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Old 09-20-2009, 02:52 PM   #21
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:53 PM   #22
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I still don't have the bulb seal, screw cover, or corner caps but I wanted to get that roof back on. Lucky for me, my family helped me lift the roof back up onto the trailer. Installation went well, and everything seems to fit okay. I still need to tweak the roof height adjustments a bit to get things level, but its all within 3/4' or so.

Canvas re-installation was quick & easy. Door location required a bit of tweaking, and its best to leave that until after all other camper adjustments are done.

As of last night, I was re-assembled. My daughter and grabbed a couple of blankets & pillows and proceeded to watch a movie in there last night.



Hard to see the patch job with the sunlight.



Some interior shots...





More to follow...
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:54 PM   #23
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Tonight I picked up a 'broken' fridge, to replace the icebox. Its an older Tedco model, probably about 1.7 cu.ft. Will only require small modification to the framing to make it fit.

Advertised for 60 as-is.

Quote:
Tedco 3way Camper Fridge
Price: $60.00
Date Listed: 06-Aug-09
Tedco Camper Fridge - Non Working (not sure of problem was like that when i bought the trailer)
Excellent Cosmetic condition
22" high x 19" wide, approx 17" deep
I got it for $25 and took a chance.

Here's what it looks like.




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Old 09-20-2009, 02:55 PM   #24
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Its a little rusty on the back. Not sure how best to clean up the tubing. Rust/scale probably isn't the best for optimum cooling circuit...lol



I hooked it up to 110V AC, and surprisingly it works!

Someone mentioned using a remote thermometer inside the fridge to test it, and I just happen to have one. Here's the plot, just over three hours and the temp dropped from about 68 down to 34.5. Just sitting on the work bench, so air flow it not optimum. I believe that suggests the cooling medium is well charged and not blocked.



I need to get a fitting to test the propane mode. I'm sure it needs to be cleaned out.
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:56 PM   #25
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Had a look this morning, and the fridge was down to around 19F or so after running all night on 110V AC. My package from Forrest River arrived today with my warranty replacement lift tube, along with the bulb seal, screw cover strip, and four corner cap pieces.

The roof bulb seal was in a 50ft roll, and relatively easy to install. It just slides into the aluminum extrusions along the bottom of the roof, all four sides. The corner caps weren't installed, which made it a quick job. Looks fantastic.

The screw insert was even easier to install, again it came in a 50ft roll. Replaced both sides along the roofline and down the front and rear edges. The original screw insert was cracked in quite a few spots and I believe it was a major contributer to the roof damage, allowing water to run in the trim and then into the screw holes. I put a blob of butyl tape into each screw hole and ran the screw up and down before installing the aluminum trim this time. Works great to seal all the screw threads. Teh new insert is added insurance.

Roof Bulb Seal


Screw Insert


Both installed


The corner caps they sent are the newer style. They probably don't make the old style any longer. They won't fit the squared off profile of my roof, so I improvised. A hacksaw and some rotary tool sanding came in handy.

Old style cap on the bottom left, new style on the right.
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:57 PM   #26
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Won't fit


Cut to size


These aren't the appropriate screws, but its test fitted. I think it will be fine.


I'll need to do a lot of final caulking around all of the joint surfaces, but I am really happy with how the roof is fitting. Its extra tight on both sides, and only a small gap in the front which the bulb seal is dealing with just fine.

I hooked up the fridge to a 12V battery charger tonight. Tonight's graph shows the fridge coolig down nicely, and surprisingly it seems to be cooling at the same rates (slope of the line through data points is similar to the 110V test. Started out a bit warmer today, but its down to 44F right now and still humming along. 12V data points are on the top, and 110V data points are shown on the bottom.

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Old 09-20-2009, 02:57 PM   #27
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Can I run this fridge using a tee from the pup stove line? I'm assuming this stove is low pressure, having quick disconnects. Is the fridge meant for low pressure as well?



Getting closer. Hopefully we'll be camping this coming weekend!
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:58 PM   #28
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Today I stopped in at the local RV shop and was hoping to get a set of exterior louvres. Unfortunately they didn't have them in stock, but he's going to get them for me. Essentially they are the basic metal louvres, Dometic brand I believe. 19-1/2" wide.

While there, I took the opportunity to look at a couple of pups they had on the lot, to get a better visual understanding of how to hook up the fridge.

Here's an example of similar louvres that I am looking to buy.



Some newer models have plastic versions.



I opened up the hinged access doors and can see exactly what I need to do now.

Tonight is the propane test. I disconnected the main line running from the tongue to the frame, and connected it directly to the fridge. Fridge burner lit fine.



I'm a bit puzzled by its performance though, as it seems slower to get the temperature down than when using electrical heating elements. The flame is blue, but small. I'm not sure how big it should be. The tubing seems even hotter with propane, but the temperature is just getting to 55F now, after about 2-1/2 hrs operating. I'm sure it will cool down fine eventually, but everything I've read suggested it would be most effective on propane. If anyone has suggestions/ideas I'm all ears. I figure if the orifice was plugged I would have a yellow flame, or it would have been hard to light. Not the case here. [?:~{]

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Old 09-20-2009, 02:58 PM   #29
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I went to our local hardware/lumber store to get 3/8" diameter 'G' class tubing, and was able to get one flare connector. The didn't have a Tee fitting, and had no idea where I could get one. Ideas?? They didn't have the 45 flaring tool either. I'd like to find a tee fitting and a 90 fitting for the connection right at the fridge itself. Hope I can find them.

While there I picked up a 10ft roll of 20" wide aluminum flashing, which should be good to make the baffles and rear fridge skirting.

I'll revise the updated temperature plot, once the temperature falls down below 40.

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Old 09-20-2009, 02:59 PM   #30
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That next morning, the temps weren't down to below 40F , so there must be inadequate flame or a blockage in the flue. The flue and baffle swirly thing looked clean at first glance, but I'll investigate further and post my findings. I've read several burner clean out tips previously, and will tackle that this week. I'm confident it will eventually work fine.

Fellow didn't call me back about the vents yet, but it is the metal ones I'm seeking.

I found the tee fitting, tubing cutter, and some reflectix material last week at Home Depot. I also borrowed a flare tool from work.
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