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05-23-2011, 03:55 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 15
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Clipper 108ST
Hi,
I had this posted in general tech and repairs but someone suggested I post it here instead.
I purchased a new Clipper 108st in December last year and used it for the first time this weekend at a provincial campground (Canada) but have a couple of questions/problems.
1) Although I was plugged into shore power I could not run the fridge on 120V (didn't work) or use any of the electrical outlets (didn't work). Is there a switch or something I am missing that has to do with the converter. Everything that runs on 12V was fine after I was plugged in.
2) Sorry for my ignorance and my walk through of the camper was 6 months ago, I have no idea how to use the water system - both the sink (is there a switch for the water pump) and the hot water. If anyone can give me using water for dummies regarding this model it would be appreciated. I would be using the trailers tank for water.
Thank you and sorry for my city-dweller noob questions.
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05-23-2011, 04:16 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,855
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i'm posting the same thing i put on your other post.
for the 120v fridge and outlets, you have to plugged into shore power. can't work off of the battery.
so, it has to be something with the converter. you need to post pics of it or the brand and model number of it.
same goes for the WH, need brand and model number. and are you using city water or the FW tank's water?
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05-23-2011, 04:32 PM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Make sure the main breaker is not thrown. Turn it off, and snap it back on just to be sure.
__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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05-23-2011, 04:38 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Savannah
Posts: 133
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There should be a switch for the water pump. Works off the battery or converter. Be sure you have water in the fresh watertank and bleed all faucets of air. Allow the hot water tank to fill by bleeding the hot faucet until it quit sputtering. Need to get someone famaliar with your camper to explain if your water heater has been bypassed for winterizing or not. Your pump will make plenty of noise when running but after you bleed everything it should run until the system pressurizes and then stop until needed again.
Check the Circuit Breaker panel for a tripped main breaker if you have no power to the outlets. Try turning all breakers off and then back on. Sounds like a problem coming to the main panel, possibly a loose connection at the panel itself. If resetting the breakers doesn't help get someone knowledgeable of electricity to check the connections at the panel. Might also be a loose connection at the connection for shore power. Again get someone familiar with power to check if you are unsure......
Might be a good idea to take a trip to the dealer and have him check this over and get him to show you one more time how things work.....
__________________
2011 F250 Lariat Crew Cab 6.7L Diesel
2011 Flagstaff Classic Superlite 831 FKBSS
Fleet of Canoes and one Kayak
So Many Rivers so Little Time!
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05-23-2011, 04:52 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Savannah
Posts: 133
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Specs I found for this camper don't show any tanks for fresh water, grey or black water. Need some help from someone that has this camper or from your dealer....
__________________
2011 F250 Lariat Crew Cab 6.7L Diesel
2011 Flagstaff Classic Superlite 831 FKBSS
Fleet of Canoes and one Kayak
So Many Rivers so Little Time!
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05-23-2011, 05:14 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 15
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Here is a picture of the hot water heater and the unit to heat it.
I tried turning the breakers off and back on but did not work. Someone suggested the GFI popped but I will need to put up camper to find it and it is raining now so will wait till tomorrow for that.
Unfortunately my dealer is a few hundred kms away so not a trip I want to be making.
Thanks for all the input.
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05-24-2011, 05:11 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 15
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Here is a better picture of the water heater. From reading other threads I think the top and bottom valve are closed and middle is open and when I use this it should be the opposite. Can anyone tell me what the valves actually are for?
Also, I am a little worried my battery is incorrectly set up as I was instructed to take it out for the winter. I think it is correct as the red wire goes into a fuse then into positive but the colour at the connection is actually yellow on positive and red on negative and red usually goes to positive.
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05-24-2011, 06:39 PM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,855
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forget the yellow and red color of the wire ends, they have nothing to do with it.
you need to follow the white wire and make sure it grounds to the frame or tongue.
the positive wire, if it's the black one will go back along the frame towards the converter.
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05-24-2011, 07:35 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,031
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The valves stop the flow of water to the water heater. When you winterize the unit you will not fill the water heater with antifreeze. The water heater is set for winterizing. The top and bottom valves have to be turned so they are in same direction as water lines and the middle valve has to be turned so it is 90 deg. to water line. Your water heater will then fill with water. After the tank if full follow direction on heater on how to light.
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Terry and Janet
2008 3001W Windjammer
2007 Ford F150
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05-24-2011, 08:17 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Baltimore Md.
Posts: 122
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Just a thought, on our old pop-up it had to be opened up in order for things to work. It had a switch under the galley and the galley had to be flipped up.
Charlie
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06-02-2011, 01:25 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ottawa Ontario Canada
Posts: 930
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I had basically the same trailer but an 05 1057. This sounds like your Ground Fault, like a previous poster stated. The converter system is quite seemless, and if you blow the ground fault, you wont even notice anything has happened, as your lights wont flicker, or anything. We had to actually install a nightlight and leave it on to ensure 120 was running, or else we would loose stuff in the fridge.
So check your GFI .. should be under the dinnet .. opposite where you stow your stove.
d-mo
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06-04-2011, 09:44 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 15
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Thanks everyone, it was the GFI so should be all good now,
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