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Old 07-01-2012, 03:54 PM   #1
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Wiring diagram

Looking for a wiring diagram for a 2007 Lexington 255GTS
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:57 PM   #2
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Looking for a wiring diagram for a 2007 Lexington 255GTS
Best of luck.

They do not publish one for the camper part but the chassis manufacturer does have one (you might have to buy it though).
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:07 PM   #3
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I doubt these will help, but you might be able to figure out what you need.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 30TS_Elect_Schematics.pdf (5.99 MB, 171 views)
File Type: pdf GT370 Electrical Layout.PDF (1.65 MB, 95 views)
File Type: pdf Georgetown-Battery Connect Center.pdf (318.6 KB, 95 views)
File Type: pdf BiDirectional Isolator Relay Delay.pdf (105.0 KB, 74 views)
File Type: pdf Battery Control Center Information -1.pdf (1.34 MB, 104 views)
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:08 PM   #4
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Part 2
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File Type: pdf Battery Control Center Information -2.pdf (400.2 KB, 102 views)
File Type: pdf BCC.pdf (400.2 KB, 87 views)
File Type: pdf Modified Wiring.pdf (28.2 KB, 100 views)
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:48 PM   #5
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Adobe couldn't open any of your files!

Except the modified one!

I switched to 9volt batteries and have a diagram to wire two of them in series but I can't identify the wires inside the MH!
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:18 PM   #6
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I have run into this before. You need to update your "Explorer" and Adobe Reader to the latest versions.
You mean 6 volt, right?
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:50 AM   #7
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dunk05 - Is there something specifically you are looking for or wanting to do? I may have something for you or be able to answer some questions.
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:58 AM   #8
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I just want to install two 6volt batteries correctly! The battery cables from the MH aren't marked and they are all red!
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:45 AM   #9
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I just want to install two 6volt batteries correctly! The battery cables from the MH aren't marked and they are all red!
I think a little more information will help. This usually takes an in-person approach to truly find the correct wiring configuration. If you are unsure how to check with 100% accuracy and your coach isn't capable of being moved then call a mobile RV tech and have them do it.

1. Are the old batteries still connected correctly? Then its easy to ID the neg and pos based on battery terminal.

2. Is it possible to follow the cables? A cable leading to the chassis is negative. The negative battery cable usually doesn't go too far before connecting to the frame.

3. If there are no existing batteries to use as a map and no way to follow the wires, then use your multimeter and check for continuity. Read through your digital multimeter's instructions on how to check for continuity.

Not that you asked, but whatever you do, please don't do the backyard mechanic's "SPARK" test.

Once you ID which is which, make sure to label them correctly and take pictures that you can store in the coach for future reference.
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:05 PM   #10
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OK I found the ground wire and put all three red wires and one with a fuse in it to the plus terminal of the battery! The 12 volt system works now but the fan on the converter box now runs all the time!
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:51 PM   #11
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OK I found the ground wire and put all three red wires and one with a fuse in it to the plus terminal of the battery! The 12 volt system works now but the fan on the converter box now runs all the time!
Your batteries are most likely VERY low and the converter is working overtime trying to charge them.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:29 PM   #12
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That sounds about right. They could be very low depending on how long they sat on the shelf.

Just so you know, it might take very long for these batteries to get to a full state of charge (depending on how big they are).

If you wish, you can continue to try and charge through the converter/charger or use a good three-stage portable charger connected directly to the batteries.

I have two 6-volts that I prefer to charge this way rather than through the converter.
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:26 PM   #13
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With all of the college education in electronics on here, they have neglected to tell you the most important thing. "Don't lick bare wires."
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:26 PM   #14
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Thank You!
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:06 PM   #15
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Start engine and charge with alternator.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:06 PM   #16
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works pretty quick or just drive around a little
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:08 PM   #17
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With all of the college education in electronics on here, they have neglected to tell you the most important thing. "Don't lick bare wires."
Haven,t done that in a long time. Have been an electrician since 1955. I only grab 440 volts with bare hands. Only once
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:14 PM   #18
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works pretty quick or just drive around a little
While you might think this works, you will never get more than 5 or 10% capacity replacement doing this. The voltage will mostly recover quickly but the capacity takes a lot of time.

Ignoring the tapering off of charging current as the voltage comes up (the alternator is a single stage charger) and say "on average" the alternator charges at an average 7 amps (if does NOT as on average it is MUCH less); it will take OVER 10 HOURS of "driving around" to charge up a 75 amp hour coach battery.

The physics is complicated but here are some charts to provide the visuals.
Attached Thumbnails
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Name:	battery voltage and capacity Curve.jpg
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ID:	19764   Click image for larger version

Name:	Charge Chart.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	33.6 KB
ID:	19766  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Automobile Alternators as Chargers.pdf (805.9 KB, 15 views)
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:54 PM   #19
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I am now plugged in to 115 volts...should charge batteries by tomorrow?
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:44 PM   #20
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I am now plugged in to 115 volts...should charge batteries by tomorrow?
It has been my experience (using the capacity meter built into my TM-2025-RV battery monitor system) that over night on the converter will bring your battery up to about 90% capacity. It will take about 3 days on the converter (total) to bring it up to 100%.

This is due to the "Float Mode" of the converter reducing the charging amperage to less than 1 amp for the "top off" - Trickle Charge stage.
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