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Old 09-24-2014, 10:37 PM   #21
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Wish you could add a tank flush to the black tank! You would just have to make sure not to clog or run it with the gate valve closed.
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:40 PM   #22
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Okay, thanks. It would just be nice to have an idea we could budget water usage better. But it is what it is. Hoping to squeeze in one more trip this year but October is already packed. Hopefully the weather will hold out into early November.
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:14 AM   #23
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Yeah it would be nice to have some kinda access to the black. You could add the monitoring to the FW and GRAY and BATTERIES.
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:37 AM   #24
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I could take or leave the monitoring system. As was said, in a pop up you can tell when things are full or filling up. What concerns me the most is the fouling of the sensors. I hear this all the time on the forum from the hard sided campers. I like to keep my camping as low tech as possible. This just seems like another thing to break.

I do not boondock so the battery and FW levels are pretty much irrelevant. The grey water I tend to leave open to drain out. That leaves the black tank which I plan on keeping a close eye on manually by simply looking down the toilet. I am used to dumping my cassette toilet every 3-4 days so I plan to do the same with the black tank.

I do agree that a black tank flush would have been a much more useful addition.


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Old 09-25-2014, 09:40 AM   #25
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vin

i kinda dont fully boondock but the state CGs in michigan only have electric hook up so you cant leave the gray open and you have to use the FW tank but if you run out of FW both tanks are very close to full seeing the tanks (blk/gry) are 12 ea and the FW tank is 20 gal and the HW tank is 6 gal. onI installed a battery tender that has to be plugged to power so its always poulling electric from the house even if stored for 2 weeks. that where it would be nice just to charge by solar. looking into solar just to tend the batteries.
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:21 PM   #26
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Speaking of tanks. I got a really ugly set up under the camper.

My old camper had a simple molded tank mounted to the underside with two pipe fitting molded into it. One for the intake and one for the outtake.

The tanks I have underneath now have this strange jury rigged set up using plumbers putty and hose clamps. Not sure if they need to cut into the tank to get the senors in or what but it sure looks ugly.

While I was under there, I noticed that they drilled a hole for the fridge drain hose to go thru the floor and there is another hole cut in the floor about 1 1/2 dia that had a simple drain plug slipped into the hole. Not sure if that was for water to drain out or what but I did find that unusual and interesting.

I will try to take pics of all this stuff once I figure out how to post a picture.

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Old 09-25-2014, 04:41 PM   #27
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vin,

yeah try to post pics of this stuff, im new to high walls and tanks in a pup so im not sure. ill look at mine next week, had to take it in and get warrenty work, the microiware is falling into the cabinet like the cabinet is to deep.
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:50 PM   #28
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Test.
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:52 PM   #29
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Hehehe. It worked. I will pop some photos this weekend of the 2015 changes that I noticed and upload them.
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:10 PM   #30
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I was able able to crawl under the unit today and noticed that the grey water sensor is mounted to the lower grey tank. On my unit the grey tank below the sink feeds into the grey tank below the shower and then exits. The shower grey tank is mounted on a second piece of plywood to ensure that it is below the level of the kitchen grey tank. I am not sure how accurate this sensor will be since one could envision that the shower tank would need to be close to full in order for the water to back up into the kitchen tank.

I was also pleased to see that the frame on my 16' box is stronger than my old pop up. My previous pop up had a 2' front storage bin and a 12' box. When they designed the new 14' box highwalls, they basically eliminated the front storage area and made it living space. My old pop up sat on 4" box steel rails running front to back. Not sure if they kept it the same for the 14' boxes.

The HW296 with its 16' box sits on 6" box steel rails running front to back to which support the outside walls and bolt to the axles. The cross members are mainly 3" angle iron. I am hopeful that the 6" box steel will make for a stiffer frame and reduce flexing that can affect the door installation.

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