rises, we were not heating the roof. When storing the TT for any period of time, we open a the A/C vents to prevent moisture problems in ducting. We do'not have an Artic Package, the furnace seems Leak/Vent air into the sink cabinet, rear hatches and underbelly I could feel a slight air flow from the 2 vents on underbelly. Going to look into making changes to some of the high heat loss areas. We like to use our rigs in the cool weather while boondocking, without the our small generator the batteries would not have made it thru the second night. The 200 watts of solar were not enough.
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Old 11-16-2018, 10:10 AM   #4
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Unless you heat your rig during storage, I don't believe it matters.

I close mine during furnace season as I don't have the option that some do by setting the thermostat's fan function to Hi or Lo and allowing the A/C fan to distribute warm air. (warm air rises)

So rather than let that warm air that rises, filter its way into the A/C ducts and conduct heat away from the interior and into the roof, I close them when using the furnace. It may be a small gain but with these paper thin R/Vs, every little bit helps.

For storage, everything is the same temperature so it doesn't matter.
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Old 11-16-2018, 10:23 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strgrazr View Post
We just got back from a 4 day trip in our Rockwood 2902WS where the night time temps fell to 26 degrees, days were 40's. We were dry camping/ no hook-ups. Closing the A/C vents made a big differance in comfort and how much the furnace ran. Heat rises, we were not heating the roof. When storing the TT for any period of time, we open a the A/C vents to prevent moisture problems in ducting. We do'not have an Artic Package, the furnace seems Leak/Vent air into the sink cabinet, rear hatches and underbelly I could feel a slight air flow from the 2 vents on underbelly. Going to look into making changes to some of the high heat loss areas. We like to use our rigs in the cool weather while boondocking, without the our small generator the batteries would not have made it thru the second night. The 200 watts of solar were not enough.
If you use your R/V in cooler weather, I don't believe I'd make changes to the ducts to keep the furnace from blowing into the places you mentioned.

That is done by design to keep the plumbing and tanks from being exposed to freezing temperatures. If you NEVER camp where it freezes and it only just gets cold then maybe... but what about the next owner?

A better way to improve your furnace's efficiency is to supplement it with an electric space heater(s). This won't help you when boondocking though unless you use your generator.

In the case of boondocking, we often supplement our furnace with a catalytic heater such as the Mr. Heater type. Saves on battery usage too!
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Old 11-16-2018, 12:01 PM   #6
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I understand the importance of heating certain areas, we are heating outside hatches that don't contain any wet components. The one hatch that contains wet gear-- pump, filter, all wet inlets, water heater is sealed off from furnace heat.
The HW seems to do a good job warming in this area, of course with in reason. I can see the bottom of our kitchen sink thru one hatch, the rear panel stops 6in from top. It seems like maybe piece of paneling was not installed.
Condensation on the hatch doors and with very little forming on widows inside the rig needs to be addressed. Alot of little leaks can sink a big ship. Some foam board on the back of some panels, some spray foam around large piping thru holes, nothing major just attention to details.
There are several posts about RVers having trouble cooling some Rockwoods when temps get over 90, we have experienced this. Correcting these small items may help thru too. We love the quality of build of our rig but as with all RVs the devil is in the details.
My wife has breathing issues when burning unvented propane or that would be my first choice.
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:06 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
I close mine during furnace season as I don't have the option that some do by setting the thermostat's fan function to Hi or Lo and allowing the A/C fan to distribute warm air. (warm air rises)
hmmm... that is an idea. My thermostat is either, heat, fan, ac. So if I used the fan option, I'd need to use space heaters for the primary heat. When it drops below 40, the propane comes on. Hard to stay warm in these thin walled trailers when under 40.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
So rather than let that warm air that rises, filter its way into the A/C ducts and conduct heat away from the interior and into the roof, I close them when using the furnace. It may be a small gain but with these paper thin R/Vs, every little bit helps.
I'm going to agree. We closed all ours.
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