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Old 09-13-2014, 10:37 AM   #11
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Camp in your driveway first. Give you a chance to make a list of what you really need without being far from home.


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2014 Stealth Evo 2850- "Woodstock"
2011 Toyota Tundra Rock Crawler TRD 5.7- "Clifford"
2013 Honda Accord Coupe V6 w/Track Pack- "Julia"

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Old 09-13-2014, 11:33 AM   #12
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Congrats on camper, enjoy.


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Old 09-13-2014, 01:40 PM   #13
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Some converters (like mine) also have a switch on the panel that you must switch back and forth to able to use the 12v power from the battery when not plugged in to shore power.
Also, if your lights come on and work when plugged into shore power then the micro switch on your galley is NOT the culprit, as someone had mentioned that switch previously.
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Old 09-15-2014, 04:02 PM   #14
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Not sure about your particular model, but my pop up lights will not work unless the sink is in place...there is a switch that connects and that makes all of the 12 volt stuff (lights/radio/etc...) come on once the sink is lifted up and in place...
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Old 09-15-2014, 04:41 PM   #15
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I didn't see anyone mention the battery disconnect yet. If you have one, it might be in the 'disconnect' position. In my TT, what you describe is how my behaves when the disconnect is hooked up. When plugged in, my 12v items are powered by the converter. When hookup to the truck, they're powered by the truck. But if not hooked up to either, then I have to have the battery disconnect in the 'connected' position to have power.

On mine, it's a plunger style. In is disconnected, out is connected. It helps to think of it like one of those big red emergency stop buttons. Punch it in to kill the power, pull it out to reset.

If that's ok, the next thing to check is the current limit and reverse polarity fuses. If the battery got hooked up backwards at any point, it would have blown the reverse polarity fuses, and even if you turn the connections around it still doesn't work. Check those first, since they're usually the easiest to get to.

After that is the current limit. This could be a fuse or a resetable breaker, usually withing a few feet of the battery. In most cases if you lay down under the tongue and trace the leads from the battery they can be located. They'll go from the battery to the limit/fuse before going to anything else. Make sure they're good. The fuse is just a matter of replacing, the resetable limit will have a little button on the side of the box. If it's out, it's tripped and needs to be pushed back in.

So, all in all with the other recommendations on here you've got:

1) Battery disconnect
2) Reverse Polarity Fuses
3) Current Limiter
4) Top Up/Down switch
5) Sink Up/Down Switch

Check those and let us know.
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Old 09-15-2014, 07:42 PM   #16
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All that sounds good....will check it out, thanks
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:18 AM   #17
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Well I got this fixed, $100 later.....turns out the fuse holder coming off the battery had gone bad so the RV repair guy ended up bypassing that type of fuse holder and changed it out to a 30amp short stop right off the battery. Yesterday I installed a new Powerlift winch for the top and now everything seems to be working well. Can't wait to go camping again!
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