First attempt at pop-up camping!

Vicfut · 09-13-2014, 07:39 AM

I just bought a 2007 Flagstaff 227 popup....my first trip is in a week (very excited). The trailer did not come with an owners manual so when I come across things I've usually been able to get the answers for this sight. Can anyone tell me if the interior lights are suppose to work, after unplugging from the truck and before plugging into the 120v?

Dennis and Julie · 09-13-2014, 07:44 AM

Yes if you have a good battery.

rlocicero · 09-13-2014, 07:45 AM

Is your battery not charging? Test the battery voltage and 12v output from the converter with a volt meter. You should be getting qabout 13.2 volts.

whitmw · 09-13-2014, 07:58 AM

I had one of these. Great popups!

Vicfut · 09-13-2014, 08:06 AM

I took the battery down to the auto shop and they tested it out, saying it was fine. I have a three way converter for the fridge but I have not checked it out yet....a little scared of propane! I checked the fuses and they were fine. Everything works when plugged to the house. I just can't get the sealing lights to turn on when not plugged into house power.

4mula1fan · 09-13-2014, 08:25 AM

Our pop up had a micro switch so when the top was down, the lights wouldn't work and overheat causing a fire risk. Maybe that micro switch is bent or stuck? It is on the rail somewhere so the top will hit the switch when down...

RSchleder · 09-13-2014, 08:27 AM

The frig may work as a 3 way item, however, that's just the frig design. The converter does 2 things in an rv, it coverts 120V AC to 12V DC ( which runs your 12V items when not plugged into 120V) and charges your battery/batteries. Your lights, when not plugged into 120V, get their 12V's from the battery which runs through the converter for distribution. So when you trouble shoot your ceiling lights, or any other lights for that mater, don't be concerned as the propane system is not involved. The above suggestions are the way to determine what's going on. If you don't have an volt/ohm meter, you can buy one at a reasonable price from any Auto store, Good luck!

Vicfut · 09-13-2014, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4mula1fan

Our pop up had a micro switch so when the top was down, the lights wouldn't work and overheat causing a fire risk. Maybe that micro switch is bent or stuck? It is on the rail somewhere so the top will hit the switch when down...

I know I have a switch that is located under the sink/stove area so that when I lift it into place it holds the red button down.....is that one in the same?

4mula1fan · 09-13-2014, 08:45 AM

Not sure, but it could be worth a look. Our pop up was a high wall so it could be the same switch.

Vicfut · 09-13-2014, 08:47 AM

Thanks everyone.....I'm sure I will be coming back often. HAPPY CAMPING

HONDAMAN174 · 09-13-2014, 09:37 AM

Camp in your driveway first. Give you a chance to make a list of what you really need without being far from home.

2014 Stealth Evo 2850 "Woodstock"
2011 Toyota Tundra Rock Crawler TRD 5.7 "Clifford"

W4NT3D · 09-13-2014, 10:33 AM

Congrats on camper, enjoy.

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

greukauf · 09-13-2014, 12:40 PM

Some converters (like mine) also have a switch on the panel that you must switch back and forth to able to use the 12v power from the battery when not plugged in to shore power.
Also, if your lights come on and work when plugged into shore power then the micro switch on your galley is NOT the culprit, as someone had mentioned that switch previously.

maccve · 09-15-2014, 03:02 PM

Not sure about your particular model, but my pop up lights will not work unless the sink is in place...there is a switch that connects and that makes all of the 12 volt stuff (lights/radio/etc...) come on once the sink is lifted up and in place...

Kaadk · 09-15-2014, 03:41 PM

I didn't see anyone mention the battery disconnect yet. If you have one, it might be in the 'disconnect' position. In my TT, what you describe is how my behaves when the disconnect is hooked up. When plugged in, my 12v items are powered by the converter. When hookup to the truck, they're powered by the truck. But if not hooked up to either, then I have to have the battery disconnect in the 'connected' position to have power.

On mine, it's a plunger style. In is disconnected, out is connected. It helps to think of it like one of those big red emergency stop buttons. Punch it in to kill the power, pull it out to reset.

If that's ok, the next thing to check is the current limit and reverse polarity fuses. If the battery got hooked up backwards at any point, it would have blown the reverse polarity fuses, and even if you turn the connections around it still doesn't work. Check those first, since they're usually the easiest to get to.

After that is the current limit. This could be a fuse or a resetable breaker, usually withing a few feet of the battery. In most cases if you lay down under the tongue and trace the leads from the battery they can be located. They'll go from the battery to the limit/fuse before going to anything else. Make sure they're good. The fuse is just a matter of replacing, the resetable limit will have a little button on the side of the box. If it's out, it's tripped and needs to be pushed back in.

So, all in all with the other recommendations on here you've got:

1) Battery disconnect
2) Reverse Polarity Fuses
3) Current Limiter
4) Top Up/Down switch
5) Sink Up/Down Switch

Check those and let us know.

Vicfut · 09-15-2014, 06:42 PM

All that sounds good....will check it out, thanks

Vicfut · 11-18-2014, 10:18 AM

Well I got this fixed, $100 later.....turns out the fuse holder coming off the battery had gone bad so the RV repair guy ended up bypassing that type of fuse holder and changed it out to a 30amp short stop right off the battery. Yesterday I installed a new Powerlift winch for the top and now everything seems to be working well. Can't wait to go camping again!

You may also like: