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Old 10-19-2018, 11:51 PM   #1
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Another powerlift question -Roof will lower but not raise

So I have a 2013 Rockwood Freedom LTD1940 popup. We just bought it back in May and have never had any issues with the electric lift...until the other day. First off, the battery is fully charged and I lubed the winch and cables back in the spring.

So my problem is that the roof will not raise but it will lower. I've even partially raised the roof with a power drill and tried raising it with the switch the rest of the way but it still will not work. I removed the cover and switched the lower/raise wires that connect to the control board and the raise wire will lower the roof but the lower wire will not raise the roof. So that told me that the raise/lower switch is good. I'm wondering if its the relay pack on the control board or could it be the limit switch? I believe I know what happened though. I was removing the cover from my PUP and the cover got caught on the raise switch and it tried to raise while the PUP was closed up and latched. Not sure if it burnt up the relay or something else possibly in the limit switch. I don't believe it is a fuse because the unit will still lower. Is it likely that the limit switch is bad or the relay? If push comes to shove, I believe I can reverse polarity of the motor and be able to raise the roof that way but I would have to switch those wires each time I wanted to raise or lower the roof. Any ideas? Thanks everyone.
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Old 10-20-2018, 01:40 PM   #2
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Had the same issue on my Rockwood 2516G took it to the dealership. It was the control board . Dealer say could
not get control board they replaced the power lift.works like new.
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Old 10-20-2018, 01:46 PM   #3
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Sounds like the up limit switch is stuck, so the controls thinks it's already up and it won't let it go up more.
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Old 10-20-2018, 01:47 PM   #4
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As did I on my 2016, 2516G. Called Carefree and they sent me a new control board/relays. No more issues!
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdub2 View Post
Had the same issue on my Rockwood 2516G took it to the dealership. It was the control board . Dealer say could
not get control board they replaced the power lift.works like new.
I'm kind of surprised to hear they couldn't get the control board as I've had someone else tell me they were sent a replacement. Also, I believe this is it anyway.

https://www.tesstools.net/Carefree_R..._p/r001751.htm

Sounds like you faired pretty good on that deal anyway though. I'd take a whole new unit over a board if offered.
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:45 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
Sounds like the up limit switch is stuck, so the controls thinks it's already up and it won't let it go up more.
How can I test this or fix this? I guess I could bypass the limit switch to test this theory. Don't have much experience with limit switches.

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As did I on my 2016, 2516G. Called Carefree and they sent me a new control board/relays. No more issues!
Thanks again, Aaron!
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Old 10-21-2018, 02:28 PM   #7
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How can I test this or fix this? I guess I could bypass the limit switch to test this theory. Don't have much experience with limit switches.
Yes, just temporarily bypass the limit switch and see if the motor will run. If it will, then you can concentrate on figuring out how to fix it.
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Old 10-21-2018, 02:53 PM   #8
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If the limit switch is at fault, the good news is that you can test it easily. When functioning, it may as well be a straight piece of wire. Buy some alligator-clip jumper wires and connect straight from the up-down toggle switch to the relay connection where each side of the circuit connects through the limit switch. You need not disconnect the limit switch. Adding the jumper merely adds another, parallel path for the signal. If the thing works, there's your answer. On mine, the wire is color coded from the up/down toggle thru the limit switch and all the way to the relay, so it's easy.

If this makes you nervous, use your drill to raise the roof about 1 foot off its resting point...to a location where both limit switches should be "closed" (on) and use a multi-meter to test the continuity (ohms) through the limit switch. It should be nearly 0 (zero)) ohms on both sides of the switch (up circuit and down circuit). If one is "open" (infinite ohms), the switch is bad or WAY out of adjustment, which means something outside or inside is broken.

My opinion of these limit switches:
The French have a word for this: "junque".

Other possible issues are covered in this tirade from a year ago.

VERY IMPORTANT. The winch lift for the camper seems to be trouble-prone. There are two key weaknesses:
1) The relays that supply power to the motor do not seem to be outdoor relays, but they are exposed to lots of dirt and moisture. Replacement relays are readily available. I used silicone to seal the relay cases of my replacements. I don't know if that will improve their life or not, but the cases were not sealed, and, before I figured out the limit switch thing, I presumed that both relays failed and replaced them at the end of last season. No big deal, but the installation plate and new relays required a bit of work with a Dremel tool to mount the new ones.
2. All use limit switches to stop the motor at max height and minimum height. (You can, of course, just pay attention, but the limit switch accommodates the inattentive.) Some limit switches are simple. But mine was a bizarrely complex mechanism that only a mad scientist could invent. I spent 22 years in commercial broadcast TV, and all satellite dishes, microwave dishes, and so on have limit switches, but NOTHING like this. My limit switch is depicted in part #2 in this diagram. https://www.tesstools.net/P92001_Pop...rts_s/2463.htm Mine is an orange cylinder, about the diameter of a banana and 6" long. It had an outer plastic gear that engaged with the main, steel lift gear. The plastic gear failed, AND the "key" and "keyway" that allowed the gear to engage the drive drum sheared off, too.
Since I do pay attention when I raise and lower the camper, and since the electric switches in the limit switch are "normally closed" (always on unless a small plunger is depressed), I disabled the limit switch. A straight piece of wire would be the same. I think it is a poor design, and, at $38 a pop to prevent stupidity, I'd no more replace it than shoot myself in the foot. In the harsh environment on the A-frame of a trailer, it's exposed to dust, dirt, pebbles, water and anything else that sprays up off your tow vehicle tires. I disassembled the device, made sure the numerous gears, shafts and so on were "neutralized" so they would not interfere with the winch operation, used a VOM meter (multi-meter) to verify "continuity" through the switch - a continuous circuit - and put it back. I'll buy a new one for installation when I sell the camper one day.
3) The manual override works great so long as you have a good cordless drill (and perhaps a spare battery) to drive it. Hand cranking would take forever. It's easy, but way too slow. Lifting the camper roof with the hand crank might take an hour!! A cordless drill will raise or lower the roof about half as fast as the winch motor. All you need is one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-57363...er+jack+socket And you can use your drill and this socket to raise and retract the stabilizer jacks, too.

Useful instruction on lift winches: Wicked Winch - Lift System Troubleshooting for Flagstaff Camping Trailers | Roberts Sales Note that the limit switches depicted in this tutorial are the "other kind" of limit switch...the "good kind" I'm accustomed to seeing on satellite dishes on news trucks that are operated "blindly" by techs inside the truck.
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Old 10-21-2018, 03:01 PM   #9
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P.S. I went on several camping trips using manual override (cordless drill) to raise and lower the roof. I was tempted to leave well enough alone. Fixing the winch was more a matter of being stubborn and wanting that extra speed to raise and lower the roof...but hardly necessary.
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Old 10-21-2018, 03:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finch85 View Post
<<SNIP>> I believe I know what happened though. I was removing the cover from my PUP and the cover got caught on the raise switch and it tried to raise while the PUP was closed up and latched. <<SNIP>>
My rant about the limit switch aside, this sounds like a blown fuse. In the tutorial in my first post, they point out a fuse buried in tape. The designs are always evolving, but it's very likely that there may be two fuses buried in there somewhere. It's FAR less likely that you'd have burned up a relay. The "low power" side of the relay is designed to handle sustained (low power) current. The high power side of the relay is just two contacts that close and make the circuit. That side of the circuit should be protected by a fuse of some sort. A "stalled" motor will increase its current demand until the fuse blows.

If you're lucky, it might be a circuit breaker with a reset, but more likely a replaceable fuse. Poke around a bit, and you'll probably find a fuse in there. My hunch is that the fuse would be on the "input" side of the relay....between the battery and the relay...rather than on the downstream side ...between the relay and the motor. But it could be on either side and do the job.

The scenario you describe would not damage the limit switch, because the winch motor was stalled, and even the mad-scientist version of the limit switch would not be turning or under strain.
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