Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-06-2018, 11:03 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: 8300 Feet - Rocky Mountains
Posts: 2,473
Freshwater Tank Support

For the rare few who have FR PUPS with the right frame design, this freshwater tank support does a great job and is super easy to fabricate and install (and remove if needed).

Parts:
  • 1/2" galvanized water pipe;
  • 2 clevis pins;
  • 2 x 1/2" pipe clamps to fit the galvanized;
  • 10" to 12" square 1/2" plywood;
  • rubber front-door door mat - soft;
  • adhesive to bond the plywood and door mat material;
  • black paint (or pink if that's your thing" .

This takes advantage of the under-frame guides that route gas lines, etc. See propane line routed through guide on the far side.

The photo depicts the installation. This has been field tested under very arduous conditions, and the 1/2" water pipe is strong enough to support the tank when fully loaded with water. The thickness of the pad and plywood lifts the tank slightly when empty, so the deflection of the pipe under a full load actually returns the tank to its normal position. The pipe deflects about 1/2" under load...far less than the tank bulged without the support.

I wish I had thought of this sooner. I have a tiny crack in my tank due to years of traveling over very rough terrain with a full tank. Fortunately, FR says a replacement tank is $94. Looks like a piece of cake to replace.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Fresh Water Support.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	51.2 KB
ID:	182521  
__________________
Jim & Renee
2020 Jayco Jay Feather X-213
previously 2014 Forest River/Rockwood HW 277
2006 Ram 1500 4WD Crew with Firestone Airbags
Every weekend boondocking in the National Forests or at Lake Vallecito.
jimmoore13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2018, 06:18 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
SeaDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: x
Posts: 12,423
Great fix for something that should have been addressed at the factory. thanks for sharing
__________________
Retired Navy
Jake my sidekick (yellow Lab) 10/04 - 05/20
2017 RAM 2500 CC 4X4 Cummins Diesel
2016 Flagstaff 26 FKWS
AF&AM & El Korah Shrine of Idaho
SeaDog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2018, 06:25 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
nomad297's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,053
Whatever happened to Mr. Havercamp?

Bruce
__________________
2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond Edition
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
nomad297 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2018, 08:48 AM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 43
I noticed the middle of my tank is beginning to sag a bit - this might help with that and help provide support so no issues arise. Thanks for sharing this!
tcbrady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2018, 05:43 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 43
Bummed to discover that I'm unable to do this mod since my underneath doesn't match. Booo! I'll have to see if there's another way to rig some sort of support.
__________________
2021 Flagstaff Shamrock 21SS
2020 Jeep Gladiator

tcbrady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2018, 11:24 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: 8300 Feet - Rocky Mountains
Posts: 2,473
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcbrady View Post
Bummed to discover that I'm unable to do this mod since my underneath doesn't match. Booo! I'll have to see if there's another way to rig some sort of support.
I'm not sure how your tank is configured, but if you want to add the "hangars" that look something like mine for the pipe-mounted support, that would not be that difficult. Some 1/4" to 1/8" plate steel, about 3 self tapping hex head screws (per side), and a 1/2" drill with a 1" bit would do the job. If you have an I-beam frame, it would be easier, because you could use a short length of 2" to 3" angle iron to make a hanger tab and bolt it to the bottom of the frame.

The hardest part would be drilling the 1" hole for the water pipe. As a large bit penetrates steel, it really bites and will twist your arm off. If you have a corded 1/2" drill with a side handle, get a length of pipe that will slide over the side handle to extend it to about 18" to 24" in length. Use something like a folded pair of jeans or other heavy fabric between this handle extension and your shin to protect it and hold on tightly. Or, better yet, bring the plate to someone who has a drill press and save yourself the cost of the handle extension and 1" cut-down bit...pretty costly.

Attach these brackets to the outside of the frame with the self-tapping screws and some permanent (I think "red") Loctite.

Many other tank configurations do not hang down as mine does. They are flush or nearly flush with the supports going between frame members. It's possible to make bracing out of something like 1 1/2" angle iron (available at any hardware store) that goes fore-and-aft between these main tank supports. You might need to add some spacers...depending on thickness, the spacers might even be wood...to get the angle iron low enough to fit under and support the tank and join with the main supports.

Be sure to bevel the ends of your new angle-iron supports so that they will ride up and over rather than catching on rocks, roots, etc that you might encounter in rough terrain...if you're carrying water, you are boondocking after all.

My tank is supported with something like 3" x 3" heavy sheet metal angle iron. Each side of the tank is buffered with a piece of wood as a space filler. That wood allows for safe drilling through the sheet angle without puncturing the tank (if you mount with self-tappers)...or you can empty the tank and drop the angle down to where you can work on it so you can do it right and use bolts with nylock nuts. If you used bolts and nuts, just use a drill with a forstner or paddle bit to "relieve" a spot in that wood buffer for the bolt head.

I'd recommend adding some rubber floor mat to your new angle iron support to protect the tank from chaffing against your new steel support. Some good adhesive should bond the rubber to the steel.

Lots of conjecture in this concept, but I've heard of others doing this kind of modification to help support the tank. It's the large, unsupported open spans of plastic tank that really need help. 20 gallons of water, at 8.3 pounds per gallon, weighs about 160 pounds or so. That's a lot to ask of a chunk of plastic. I'm looking at a small hard side that has a 43 gallon fresh tank. That's over 350 pounds in a very large plastic tank. One additional cross support can make a HUGE difference in the tank's durability, and it doesn't add much weight to the trailer. If I buy this rig, I'll do this modification day one...probably at least two extra supports.
__________________
Jim & Renee
2020 Jayco Jay Feather X-213
previously 2014 Forest River/Rockwood HW 277
2006 Ram 1500 4WD Crew with Firestone Airbags
Every weekend boondocking in the National Forests or at Lake Vallecito.
jimmoore13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
tank, water, water tank


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:56 AM.