Electrical power up in a 2017 Flagstaff 206STSE

[Hall]

Just purchased a 2017 Flagstaff 206STSE pop up camper. After thoroughly going over this camper with the previous owner showing that everything works, I brought it home and hooked up the very next day to show the wife. After running a 30' 16ga extension cord from a home receptacle to adaptor/30amp RV cord 25' to additional 50' 30amp RV cord totaling 105' of length for electricity to travel before reaching the pop up. I can not operate the AC unit, or for that matter run off 120V green switch. Could the length be my ultimate problem? Knowing a home receptacle is only good for 12-15 amps, and AC alone requires probably 15-20 amps. Little frustrated knowing it was the first day to set it up at home. I do know the previous owner had a 25' 30amp RV cord running from the camper to a household I assume 25' extension cord. Not sure which gauge extension cord they used. But it was obviously under 50' and not my 105'. With that being said does the furnace blower run off electrical for the fan or does it start once combustion takes place when the propane gas valve is turned on at the bottle. Lots of things going on here. Just need some advice and help.

12V worked even without the 12V red switch toggle switch being on. I assume once I raised the galley for the kitchen sink it activated the two nipples for the interior LED lights, ventilation fan, and stereo to come on, am I correct in that thinking?

[flyerdp]

Originally Posted by Hall

Just purchased a 2017 Flagstaff 206STSE pop up camper. After thoroughly going over this camper with the previous owner showing that everything works, I brought it home and hooked up the very next day to show the wife. After running a 30' 16ga extension cord from a home receptacle to adaptor/30amp RV cord 25' to additional 50' 30amp RV cord totaling 105' of length for electricity to travel before reaching the pop up. I can not operate the AC unit, or for that matter run off 120V green switch. Could the length be my ultimate problem? Knowing a home receptacle is only good for 12-15 amps, and AC alone requires probably 15-20 amps. Little frustrated knowing it was the first day to set it up at home. I do know the previous owner had a 25' 30amp RV cord running from the camper to a household I assume 25' extension cord. Not sure which gauge extension cord they used. But it was obviously under 50' and not my 105'. With that being said does the furnace blower run off electrical for the fan or does it start once combustion takes place when the propane gas valve is turned on at the bottle. Lots of things going on here. Just need some advice and help.

12V worked even without the 12V red switch toggle switch being on. I assume once I raised the galley for the kitchen sink it activated the two nipples for the interior LED lights, ventilation fan, and stereo to come on, am I correct in that thinking?

That long of a run is going to cost you in resistance and loose you available power but yes, most AC's run in the 20amp range. I would not recommend trying to run it off of 15 amp circuit unless you want to be in the market for a new A/C in the short term. Especially if you are in a hotter part of the country.

[Flybob]

You are correct. Once you raise the top, you activate the 12VDC switch that enables power to the items in the top. As for running the A/C on a small ( 16 gauge ) extension that long that will not work. Running the A/C on a 15A outlet at home is marginal even with a short heavy cord. Also be aware that you have a GFCI in your PUP and if connected to a GFCI outlet on the outside of your house or garage, it may trip the GFCI in the residence. Trying to run the A/C on a long undersized extension can damage the compressor.

[llr]

No idea what the 120v green switch is, need more details

For the A/C the combination of length, that 16ga cord and the outlet. With that length even with a heaver extension cord I would still not try the A/C. Other lower draw 120V AC items should work, converter, fridge on AC etc.

the Furnace fan, lights, water pump all run on 12V DC from the battery and converter

[Bama Rambler]

Beside the 105' that 16 awg is killing the voltage. You're not going to be able to run the A/C with extension cords that length. Ideally you need to get power closer to the RV or the RV a lot closer to the power. Even then, a 15 amp receptacle is cutting it pretty close. You'll definitely have to make sure everything else is off, especially the converter.

The furnace blower runs on 12 volts and it starts when the thermostat calls for heat. It runs a minute or two before the gas valve is opened in order to purge the unit. Then if it senses flame it continues to run.

With the unit plugged in the 12 volt stuff will operate off the converter without the battery or with the battery disconnect open. You just won't be charging the battery.

[Hall]

Thanks Flyerdp I thought that it was likely due to me running the long distance with such a small gauge extension cord. I knew better but that's all I had to get me the distance. The home receptacle was being used strictly to show the wife how things worked. The receptacle I used was not GFCI itself but is connected to another GFCI plug in the garage. The GFCI receptacle did work at the source after determining that the AC unit was not powering up/turning on. So yes I went back to square one to make sure I didn't trip the GFCI.


So flyerdp and FlyBob believe that if I run a shorter distance with the 25' 30amp RV cord to a 25' 12 or 14 ga extension cord I could see that things are working for a quick test at the residence?


With what I did last night with the extended length of the cord, you don't think I could have damaged any electrical components on the campers end?

[jcr59]

Originally Posted by Hall

Thanks Flyerdp I thought that it was likely due to me running the long distance with such a small gauge extension cord. I knew better but that's all I had to get me the distance. The home receptacle was being used strictly to show the wife how things worked. The receptacle I used was not GFCI itself but is connected to another GFCI plug in the garage. The GFCI receptacle did work at the source after determining that the AC unit was not powering up/turning on. So yes I went back to square one to make sure I didn't trip the GFCI.


So flyerdp and FlyBob believe that if I run a shorter distance with the 25' 30amp RV cord to a 25' 12 or 14 ga extension cord I could see that things are working for a quick test at the residence?


With what I did last night with the extended length of the cord, you don't think I could have damaged any electrical components on the campers end?

I have a 50' run with a pair of 10/3 RV cords on a household circuit. I can run the A/C only if nothing else on the circuit is drawing power.
I would not consider actually using the A/C but to do a quick operational test you should be ok.

[Hoglou]

First I bet your furnace fan is 12 volt not 120. A tad concerned about voltage drop as the AC compressor can be sensitive. Take a look at a voltage drop calcultor (calculator.net has on) and enter the smallest wire size you ae using. You may well be below ths AC range of volts.

You could load test the line you have with (wait for it you are going to laugh) a hair dryer, blender, and a toaster. No not related to the three guys in a boat joke, just trying to max out the amps. Read the tags..

Also I think you should be able to start the AC with a 20 ft cord on a clean unburdened plug, even it is rated at 15 amps.

[Hall]

So 50' total length, and in that run you have two 10/3 RV cords that are 25' each adapting down to home receptacle?

[Flybob]

If you know the A/C works based on your demo at purchase, I would demo everything but the A/C until you can connect to a 30A connection.

[Hoglou]

Soory if I duplicated info, I started the post at 316, went to the frig, came back and finished, and pow ... all that good stuff got posted.

[Hall]

Good start to see on the appliances (hair dryer, toaster, etc.). Good deal, I bet you are on to something. Hope the compressor is okay, all in all.

[flyerdp]

Originally Posted by Hall

Thanks Flyerdp I thought that it was likely due to me running the long distance with such a small gauge extension cord. I knew better but that's all I had to get me the distance. The home receptacle was being used strictly to show the wife how things worked. The receptacle I used was not GFCI itself but is connected to another GFCI plug in the garage. The GFCI receptacle did work at the source after determining that the AC unit was not powering up/turning on. So yes I went back to square one to make sure I didn't trip the GFCI.


So flyerdp and FlyBob believe that if I run a shorter distance with the 25' 30amp RV cord to a 25' 12 or 14 ga extension cord I could see that things are working for a quick test at the residence?


With what I did last night with the extended length of the cord, you don't think I could have damaged any electrical components on the campers end?

I use the yellow cord that came with my 2016 228D (nevermeasured it) and an additional 25' 30 amp extenstion plugged in to a 30 amp RV outlet and all works just fine.

[Bob414]

Maybe a dumb idea, I been caught not connecting it before myself. Did you have and connect the AC power cable between the camper and the camper top.

Even at long distance the AC Fan should work. Would NOT even try AC compressor on a 15Amp circuit.

Bob

[cavie]

take that 16 ga ex cord and burn it. Buy 12 ga cords.

[flyerdp]

Originally Posted by Bob414

Maybe a dumb idea, I been caught not connecting it before myself. Did you have and connect the AC power cable between the camper and the camper top.

Even at long distance the AC Fan should work. Would NOT even try AC compressor on a 15Amp circuit.

Bob

I wish there were "thumbs up" rankings for posts on here because this would get one from me

I have done this a couple of times now. Agreed, the fan should run no problem on 15amps

[pgandw]

I assume the "green" switch is behind the upper fridge vent. This switch turns fridge AC power on or off. There should also be a "red" switch beside it - this turns the fridge DC on or off. And a dial control that sets how much AC power gets to the fridge heating coil when on AC (DC has NO control).

You will not hear the fridge operate. After about 30 minutes, you should feel heated air coming out of the top vent. And the "chimney" should be warm or hot to the touch.

When you operate your fridge on AC or DC, you turn on the AC switch or the DC switch, but NOT both at the same time.

Behind the lower fridge vent are the fridge propane controls. You will see a red push button, a switch that is marked with on and off, and a rotary control like in the upper to control the amount of cooling. The fridge runs continuously in whichever mode you turn on until you turn it off. There is no thermostat or thermostatic control. To light the propane burner, turn off the AC and DC. Turn the propane switch to "on", and push and hold the switch in. While holding the switch pushed in and in the "on" position, push the red button several times in rapid succession to create a spark to light the propane. You must continue pushing the "on" switch in for about 45 seconds to allow the flame sensing thermocouple to warm up enough to hold the gas valve open.

The AC side of your 3 way fridge has a circuit breaker on the AC side of the panel - usually shared with the converter. The DC portion of the fridge should have a 15 amp fuse on the DC side of the panel. AC, DC, and propane modes are totally independent on your fridge - none requires either of the others to operate.

I strongly recommend a wireless, battery operated outdoor thermometer ($11 at WalMart) to monitor your fridge temperature. Put the sending unit inside the fridge, and the readout where you want it.

hope this helps
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21BHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

[cavie]

Originally Posted by pgandw

I assume the "green" switch is behind the upper fridge vent. This switch turns fridge AC power on or off. There should also be a "red" switch beside it - this turns the fridge DC on or off. And a dial control that sets how much AC power gets to the fridge heating coil when on AC (DC has NO control).

You will not hear the fridge operate. After about 30 minutes, you should feel heated air coming out of the top vent. And the "chimney" should be warm or hot to the touch.

When you operate your fridge on AC or DC, you turn on the AC switch or the DC switch, but NOT both at the same time.

Behind the lower fridge vent are the fridge propane controls. You will see a red push button, a switch that is marked with on and off, and a rotary control like in the upper to control the amount of cooling. The fridge runs continuously in whichever mode you turn on until you turn it off. There is no thermostat or thermostatic control. To light the propane burner, turn off the AC and DC. Turn the propane switch to "on", and push and hold the switch in. While holding the switch pushed in and in the "on" position, push the red button several times in rapid succession to create a spark to light the propane. You must continue pushing the "on" switch in for about 45 seconds to allow the flame sensing thermocouple to warm up enough to hold the gas valve open.

The AC side of your 3 way fridge has a circuit breaker on the AC side of the panel - usually shared with the converter. The DC portion of the fridge should have a 15 amp fuse on the DC side of the panel. AC, DC, and propane modes are totally independent on your fridge - none requires either of the others to operate.

I strongly recommend a wireless, battery operated outdoor thermometer ($11 at WalMart) to monitor your fridge temperature. Put the sending unit inside the fridge, and the readout where you want it.

hope this helps
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21BHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

12 volt DC is required at all times to run the control circuit of the fridge weather on AC or GAS.

Light inside is 12 volt.

Start up on my 2 fridges are both automatic. No button holding/pushing is required except to switch from GAS to auto. Auto is AC.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by cavie

12 volt DC is required at all times to run the control circuit of the fridge weather on AC or GAS.

Light inside is 12 volt.

Start up on my 2 fridges are both automatic. No button holding/pushing is required except to switch from GAS to auto. Auto is AC.

cavie, this thread is in the Popup sub-forum and the OP has a popup with a 3-way fridge so it doesn't work like yours.
So Fred's post that you quoted, is correct and yours is not.

[Hall]

Yes every time I've tried. I have connected the AC prep.