1992 Flagstaff - 8ft Project

[92_Flagstaff]

08-30-2009

[92_Flagstaff]

08-30-2009

I still don't have the bulb seal, screw cover, or corner caps but I wanted to get that roof back on. Lucky for me, my family helped me lift the roof back up onto the trailer. Installation went well, and everything seems to fit okay. I still need to tweak the roof height adjustments a bit to get things level, but its all within 3/4' or so.

Canvas re-installation was quick & easy. Door location required a bit of tweaking, and its best to leave that until after all other camper adjustments are done.

As of last night, I was re-assembled. My daughter and grabbed a couple of blankets & pillows and proceeded to watch a movie in there last night.



Hard to see the patch job with the sunlight.



Some interior shots...





More to follow...

[92_Flagstaff]

08-30-2009

Tonight I picked up a 'broken' fridge, to replace the icebox. Its an older Tedco model, probably about 1.7 cu.ft. Will only require small modification to the framing to make it fit.

Advertised for 60 as-is.

Tedco 3way Camper Fridge
Price: $60.00
Date Listed: 06-Aug-09
Tedco Camper Fridge - Non Working (not sure of problem was like that when i bought the trailer)
Excellent Cosmetic condition
22" high x 19" wide, approx 17" deep

I got it for $25 and took a chance.

Here's what it looks like.

[92_Flagstaff]

08-30-2009

Its a little rusty on the back. Not sure how best to clean up the tubing. Rust/scale probably isn't the best for optimum cooling circuit...lol



I hooked it up to 110V AC, and surprisingly it works!

Someone mentioned using a remote thermometer inside the fridge to test it, and I just happen to have one. Here's the plot, just over three hours and the temp dropped from about 68° down to 34.5°. Just sitting on the work bench, so air flow it not optimum. I believe that suggests the cooling medium is well charged and not blocked.



I need to get a fitting to test the propane mode. I'm sure it needs to be cleaned out.

[92_Flagstaff]

08-31-2009

Had a look this morning, and the fridge was down to around 19°F or so after running all night on 110V AC. My package from Forrest River arrived today with my warranty replacement lift tube, along with the bulb seal, screw cover strip, and four corner cap pieces.

The roof bulb seal was in a 50ft roll, and relatively easy to install. It just slides into the aluminum extrusions along the bottom of the roof, all four sides. The corner caps weren't installed, which made it a quick job. Looks fantastic.

The screw insert was even easier to install, again it came in a 50ft roll. Replaced both sides along the roofline and down the front and rear edges. The original screw insert was cracked in quite a few spots and I believe it was a major contributer to the roof damage, allowing water to run in the trim and then into the screw holes. I put a blob of butyl tape into each screw hole and ran the screw up and down before installing the aluminum trim this time. Works great to seal all the screw threads. Teh new insert is added insurance.

Roof Bulb Seal


Screw Insert


Both installed


The corner caps they sent are the newer style. They probably don't make the old style any longer. They won't fit the squared off profile of my roof, so I improvised. A hacksaw and some rotary tool sanding came in handy.

Old style cap on the bottom left, new style on the right.

[92_Flagstaff]

08-31-2009

Won't fit


Cut to size


These aren't the appropriate screws, but its test fitted. I think it will be fine.


I'll need to do a lot of final caulking around all of the joint surfaces, but I am really happy with how the roof is fitting. Its extra tight on both sides, and only a small gap in the front which the bulb seal is dealing with just fine.

I hooked up the fridge to a 12V battery charger tonight. Tonight's graph shows the fridge coolig down nicely, and surprisingly it seems to be cooling at the same rates (slope of the line through data points is similar to the 110V test. Started out a bit warmer today, but its down to 44°F right now and still humming along. 12V data points are on the top, and 110V data points are shown on the bottom.

[92_Flagstaff]

08-31-2009

Can I run this fridge using a tee from the pup stove line? I'm assuming this stove is low pressure, having quick disconnects. Is the fridge meant for low pressure as well?



Getting closer. Hopefully we'll be camping this coming weekend!

[92_Flagstaff]

09-01-2009

Today I stopped in at the local RV shop and was hoping to get a set of exterior louvres. Unfortunately they didn't have them in stock, but he's going to get them for me. Essentially they are the basic metal louvres, Dometic brand I believe. 19-1/2" wide.

While there, I took the opportunity to look at a couple of pups they had on the lot, to get a better visual understanding of how to hook up the fridge.

Here's an example of similar louvres that I am looking to buy.



Some newer models have plastic versions.



I opened up the hinged access doors and can see exactly what I need to do now.

Tonight is the propane test. I disconnected the main line running from the tongue to the frame, and connected it directly to the fridge. Fridge burner lit fine.



I'm a bit puzzled by its performance though, as it seems slower to get the temperature down than when using electrical heating elements. The flame is blue, but small. I'm not sure how big it should be. The tubing seems even hotter with propane, but the temperature is just getting to 55°F now, after about 2-1/2 hrs operating. I'm sure it will cool down fine eventually, but everything I've read suggested it would be most effective on propane. If anyone has suggestions/ideas I'm all ears. I figure if the orifice was plugged I would have a yellow flame, or it would have been hard to light. Not the case here. [?:~{]

[92_Flagstaff]

09-01-2009

I went to our local hardware/lumber store to get 3/8" diameter 'G' class tubing, and was able to get one flare connector. The didn't have a Tee fitting, and had no idea where I could get one. Ideas?? They didn't have the 45° flaring tool either. I'd like to find a tee fitting and a 90° fitting for the connection right at the fridge itself. Hope I can find them.

While there I picked up a 10ft roll of 20" wide aluminum flashing, which should be good to make the baffles and rear fridge skirting.

I'll revise the updated temperature plot, once the temperature falls down below 40°.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-06-2009

That next morning, the temps weren't down to below 40°F , so there must be inadequate flame or a blockage in the flue. The flue and baffle swirly thing looked clean at first glance, but I'll investigate further and post my findings. I've read several burner clean out tips previously, and will tackle that this week. I'm confident it will eventually work fine.

Fellow didn't call me back about the vents yet, but it is the metal ones I'm seeking.

I found the tee fitting, tubing cutter, and some reflectix material last week at Home Depot. I also borrowed a flare tool from work.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-06-2009

I booked a campsite last Thursday, packed up the family, and headed for Earl Rowe provincial park for 3 nights. While I couldn't reserve an electrical site, I was able to switch to an electric site once we arrived. No refrigerator with us as it wasn't installed yet.



Temps were quite cool at night, so glad we had a portable ceramic heater. This 8ft camper is small, but suited us just fine. A portable toilet always comes with us, to make sure the ladies are comfortable and don;t have to face the bears at night...lol No table in the trailer, yet. Its on the list.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-06-2009



This picture below is just some Canadian humor We love our Tim Horton's coffee. Yes, I still use an old Coleman camp fuel stove. Its part of the experience of camping for me.



This is my 'roof renovation helper' getting some guidance from one of the park rangers during one of the organized children's programs.



A great test of the camper, although we had no rain. I still have some final sealing to do, so that's probably a good thing.

I hope to progress this week with the fridge. Plan is to clean it, get it working, then start cutting into the trailer to make it fit. I'm sure I can get the vents this week, and don't want to cut any holes until I have them in my hand as a template.

Anyone ever cut an awning down to size? The awning that came with this trailer is 10ft long, and the trailer is 8ft. I'd rather cut it down to make it fit proper. It has the aluminum cross bar, and folding/sliding aluminum legs on the two front corners. All of which rolls up into a zippered bag.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-07-2009

Today I kept moving ahead a little. Last day before school starts for the kids!

The left wheel was a victim of rust and wasn't helping the appearance of the trailer. I just happened to have bought a new wheel for my boat trailer a few weeks ago, and it fits the pup better. Boat trailer is rusty regardless. While doing so I cleaned up and greased the bearings on both sides, and shot a bit of black paint in that area to clean it up a bit. Wire wheeling the lug nuts was the icing on the cake.





Moving ahead with the fridge, I decided that while cleaning it I might just as well remove the cooling circuit from the fridge compartment all together. Just a few screws and wire connections and it slid right out.



That should allow me to clean up the fridge. It has a bit of corrosion in the lower sections that needs repair. I'll probably epoxy the bad areas to slow down the corrosion. A quick coat of paint should make it look like new again.

I can't believe how small that orifice in the LPG line is. Surprising it gets any flame at all.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-07-2009

I dismantled the orifice and burner. Cleaned them out, then decided it would look better polished up a bit.



I'm a bit disappointed, as I think I may have broken the flame sensing thermocouple when I was trying to release the burner gas fitting. The thermocouple has a copper sheathing (very thin) around a solid core wire. The thin sheathing has a crack in it now. I'm hoping that the remaining copper tube will provide the electrical circuit requirements to function properly, else I may be searching for a hard-to-find replacement part. uh-oh.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-08-2009

I found a generic 18" thermocouple ($7) today that might work. Had to re-drill the mounting hole to fit, but it seems good and solid and position in the flame (I hope).



Bad news is the other end of the thermocouple which screws into the valve is fine thread. Seems my vintage fridge uses a course thread, and they're not typical. I'll be re-tapping the valve cover tomorrow to accept the fine thread. Hopefully it goes okay, else I may have a 2-way fridge now.



My vent covers came in today as well. They're inexpensive and should work just fine.



That's about it for today's update.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-11-2009

Still plugging away. Successfully re-tapped the threads on the thermocouple and it functions properly with the electromagnet again.



The fridge is in several pieces and I'm working on the cosmetics (yes, probably no good reason to do it) as I wanted to slow down some of the rust. Fluid circuit has been sanded as much as possible and painted black (BBQ paint).



Some of the rear panel has been sanded and test-painted with white appliance paint.



I've laid a layer of metal epoxy in this rusted area and it should suffice once it cures. Probably need a few layers.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-11-2009

Some miscellaneous sheet metal getting some paint while I'm at it.



Might be in a position to re-assemble the fridge tomorrow.

I have most of the parts I need to install it finally. We'll see if this weekend allows the time to get started on it.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-12-2009

Fridge re-assembly went reasonably well. No major issues.

This was just a cosmetic overhaul. Painted the exterior with Krylon Appliance Epoxy Paint.

I think these before/after show an improvement.







Tested the electrical performance and it appeared okay. I have it on propane right now. Cooling down from 62°F. We'll see if there is an improvement. Flame doesn't look much bigger than before. Maybe.

[92_Flagstaff]

09-12-2009

[92_Flagstaff]

09-13-2009

Today's mission was to see if I could make the fridge fit in the trailer. Weather has been unusually pleasant this past week; good for outside projects.

This morning the fridge was in the mid-30's after running all night on propane. It still doesn't cool as fast as the 120V, but it gets there. That's all that matters for now.

The location of the fridge means that the vent holes I cut will remove the logos on the left rear of the pup. Not much I can do about that.



To begin the installation I needed to remove the icebox, fold-over sink, and the cabinet in that corner. Not too hard...just a few screws.



The conduit running front to rear for the lift mechanism will be exposed after I cut the side wall out. There is a 120V wiring that I'll need to be aware of as well. I am going to tap into this later for a surface mount outlet to run the fridge. There appears to be anough slack in the wires to accomplish that.



I test fit the fridge in position, and measure where I need to cut the front fascia panelling back to allow it to fit. The counter is factory curved to allow access to the fridge door lock. This fridge is very similar to the Dometic and Norcold versions in that regard. Lucky for me.