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Old 08-13-2019, 04:48 PM   #11
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Join Date: Aug 2019
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You guys are super awesome. Thanks for all the help! We popped it up and broke it down a few times this weekend and are falling to a system now. We'll be taking it out this weekend to a state park to try her out somewhere other than our driveway so wish us luck.

We'll be calling camping world and asking to speak to a manager tonight. You should see the laundry list of what they missed or what wasn't taken care of before they just packed the camper up and told us to take it home.

I'll be warning people against camping world from here on out.
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Old 08-13-2019, 05:47 PM   #12
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Texas
Posts: 101
Lightbulb

I should have added the following and consider this a *WARNING*

When you are tearing it down and before you push the bunk ends in make SURE to have the tent fabric for the slideout hanging outside of the camper and not falling inside the frame *yet*.

I can attest to what happens if you don't. I bought a 2016 228D used but in excellent shape. I was very confused as to why the slideout tent was attached all the way around with ALL Velcro on ours. I finally figured out that it had been poorly repaired and am still in the process of properly repairing it.

During my time with the camper I figured out how the previous owner did it. They slid the bunks in with the fabric for the slideout hanging inside the frame and ripped it right off. I nearly did the same myself after I permanently affixed the fabric again.

The bunk rails will catch said fabric if its draped/hanging inside the frame while trying to slide past and I didn't even notice when I was tearing the cheap repair fabric (again).

What I do when closing the unit is slide in the dinette, grab the fabric and pull it do its all hanging outside and make sure the none of it catches while slowly closing. It helps to have someone watching there.


*Other* things we didn't know:

The two roof lift safety supports fit nicely under the front (king) bunk mattress. Put them under the mattress about two feet from from the inside edge while standing at the camper door. Keep them facing each other (where they kind of look like facing parenthesis) so no sharp edges can get a hold of the mattress.

The two under bunk black supports also can go under their respective mattresses as well as the bunk tent support poles. Place the slideout tent support pole under the rear (queen) mattress.

You should be able to access all those under mattress items from the doorway while its still closed and the roof is up.

The outdoor grill and table should fit inside the "trunk" compartment when you lift the seat cushion off and the wooden cover. Put the table in first then the grill on top and it should fit fine. Place it as close to the inner door as possible so there is lots of room between it and the outer door.

There is a water filter under the sink. You access it by taking off the little square wooden cover above the electrical converter box (under the sink area). Its made from clear plastic polycarb. That filter will SHATTER if frozen with water in it. It will cost you about $50 to replace. That weird white plastic thing with a handle on it (kind of looks like a small tennis racket with no strings) is for sliding over it and tightening/loosening it.

That weird little orangish/clear tool that looks like an Alan wrench on one end is for settings the limits on the lift motor. You get to those setting screws under the lift motor plastic cover. You should not need to do that any time soon.

All of the inside/outside 110 plugs are on one 15amp circuit breaker in the electric panel.

The Battery is REQUIRED to operate the roof lift system. It DOES NOT run off the 30 amp 110V RV plug.

Disconnect the battery when not in use. It will DRAIN continuously when connected.

The hot water heater holds 6 gallons of water. DRAIN it in the winter. There is a plug under the outside cover at the bottom that is also the anode rod. I drain mine after each use as the water in the tank will eat the anode.

The "low point drains" are also inside that compartment where the water filter is. Look for them at the end of the red/blue PEX hoses that run front to back inside that compartment. Mine pull upwards, but I don't know if yours would be the same. Drain them in winter. READ UP on winterizing the camper so you don't loose any plumbing due to freeze!

Be sure to read the maintenance directions.
Grease the Goshen lift system underneath and if you have the wheel bearings that can be greased by popping the cap off the hub then get that too.
WAX the body twice a year with RV/Boat wax.
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:37 PM   #13
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Posts: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyerdp View Post
I should have added the following and consider this a *WARNING*

When you are tearing it down and before you push the bunk ends in make SURE to have the tent fabric for the slideout hanging outside of the camper and not falling inside the frame *yet*.

I can attest to what happens if you don't. I bought a 2016 228D used but in excellent shape. I was very confused as to why the slideout tent was attached all the way around with ALL Velcro on ours. I finally figured out that it had been poorly repaired and am still in the process of properly repairing it.

During my time with the camper I figured out how the previous owner did it. They slid the bunks in with the fabric for the slideout hanging inside the frame and ripped it right off. I nearly did the same myself after I permanently affixed the fabric again.

The bunk rails will catch said fabric if its draped/hanging inside the frame while trying to slide past and I didn't even notice when I was tearing the cheap repair fabric (again).

What I do when closing the unit is slide in the dinette, grab the fabric and pull it do its all hanging outside and make sure the none of it catches while slowly closing. It helps to have someone watching there.


*Other* things we didn't know:

The two roof lift safety supports fit nicely under the front (king) bunk mattress. Put them under the mattress about two feet from from the inside edge while standing at the camper door. Keep them facing each other (where they kind of look like facing parenthesis) so no sharp edges can get a hold of the mattress.

The two under bunk black supports also can go under their respective mattresses as well as the bunk tent support poles. Place the slideout tent support pole under the rear (queen) mattress.

You should be able to access all those under mattress items from the doorway while its still closed and the roof is up.

The outdoor grill and table should fit inside the "trunk" compartment when you lift the seat cushion off and the wooden cover. Put the table in first then the grill on top and it should fit fine. Place it as close to the inner door as possible so there is lots of room between it and the outer door.

There is a water filter under the sink. You access it by taking off the little square wooden cover above the electrical converter box (under the sink area). Its made from clear plastic polycarb. That filter will SHATTER if frozen with water in it. It will cost you about $50 to replace. That weird white plastic thing with a handle on it (kind of looks like a small tennis racket with no strings) is for sliding over it and tightening/loosening it.

That weird little orangish/clear tool that looks like an Alan wrench on one end is for settings the limits on the lift motor. You get to those setting screws under the lift motor plastic cover. You should not need to do that any time soon.

All of the inside/outside 110 plugs are on one 15amp circuit breaker in the electric panel.

The Battery is REQUIRED to operate the roof lift system. It DOES NOT run off the 30 amp 110V RV plug.

Disconnect the battery when not in use. It will DRAIN continuously when connected.

The hot water heater holds 6 gallons of water. DRAIN it in the winter. There is a plug under the outside cover at the bottom that is also the anode rod. I drain mine after each use as the water in the tank will eat the anode.

The "low point drains" are also inside that compartment where the water filter is. Look for them at the end of the red/blue PEX hoses that run front to back inside that compartment. Mine pull upwards, but I don't know if yours would be the same. Drain them in winter. READ UP on winterizing the camper so you don't loose any plumbing due to freeze!

Be sure to read the maintenance directions.
Grease the Goshen lift system underneath and if you have the wheel bearings that can be greased by popping the cap off the hub then get that too.
WAX the body twice a year with RV/Boat wax.
This is extensive and I greatly appreciate it.

I will say though, your suggestion about the dinette canvas was a few days too late. Already pulled some of the canvas out of it's track, maybe 6 inches worth. We didn't damage it beyond repair though and it's a mistake we will NEVER make again.

The advice about the supports and poles is good. I had already stuck the bunk canvas poles under the beds and we've been putting the bunk support poles into the cabinet in the dinette because we have the outside access to it but the two safety supports don't fit in there and I don't like them sitting on the tile in the camper, I don't want them to scratch anything.

We didn't get a manual for the camper so I don't have much maintenance readings except for some of the individual things that come in the camper.

We don't know how to use the fridge, they didn't show us.

We also don't know how to use the toilet.

You've given so much good information that I read to my husband, he's very grateful. This had to take you a good bit of time to write up so thank you again for your help!
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:39 PM   #14
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 10
We contacted Camping World yesterday and requested to talk to a manger. We told him that we were rather disappointed in our visit. He apologized and told us they they pride them self on their customer service and they want to make it right.

We'll see if they get back to me.
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:12 PM   #15
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Texas
Posts: 101
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesandjulie View Post
This is extensive and I greatly appreciate it.

I will say though, your suggestion about the dinette canvas was a few days too late. Already pulled some of the canvas out of it's track, maybe 6 inches worth. We didn't damage it beyond repair though and it's a mistake we will NEVER make again.

The advice about the supports and poles is good. I had already stuck the bunk canvas poles under the beds and we've been putting the bunk support poles into the cabinet in the dinette because we have the outside access to it but the two safety supports don't fit in there and I don't like them sitting on the tile in the camper, I don't want them to scratch anything.

We didn't get a manual for the camper so I don't have much maintenance readings except for some of the individual things that come in the camper.

We don't know how to use the fridge, they didn't show us.

We also don't know how to use the toilet.

You've given so much good information that I read to my husband, he's very grateful. This had to take you a good bit of time to write up so thank you again for your help!
Not a problem, happy to offer our insight as we have learned quite a bit in a few short months.

Sorry about the fabric :/ It was a painful lesson for us too. Fortunately I am awaiting new material from the manufacturer of the tent ... T.J. Snuggles (no kidding). Our damage was to the poor repair job material. Did you tear the tent fabric? or just pull the keder out of the plastic holder (thats the material with the "bulb" on the end that goes in the plastic track)? Did you tear the plastic track? I know where to get it all now The plastic track is a whopping $3.30 from Forest river before shipping.

I knew I forgot to include something... the toilet. There is a little odd shaped green funnel that is part of the fill for the "flush". On my camper it was inside the toilet systems outer door which is in front of the campers actual door. It looks like another "trunk" door on the outside of the camper. The "Cassette" slides out when you pull on the green lever on the bottom to release it. It will roll right out when released. It has a plastic piece with a green cap that can be rotated to better "pour" from to dump waste. Inside that door, once the cassette is removed is another tube that can be swung out near the top. It also has a cap. Remove that cap and seat the funnel on the tube to fill flush water. If you don't have the funnel on it you will NOT get it full.

To use the toilet, there is a Curved handle next to the seat. That opens the "valve" on the cassette to let waste in to the cassette. The little blue button pumps flush water. We have only ever used our "shoilet" for #1 type business. The recommended method I have seen is to do your business, then open the valve and hit the button then close it quickly. This will prevent odors from rising out of the tank while doing your business. I am not sure I would follow that advice for other business.

On that note I have found Happy camper products do very well at eliminating waste odor for us:

https://www.amazon.com/Happy-Campers...=fsclp_pl_dp_2

There is a smaller version than this for about 1/2 the price. It will last a few years if you only go out monthly in the camper. Their website recommends using some sort of shaker to "sprinkle" on the waste before flushing for cassette toilets but I just put a 1/2 scoop in the tank and 2 quarts of water and its been just fine instead of doing that.

There would not have been "A" manual. There are multiple books for everything. The individual we bought from had them all in a brown zippered bag that had the Forest River name on it. I have all of my manuals digitized. I was able to find most of them online by searching model numbers. I had the benefit of the publication number too so I searched on that as well though. They exist for everything from the water heater to the "air" heater, thermostat etc...

As far as the refrigerator. On the outside of the camper in front of the slideout are two door covers that look like big vents. The lower one gets you to the refrigerator controls. There are two retainers on the bottom two corners. There is a slot in the middle of the retainer. Turn the slotted part so the slot goes up and down and you can just pull that cover off. The refrigerator has 3 controls. Gas, electric 110V and Electric 12V. The small green switch has it running off 12V. The big red switch is 110V. The round knob next to the igniter is propane. On mine you turn the propane knob on, and push the button down to start gas flow. Then press the igniter button rapidly to get the gas to light. There should be a warning label that warns to only use one power source at a time between the 3, GAS, 110V or 12V. There is a little round window to the right that has a cover that can be pushed aside to see if its burning but it can be hard to see in outside light :/ Don't expect miracles out of the refrigerator either I was only able to get in to the 30 degree temp range with an add on outside fan I made up myself and an inside fan to circulate air. BE SURE to properly re-secure those door covers. Lightly tug on them to make sure they won't come out when you think you have them back in right. If they are not secure they will fall out during travel and cost about $40-$50 to replace. We fortunately didn't loose ours but saw them online for those prices.

If you don't want to search for manuals or can't find them all and if you would like I can zip mine up and share but keep in mind they are for a camper that is 3 years older so everything may not match up.
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