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Old 11-02-2013, 09:59 PM   #1
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Flagstaff Mac Alko brake adjustment

I'm trying to follow the instructions included with my Flagstaff MAC 206ST popup to adjust the brakes. The instructions are in a manual by AL-KO. Step 2 reads:

"Locate the adjusting slot at the bottom of the backing plate and remove the protective cover"

I have two problems with this. One: The backing plate on one wheel has the adjustment slot vertical, in the nine o'clock position. The adjustment slot on the other wheel is on the bottom, per the instructions. Two: The adjustment "slot" is actually two, close together oval shaped holes in the backing plate with NO protective covers.

Is the lack of protective covers a problem? Is the fact that the star wheel is on its side on one brake okay? Why was one installed differently than the other?
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:10 PM   #2
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Two options, take it back to the dealer and have him fix it. The other option is to remove the wheel & hub from the side with the slots @ 9 o'clock, remove the 4 nuts holding the backing plate, rotate the backing plate to where the slots are on the bottom and re-assemble. As for the slots not having rubber/plastic plugs, you can get those at an auto parts store. They need to be covered to keep water, debris out altho it's not a critical issue.
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Old 11-02-2013, 11:44 PM   #3
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Wow, that sucks. I can't believe this passed the "pre-delivery inspection" at Forest River. Oh wait, yes I can--based on numerous other goofs I've found.

It seems to still work okay with the magnet on the side instead of the bottom. I better call AL-KO on Monday to make sure it is okay to keep driving like that though. I've gone about 900 miles so far. Braking seems a little light even with the power turned all the way up on the brake controller. Hence, me wanting to adjust the brakes.

Picture of the wheel with the adjuster on its side attached.
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Old 11-03-2013, 01:15 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Stress View Post

Picture of the wheel with the adjuster on its side attached.
In the immortal words of Homer Simpson... Dooohhh!
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:09 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Captain Stress View Post
Wow, that sucks. I can't believe this passed the "pre-delivery inspection" at Forest River. Oh wait, yes I can--based on numerous other goofs I've found.

It seems to still work okay with the magnet on the side instead of the bottom. I better call AL-KO on Monday to make sure it is okay to keep driving like that though. I've gone about 900 miles so far. Braking seems a little light even with the power turned all the way up on the brake controller. Hence, me wanting to adjust the brakes.

Picture of the wheel with the adjuster on its side attached.



If it is still under warranty I suggest you take it back to the dealer AFTER you send pictures to the factory people.

If the warranty is done then OldCoot has you covered.
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Old 11-03-2013, 07:01 AM   #6
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If the dealer is over 30 minutes away and you have the time/tools, I'd do it myself and not waste the time and effort with the dealer. In the end, it will be just as good as if the dealer did the repair if not better. He will do the same thing as suggested. You can do the repair in less time than hooking up and unhooking would take.
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Old 11-03-2013, 10:35 AM   #7
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Old Coot: I'd love to take care of this myself, as I have other items that were messed up by the factory. My dealer is over an hour away and quotes me three weeks for any kind of warranty work.

Can you be more detailed in your instructions? When you say remove the wheel and hub, does removing the hub entail pulling a cotter pin, pulling the seal, washing bearings, and repacking afterward? If so, I've never done that kind of work and will probably have to let the dealer take this one. (I have easy lube axles. I think they are called UltraLube by AL-KO.)

Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2013, 10:54 AM   #8
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Old Coot: I'd love to take care of this myself, as I have other items that were messed up by the factory. My dealer is over an hour away and quotes me three weeks for any kind of warranty work.

Can you be more detailed in your instructions? When you say remove the wheel and hub, does removing the hub entail pulling a cotter pin, pulling the seal, washing bearings, and repacking afterward? If so, I've never done that kind of work and will probably have to let the dealer take this one. (I have easy lube axles. I think they are called UltraLube by AL-KO.)

Thanks.
It's a matter of jacking up the trailer with the other wheel chocked in both directions, removing the hub cap, removing the cap with the rubber insert, removing the cotter pin, removing the castellated nut and very carefully remove the wheel/tire/hub assy as one unit. Removing the 4 nuts holding the backing plate on, rotating the backing plate and re-bolting the backing plate. As for re-installing the hub/wheel/tire assembly, very carefully lift the assembly up and onto the spindle. DO NOT let the seal touch the threaded portion of the spindle as it will damage the seal. Slide the assy back on the spindle, re-install the flat washer and nut. FINGER tighten the nut. Rotate the wheel and using a wrench or pliers, snug the nut very slightly. Locate the cotter pin hole and loosen the nut just enough to get the cotter pin started. DO NOT TIGHTEN to insert the cotter pin. Note: It is easier if you start the cotter pin and then slightly bend it to get it to go down thru the hole. Might require tapping with a hammer to get it to completely seat with the head down in the slot of the nut. Bend the cotter key and cut off excess so it does not touch or interfere with the hub cap with the rubber insert. Using a pc of wood or steel to cover the entire hub cap and a hammer, re-install the hub cap.
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Old 11-03-2013, 11:00 AM   #9
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One can cover the threads of the spindle with masking tape or tape some old newspaper over the threads.
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Old 11-03-2013, 11:14 AM   #10
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Thank you. Though, that sounds a little iffy for my newbie automotive skills. However, I should probably learn it if I'm going to tackle the other long term maintenance items suggested by the manuals.

I'll try to remember to reply here later on what I did to solve this. Meanwhile, I'm going to try to find the proper Forest River contact number for my complaint. I wonder if driving 900 miles with the brakes in this position hurt anything.
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