Flagstaff Mac Alko brake adjustment

Captain Stress · 11-02-2013, 08:59 PM

I'm trying to follow the instructions included with my Flagstaff MAC 206ST popup to adjust the brakes. The instructions are in a manual by AL-KO. Step 2 reads:

"Locate the adjusting slot at the bottom of the backing plate and remove the protective cover"

I have two problems with this. One: The backing plate on one wheel has the adjustment slot vertical, in the nine o'clock position. The adjustment slot on the other wheel is on the bottom, per the instructions. Two: The adjustment "slot" is actually two, close together oval shaped holes in the backing plate with NO protective covers.

Is the lack of protective covers a problem? Is the fact that the star wheel is on its side on one brake okay? Why was one installed differently than the other?

OldCoot · 11-02-2013, 09:10 PM

Two options, take it back to the dealer and have him fix it. The other option is to remove the wheel & hub from the side with the slots @ 9 o'clock, remove the 4 nuts holding the backing plate, rotate the backing plate to where the slots are on the bottom and re-assemble. As for the slots not having rubber/plastic plugs, you can get those at an auto parts store. They need to be covered to keep water, debris out altho it's not a critical issue.

Captain Stress · 11-02-2013, 10:44 PM

Wow, that sucks. I can't believe this passed the "pre-delivery inspection" at Forest River. Oh wait, yes I can--based on numerous other goofs I've found.

It seems to still work okay with the magnet on the side instead of the bottom. I better call AL-KO on Monday to make sure it is okay to keep driving like that though. I've gone about 900 miles so far. Braking seems a little light even with the power turned all the way up on the brake controller. Hence, me wanting to adjust the brakes.

Picture of the wheel with the adjuster on its side attached.

kandl · 11-03-2013, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Stress

Picture of the wheel with the adjuster on its side attached.

In the immortal words of Homer Simpson... Dooohhh!

Ford Idaho · 11-03-2013, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Stress

Wow, that sucks. I can't believe this passed the "pre-delivery inspection" at Forest River. Oh wait, yes I can--based on numerous other goofs I've found.

It seems to still work okay with the magnet on the side instead of the bottom. I better call AL-KO on Monday to make sure it is okay to keep driving like that though. I've gone about 900 miles so far. Braking seems a little light even with the power turned all the way up on the brake controller. Hence, me wanting to adjust the brakes.

Picture of the wheel with the adjuster on its side attached.

If it is still under warranty I suggest you take it back to the dealer AFTER you send pictures to the factory people.

If the warranty is done then OldCoot has you covered.

OldCoot · 11-03-2013, 07:01 AM

If the dealer is over 30 minutes away and you have the time/tools, I'd do it myself and not waste the time and effort with the dealer. In the end, it will be just as good as if the dealer did the repair if not better. He will do the same thing as suggested. You can do the repair in less time than hooking up and unhooking would take.

Captain Stress · 11-03-2013, 10:35 AM

Old Coot: I'd love to take care of this myself, as I have other items that were messed up by the factory. My dealer is over an hour away and quotes me three weeks for any kind of warranty work.

Can you be more detailed in your instructions? When you say remove the wheel and hub, does removing the hub entail pulling a cotter pin, pulling the seal, washing bearings, and repacking afterward? If so, I've never done that kind of work and will probably have to let the dealer take this one. (I have easy lube axles. I think they are called UltraLube by AL-KO.)

Thanks.

OldCoot · 11-03-2013, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Stress

Old Coot: I'd love to take care of this myself, as I have other items that were messed up by the factory. My dealer is over an hour away and quotes me three weeks for any kind of warranty work.

Can you be more detailed in your instructions? When you say remove the wheel and hub, does removing the hub entail pulling a cotter pin, pulling the seal, washing bearings, and repacking afterward? If so, I've never done that kind of work and will probably have to let the dealer take this one. (I have easy lube axles. I think they are called UltraLube by AL-KO.)

Thanks.

It's a matter of jacking up the trailer with the other wheel chocked in both directions, removing the hub cap, removing the cap with the rubber insert, removing the cotter pin, removing the castellated nut and very carefully remove the wheel/tire/hub assy as one unit. Removing the 4 nuts holding the backing plate on, rotating the backing plate and re-bolting the backing plate. As for re-installing the hub/wheel/tire assembly, very carefully lift the assembly up and onto the spindle. DO NOT let the seal touch the threaded portion of the spindle as it will damage the seal. Slide the assy back on the spindle, re-install the flat washer and nut. FINGER tighten the nut. Rotate the wheel and using a wrench or pliers, snug the nut very slightly. Locate the cotter pin hole and loosen the nut just enough to get the cotter pin started. DO NOT TIGHTEN to insert the cotter pin. Note: It is easier if you start the cotter pin and then slightly bend it to get it to go down thru the hole. Might require tapping with a hammer to get it to completely seat with the head down in the slot of the nut. Bend the cotter key and cut off excess so it does not touch or interfere with the hub cap with the rubber insert. Using a pc of wood or steel to cover the entire hub cap and a hammer, re-install the hub cap.

Ford Idaho · 11-03-2013, 11:00 AM

One can cover the threads of the spindle with masking tape or tape some old newspaper over the threads.

Captain Stress · 11-03-2013, 11:14 AM

Thank you. Though, that sounds a little iffy for my newbie automotive skills. However, I should probably learn it if I'm going to tackle the other long term maintenance items suggested by the manuals.

I'll try to remember to reply here later on what I did to solve this. Meanwhile, I'm going to try to find the proper Forest River contact number for my complaint. I wonder if driving 900 miles with the brakes in this position hurt anything.

OldCoot · 11-03-2013, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Stress

Thank you. Though, that sounds a little iffy for my newbie automotive skills. However, I should probably learn it if I'm going to tackle the other long term maintenance items suggested by the manuals.

I'll try to remember to reply here later on what I did to solve this. Meanwhile, I'm to try to find the proper Forest River contact number for my complaint. I wonder if driving 900 miles with the brakes in this position hurt anything.

You might inquire at a local garage what they would charge and if they do it, watch very closely. It really isn't very difficult, but I understand your hesitancy.

Captain Stress · 11-17-2013, 08:02 PM

Posting an update on this...

I called AL-KO about the brake on one wheel being installed with the magnet and adjustment screw pointing toward the front of the camper versus the bottom. The person said it wouldn't hurt anything. But, if I want, I can just undo the nuts from the bolts on the backing plate and rotate the brake assembly in place without removing the tire, hub, etc. I was very surprised regarding both of these comments.

I don't think it is truly okay to have the brakes installed differently than the installation instructions. Therefore, I attempted rotating the brakes from behind the wheel as he instructed. It was impossible. The bolts do not clear the backing plate enough when pushing inward in order to rotate the brake housing.

I'm either going to follow OldCoot's instructions now or take it to the dealer. Darn.

OldCoot · 11-17-2013, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Stress

Posting an update on this...

I called AL-KO about the brake on one wheel being installed with the magnet and adjustment screw pointing toward the front of the camper versus the bottom. The person said it wouldn't hurt anything. But, if I want, I can just undo the nuts from the bolts on the backing plate and rotate the brake assembly in place without removing the tire, hub, etc. I was very surprised regarding both of these comments.

I don't think it is truly okay to have the brakes installed differently than the installation instructions. Therefore, I attempted rotating the brakes from behind the wheel as he instructed. It was impossible. The bolts do not clear the backing plate enough when pushing inward in order to rotate the brake housing.

I'm either going to follow OldCoot's instructions now or take it to the dealer. Darn.

It's really not hard to do, just take your time. Another 5 minutes and you would of had it finished.

kandl · 11-18-2013, 02:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Stress

I called AL-KO about the brake on one wheel being installed with the magnet and adjustment screw pointing toward the front of the camper versus the bottom. The person said it wouldn't hurt anything.

Concur with OC in that if you got as far as attempting to rotate the brake assy, pulling the drum is not a heck of lot more complicated than that. And for moi, I'd be itching to see that everything else behind the drum is as it should be.

I think the Al-KO person gave you the bum's rush. I've never been a party to e-brake engineering but I suspect that magnet is at the six o'clock position for a specific reason. It's freely suspended at that location and does not bear on the leading or trailing brake shoes. Rotate the backing plate to 3 or 9 o'clock, and the weight of that magnet, magnified by the actuating arm, will be bearing on the shoes. Not much, but will there be premature wear? Maybe some excess flatulence here but the consensus of millions of drum brake applications out there suggest that AL-KO got it wrong.

Captain Stress · 12-14-2013, 11:56 PM

I finally took OldCoot's advice and just fixed the brakes myself.

His instructions were great and everything went as planned. The only thing I'm worried about is the tightness of the castle nut. I tightened it with a wrench slowly while rotating the hub until the hub no longer turned. Then I backed off the nut until the nut was loose again. Finally, I finger tightened it, though not with force. The cotter pin hole happened to be at the finger tight position. I didn't need to back it off any. Though, I'm wondering if I should have backed off one hole for good measure.

People say to check the temp of the hub to make sure it is not getting too hot on your first trip afterward. I'm not sure what too hot means in degrees, but I have one of those infrared temperature devices that I'll take with me on my next trip and make sure the right side doesn't differ too much from the left.

Thanks!

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