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Old 09-11-2011, 07:08 PM   #1
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dead battery - how to prevent/isolate

Went camping this weekend for second time since we purchased our 2010 Flagstaff HW 27. Started out a little rough, not enough juice in battery to raise the roof. Had to raise it manually, which takes forever with the gearing of the winch.

A little investigation revealed the 25 amp fuse directly off the battery was blown. I am not sure on the wiring (frankly it does not make much sense) but ti appears that fuse is what connects to the inverter.

When I replaced fuse I heard something make a long beep inside.

Question 1 - what draws on the battery that would have blown the fuse (it is NOT the power winch for raising the roof.)

Question 2 - is there no way to actually shut off all power to the camper without physical removal of the battery?

Question 3 - does the battery charge from the inverter, tow vehicle or both?

Thanks for any help.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:37 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by jeeplj8 View Post
Question 2 - is there no way to actually shut off all power to the camper without physical removal of the battery?

Question 3 - does the battery charge from the inverter, tow vehicle or both?
A2 - Removal of that 25A fuse likely functions as a pretty effective means to shut off all power to the camper; however, that is kind of clumsy. Some people install isolation switches for storage when they are going to be storing it without benefit of solar or shore power.

A3 - The battery should be getting charged from your converter when plugged into shore power as well as your tow vehicle while traveling; however, if that fuse is blown, the battery isn't going to be getting any charge in either case.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:53 PM   #3
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first, you need to install a battery disconnect switch. modern RVs have many parasitic power drains that will drain a battery in a few days. CO detector, propane detector, radio are a few of them.

second, your trailer has an Converter, not an Inverter. inverters have to be an added feature unless you're getting a big Class A or 5th wheel.

third, yes the converter will charge the battery if the trailer is plugged into shore power.
the tow vehicle can only trickle charge a small amount at best. you would have to drive for hours to re-charge a drained battery.
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:50 PM   #4
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The beep from inside most likely was a low battery alarm in your propane detector. All other responses are pretty much right on IMO.

Without that 25 amp fuse you will not get charging from the converter or tow vehicle as stated previously.

No telling what blew that fuse in the first place, it could have been the power winch overdrawing when it was last raised or lowered. Some units have no electrical stops for full up or down and holding the switch past "closed" or "open" can bog the motor and blow the fuse. I fixed a similar issue with my 5th wheel's landing gear by replacing the blade fuse with an auto-resetting current limiter from Auto-Zone. That way if it does pop from holding the switch too long the limiter will reset on its own in a few seconds.
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Old 09-12-2011, 12:06 AM   #5
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Battery killers

Answer 1 - Like said above there are several parasitic loads in RVs. The CO and LP leak detectors are a couple. When I'm done with my Sunseeker C Class unit I turn my battery disconnect switch to "OFF" to keep the coach battery charged between uses. I turn it back on when I get ready to go again. The LP detector fusses with a long dying beep when I turn the switch off each time. Invest in a battery cutoff switch at your local auto parts shop, Wally-World, or even Harbor Freight Battery Disconnect Switch

Hope this helps some.
Chris in Virginia
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:05 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
The beep from inside most likely was a low battery alarm in your propane detector. All other responses are pretty much right on IMO.

Without that 25 amp fuse you will not get charging from the converter or tow vehicle as stated previously.

No telling what blew that fuse in the first place, it could have been the power winch overdrawing when it was last raised or lowered. Some units have no electrical stops for full up or down and holding the switch past "closed" or "open" can bog the motor and blow the fuse. I fixed a similar issue with my 5th wheel's landing gear by replacing the blade fuse with an auto-resetting current limiter from Auto-Zone. That way if it does pop from holding the switch too long the limiter will reset on its own in a few seconds.

I know for sure it was not the winch, because it direct wired to the battery. The is the only source I cannot rule out. I was curious what on the inside could draw that much current...probably not lights or stereo, fridge?
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:09 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by vasnipe View Post
Answer 1 - Like said above there are several parasitic loads in RVs. The CO and LP leak detectors are a couple. When I'm done with my Sunseeker C Class unit I turn my battery disconnect switch to "OFF" to keep the coach battery charged between uses. I turn it back on when I get ready to go again. The LP detector fusses with a long dying beep when I turn the switch off each time. Invest in a battery cutoff switch at your local auto parts shop, Wally-World, or even Harbor Freight Battery Disconnect Switch

Hope this helps some.
Chris in Virginia

Gotya - that should be what I need.

Next I will probably get a solar battery maintainer just to keep the battery charged nicely.
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:26 PM   #8
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Glad to help out. There is a LOT of information here for the asking, I've picked up a thing or three that have helped us out.
Post what you come up with along with pictures if you can, might help someone else down the line.

Chris in Virginia
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