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Old 08-26-2014, 09:15 AM   #11
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That is my guess also. There may be a problem with the connection from the TV.
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:23 AM   #12
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Would it be okay to travel with propane on while on an auto ferry. This is how we always travel to escape from Long Island.
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:42 AM   #13
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Would it be okay to travel with propane on while on an auto ferry. This is how we always travel to escape from Long Island.
I would check with ferry regulations.
I believe youroo has traveled by ferry he may know.

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Old 08-26-2014, 10:17 AM   #14
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Would it be okay to travel with propane on while on an auto ferry. This is how we always travel to escape from Long Island.
I am pretty sure that the Ferry would require it off. But, your 12vdc fridge is a power hog! I am reading the instructions for Dometic 3 way fridges (https://www.dometic.com/4e0e2322-4af...1478e943.fodoc) and it states to use a 30 amp fuse and 10 gauge wire up to 17 feet and 8 gauge for up to 27 feet.
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:26 AM   #15
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Be serious, if there isn't a regulation yet for propane on ferry travel, some gov't bureaucrat probably lost his place, in writting it, from too many coffee and donut breaks!
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:57 AM   #16
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I am pretty sure that the Ferry would require it off. But, your 12vdc fridge is a power hog! I am reading the instructions for Dometic 3 way fridges (https://www.dometic.com/4e0e2322-4af...1478e943.fodoc) and it states to use a 30 amp fuse and 10 gauge wire up to 17 feet and 8 gauge for up to 27 feet.
I've think you have identified the wrong model fridge for a pop-up. The diagrams show a control panel on the front of the fridge, which is not feasible on a PUP (or A-frame). With the camper folded down, the fridge controls have to be accessed from an outside hatch, typically at the rear of the fridge.

That said, the model linked to has a 150 watt DC heater, which means about 12.5 amps at 12 volts. A hefty load to be sure, but most PUP fridge have DC elements that are less than 100 watts (8 amps or less). The DC element wattage of the actual installed fridge is the figure of interest - the tow vehicle and camper wiring must support BOTH the fridge DC current (element wattage divided by 12 volts) and current needed to recharge the battery with very minimal voltage loss.

Wire from the alternator to the back of the tow vehicle (and the ground wires) should be at least 12 gauge, and preferably 10 gauge or better. These will provide enough current to run the fridge on DC without draining the battery. If you can make the voltage drop small enough with the current flowing, the camper battery will actually charge while towing.

just my experiences
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:12 PM   #17
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I've think you have identified the wrong model fridge for a pop-up. The diagrams show a control panel on the front of the fridge, which is not feasible on a PUP (or A-frame). With the camper folded down, the fridge controls have to be accessed from an outside hatch, typically at the rear of the fridge.

That said, the model linked to has a 150 watt DC heater, which means about 12.5 amps at 12 volts. A hefty load to be sure, but most PUP fridge have DC elements that are less than 100 watts (8 amps or less). The DC element wattage of the actual installed fridge is the figure of interest - the tow vehicle and camper wiring must support BOTH the fridge DC current (element wattage divided by 12 volts) and current needed to recharge the battery with very minimal voltage loss.

Wire from the alternator to the back of the tow vehicle (and the ground wires) should be at least 12 gauge, and preferably 10 gauge or better. These will provide enough current to run the fridge on DC without draining the battery. If you can make the voltage drop small enough with the current flowing, the camper battery will actually charge while towing.

just my experiences
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I did a quick google, and this was at the top of the list. It looked good.
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:26 PM   #18
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Pgandw, not necessarily so, my pup fridge has a control panel on the front of the fridge......
But I am fortunate that I can access the fridge with the top down (one of the reasons we got this model)....
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:00 PM   #19
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Pgandw, not necessarily so, my pup fridge has a control panel on the front of the fridge......
But I am fortunate that I can access the fridge with the top down (one of the reasons we got this model)....
As the high wall PUPs continue to get larger and larger, they come closer and closer to full TT in their systems. The guidance for simple PUP systems no longer applies, which is why I try to remember to say "typically" or use similar weasel words.

I admit I'm left behind talking about PUPs that have black water tanks and toilets beyond Porta-potties, PUPs that have thermostatic controls on their larger refridgerators (some even have freezers now), and so on.

I'm still in a world of PUP campers that can be easily towed by a 6 cylinder SUV or minivan (3,500lb tow ratings), that can be stored in a garage without issue, where the fridges run continuously with manual adjustment, and gray water is a 5 gal bucket at the end of the hose leading from the external sink drain.

Not knocking the up-scaling at all....just that we are at the point in our lives (last child just off to college) where downsizing and keeping everything as simple and convenient as possible is the better choice for us.

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Old 08-26-2014, 01:17 PM   #20
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Yeah l hear ya, I was surprised when I learned of the HW, I still had the old pups in my mind when we were shopping for our camper. even though I am at a similar stage on life, I kinds like all the stuff that comes on them these days though I still refuse to deal with the black tank, so that part remains unused. Lol

Oh, and my fridge does have a small freezer
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