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10-09-2013, 01:49 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 6
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Winterizing
Hi, got a quick question. I have a Flagstaff Travel Trailer (bumper-pull) I'm winterizing myself for the first time. The owners manual says you can add the anti-freeze directly into the fresh water tank then use the on board water pump to move it through the lines. I want to make sure this is ok to do. Everything I read on-line says you should install a water pump kit when doing this but the owners manual doesn't specify to do that. Do I need the kit or not? I was just going to use a hand pump until I read the part in the manual saying to do it through the pump. Thanks.
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10-09-2013, 01:52 PM
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#2
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_N
Hi, got a quick question. I have a Flagstaff Travel Trailer (bumper-pull) I'm winterizing myself for the first time. The owners manual says you can add the anti-freeze directly into the fresh water tank then use the on board water pump to move it through the lines. I want to make sure this is ok to do. Everything I read on-line says you should install a water pump kit when doing this but the owners manual doesn't specify to do that. Do I need the kit or not? I was just going to use a hand pump until I read the part in the manual saying to do it through the pump. Thanks.
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Welcome to the forum!
I would NOT add it to fw tank.
May take up to 8 gallons just to get the pump to suck it up.
Get a winterizing kit from your dealer and pull right from the jug.
Turbs
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10-09-2013, 01:53 PM
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#3
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Such as......
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10-09-2013, 03:53 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 6
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Ok, thanks for the reply!
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10-09-2013, 09:38 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,855
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remember the owners manual is has very little to do with your particular trailer.
it's a generic RV manual that only addresses RV systems overall.
do NOT assume that anything in it, actually applies to your particular RV.
most RV's don't come with the winterizing kit from the factory.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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10-09-2013, 09:53 PM
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#6
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Anacortesians
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 1,166
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If you have a small air compressor, it's much easier to blow the water out of the plumbing then just use a small amount of anti-freeze in the P-traps. I've done it that way for three winters with our current MH.
Drain the water heater, then put the valves into the by-pass configuration. Get a small connector (got mine at Wal-Mart for about $2) that has a garden hose male thread connected to a tire-valve size inlet. Hook that into your city water inlet and connect the compressor line to it.
Set your compressor to an output pressure of about 20 psi, turn it on and open the outlet valve, then go around opening each of the faucets. When they all are just blowing air (don't forget the toilet, outside shower - if you have one, ice maker - if you have one and washing machine - if you have one) then there's no water left in the rig to freeze.
About a cup of the pink stuff in each sink P-trap and down the shower drain will take care of things.
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Frank and Eileen
No longer RVers or FR owners
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10-10-2013, 08:16 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 6
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Thanks everyone for the responses. As it turns out my water pump has a winterizing kit pre-installed on the pump (like the one f1100turbo mentioned) and there's a connector for the anti-freeze on the outside. I turned the valve, pumped in the anti-freeze straight from the jug, after I blew the lines out with the air compressor, of course. I even went a step above and pulled the p-traps, drained the water then put them back in, a trick I learned from winterizing big boats, takes about 15 minutes and insures all the water is out. Camper is now done and ready for storage.
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10-10-2013, 08:35 AM
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#8
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
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Don't forget to make sure the pink stuff makes it through your toilet plumbing. Lost a water valve last year when I forgot to clear them.
__________________
Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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10-10-2013, 08:51 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Eastlake, Ohio
Posts: 463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
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x2. before I run antifreeze throughout the system I like to blow out the lines before hand. Just like everything else, I like to go overboard. For me, it something is going to break it will. I want to make sure there is no water left behind to freeze and break something. Happy Winterizing..
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2014 Wildwood 300BH
2014 Ford Explorer XLT
2011 Ford F350 FX4
Eastlake, OH
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10-17-2013, 09:02 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 14
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I've never winterized a camper before the low point drains is this also a good place to blow out the water?? Also the bypass valve on my water station that says water heater bypass what dose it do??
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10-19-2013, 02:07 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 6
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Re:Winterizing
I opened all the valves (sink and tub) including the low point drains then used the air compressor to drain the lines. The bypass on the water heater does just that, it bypasses the water heater, otherwise you'd end up filling it with anti-freeze. That can get costly as most are 6 gallons. Make sure you pull the drain plug on the water heater to drain the water. I just cleaned the anode rod then put it back in for the winter after it was drained. After the lines were cleared with the air compressor then I closed the valves (and the low point drains) then pumped in anti-freeze. Once the anti-freeze gets pumped in you can open each valve, one at a time, starting with the highest point, open the cold water side first then the hot, until it runs pink. I got lucky because my on-board water pump already had a bypass kit installed so I was able to use the water pump to get the anti-freeze in the lines, otherwise you can buy a hand pump or a water pump bypass kit sold at most RV stores or at camping world on-line. Make sure you open the toilet and let the water turn pink and also pour anti-freeze down the drains to fill the p-traps. I went above and beyond and pulled the p-traps out, drained the water then re-installed them, took about 15 minutes to do the 3 p-traps in my unit.
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10-19-2013, 02:40 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 147
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Anyone have any insight on winterizing the "Black Tank Flush" inlet on a TT? I'm not really sure how I can ensure there is no water left in that system.
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10-19-2013, 03:03 PM
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#13
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHFire 152
Anyone have any insight on winterizing the "Black Tank Flush" inlet on a TT? I'm not really sure how I can ensure there is no water left in that system.
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See if this thread helps- I asked the same question!
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ush-49415.html
__________________
Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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10-20-2013, 07:30 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 147
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That was very helpful! Thank you!!!
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11-08-2013, 04:31 PM
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#15
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Happy Campers
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wardell240
I've never winterized a camper before the low point drains is this also a good place to blow out the water?? Also the bypass valve on my water station that says water heater bypass what dose it do??
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Just what is says! Bypass the water heater valve. When winterizing you need to drain the waterheater. You need to bypass the waterheater during the winterizing and storage process. In the spring you would reset to normal.
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11-08-2013, 05:07 PM
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#16
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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3 valve system in by pass mode.
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11-11-2013, 09:14 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2
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I'm not sure how to turn the knob on the bypass valve, it seems hard to move, is there a trick?
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11-11-2013, 09:42 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2
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Winterizing
In response to my last post, I was able to turn the bypass valve. It was a little hard to turn, I was afraid initially I'd break it but I got it done.
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11-11-2013, 09:50 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 147
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I had the same problem. It was the first time it was used, so that may have something to do with it!
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11-11-2013, 12:26 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 81
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One thing my Dad the plumber has me do is use a wet/dry vac on the sink and shower drains. Just wrap a towel around the nozzle and the drain and remove any standing water, then pour pink down so it isn't diluted. I thought it was overkill until he said -50 antifreeze maybe diluted to half, -25 won't cut it here in MN, where we can see -40 for days on end. Simpler to listen to him than ask him to help me fix shower drain when it's cracked, leaking and extremely hard to access. =)
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2005 Salem LE 19FD
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
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