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Old 05-12-2014, 07:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfskinner View Post
and when you check the water levels be sure to use "distilled" water.....
I was told to use holy water. That's probably why my batts last forever.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:22 PM   #12
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battery disconnect

I noticed the power lift switch is not protected- so I am thinking when the pup is closed an accidental turning on will damage lift system? For good measure I am keeping positive lead disconnected from battery. Like my boat battery, I plan on charging before heading out each trip. Anybody figure out a way to disable switch to prevent accidental switching? Sorry I am an official rookie.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:30 PM   #13
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You could make it part of a disconnect switch; add a fuse inline from the circuit breaker (at the battery B+ post) and the motor and remove the fuse when not in use, or as you are doing, disconnect it from the battery. (I just remove the batteries.)
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:50 PM   #14
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Dealer told me if it's sitting longer than a week to disconnect the negative.

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Old 05-16-2014, 08:09 AM   #15
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batt

I went ahead and unhooked both the positive and negative cables from battery. By the way, ESDSKeith, the battery that came with my 2012 1940 is ok but I plan on replacing it in a couple of months...I believe it is some generic brand 850 CCA RV/Marine type...I would welcome any suggestions for a replacement. (On my boat I've had good success with Delco and the Auto Zone marine- the truck has an Interstate that lasted 4 years in the Florida heat)
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:41 AM   #16
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I've had the same dual Interstate Marine/RV batts for 9 years and can't tell them from new.

Its always on shorepower during the camping season, in the driveway or camping. After the last trip in the fall, I remove them to my unheated garage where they sit on a small automatic battery maintainer inside a box of 1" pink styrofoam board to hold their little bit of self-generated heat.
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