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Old 07-14-2018, 09:47 PM   #1
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Fridge on d/c power

I have a 2016 rockwood hw pop up
When I switch fridge over to d/c power from a/c Before we travel there is a beeping noise coming from the fuse box area. Won’t stop till either I turn fridge back to propane or back to a/c power. Was thinking my batteries might not be charged enough. I have tested them and they are ok.
Is there any one that might know what this beeping is being caused by? Fridge won’t stay in d/c Any help would be appreciated
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Old 07-14-2018, 09:53 PM   #2
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I could be wrong, but unless you have a residential fridge, it won't run on DC. They run on a/c or propane, but you do need battery power on propane to ignite the propane.
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Old 07-14-2018, 10:40 PM   #3
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I could be wrong, but unless you have a residential fridge, it won't run on DC. They run on a/c or propane, but you do need battery power on propane to ignite the propane.
Does a residential fridge run on dc?? The OP has a highwall popup, they come with three way fridges that can run on dc, ac or propane.
to the OP, Sorry I can't answer your question. If it is still under warranty, I would take it to the dealer. (I also found that while I was able to use the dc to run the fridge, the charge from the tow vehicle was not sufficient to keep the battery charged when traveling. Trips longer than four hours would have the battery depleted to the point that the fridge would be flashing the error code, so it was not much use. I traveled with the propane on.)
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Old 07-14-2018, 10:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qball View Post
I have a 2016 rockwood hw pop up
When I switch fridge over to d/c power from a/c Before we travel there is a beeping noise coming from the fuse box area. Won’t stop till either I turn fridge back to propane or back to a/c power. Was thinking my batteries might not be charged enough. I have tested them and they are ok.
Is there any one that might know what this beeping is being caused by? Fridge won’t stay in d/c Any help would be appreciated
Since you have a 3-way fridge, for it to run on batteries, they have to be fully charged before traveling.
The DC side is meant for travel since the tow vehicle will supply enough 12v power to keep the batteries charged.

How did you "test" them? With a multimeter? Was the shore cord plugged in when you tested them?
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Old 07-14-2018, 11:24 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
Since you have a 3-way fridge, for it to run on batteries, they have to be fully charged before traveling.
The DC side is meant for travel since the tow vehicle will supply enough 12v power to keep the batteries charged.

How did you "test" them? With a multimeter? Was the shore cord plugged in when you tested them?
Yes the dc side is meant for travel, but the charge from my tow vehicle could not keep the battery charged when running the fridge on dc. Just my experience.
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:52 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by GalsofEscape View Post
Does a residential fridge run on dc?? The OP has a highwall popup, they come with three way fridges that can run on dc, ac or propane.
Sorry. Should have read that question more closely.
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Old 07-15-2018, 09:35 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
Since you have a 3-way fridge, for it to run on batteries, they have to be fully charged before traveling.
The DC side is meant for travel since the tow vehicle will supply enough 12v power to keep the batteries charged.

How did you "test" them? With a multimeter? Was the shore cord plugged in when you tested them?
I charged them the night before with a shore line. Then right before we travel I switch over to DC. Beeping will start a few minutes after I unplug shore line. I have hooked batteries up to a trickle charger and each battery has ended up fully charged and charger says battery has no problems.
I have heard of vehicles not being able to keep batteries charged while driving but I can barley unplug my shore line before the DC mode does not work. Lol
Good thing is We only travel 3-4 hours to camp so fridge stays cold for that duration till we set up and turn on propane.
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:47 PM   #8
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I see you are towing with a Nissan Titan. If your TV has a tow/haul mode then using it will boost the output of the alternator sending more power to the batteries.
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:48 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Qball View Post
I charged them the night before with a shore line. Then right before we travel I switch over to DC. Beeping will start a few minutes after I unplug shore line. I have hooked batteries up to a trickle charger and each battery has ended up fully charged and charger says battery has no problems.
I have heard of vehicles not being able to keep batteries charged while driving but I can barley unplug my shore line before the DC mode does not work. Lol
Good thing is We only travel 3-4 hours to camp so fridge stays cold for that duration till we set up and turn on propane.
You need to test each battery cell with a hydrometer.
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:10 PM   #10
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If the battery in your unit is the original, it could be 4 yrs old. Unless it has been taken care of, it may not support any kind of load. Checking the battery voltage immediately after removing the charger will not provide an accurate picture of the batteries actual condition as you are measuring surface charge ( surface charge is depleted rapidly when under load). Suggest you take battery to an auto store to have it load tested. Even on a full battery three way fridges are least efficient on battery power.
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:55 PM   #11
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For whatever reason, your pop-up battery is not supporting the load of the fridge on DC. The voltage is dropping, and the CO/propane alarm low voltage alarm is going off (what I suspect is happening). Most probable cause is the battery is too weak - been through too many discharges - to support the fridge load (probably 8-10 amps). The alarm could also have too high a threshold - but you say the fridge switches itself off when on DC. This is also a likely result of insufficient DC voltage.

If the alarm continues to sound while hooked up to the tow vehicle, then that says there is insufficient current through the 12V charge line to support the fridge. This could easily be a bad connection at the 7 pin plug, or a blown fuse in the tow vehicle charge line.

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Old 07-15-2018, 02:34 PM   #12
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Must say 1st experience on this site. And what a great experience. Never believed in these forums but must say spent hours looking at other people’s experience and questions. Very helpful to me and answered a lot of questions I don’t need to ask now 😃
But still have a few other issues I will be asking. Thanks everyone and responding. Been very helpful and saves hundreds of dollars by fixing things my self. 👍🏻
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Old 07-15-2018, 09:40 PM   #13
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Have you checked the 7 pin plug to be sure the wire is hot i think its the white one and if no power the fuse usually in the fuse box under the hood.

that was the problem i had on my old popup
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Old 07-15-2018, 09:45 PM   #14
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Must say 1st experience on this site. And what a great experience. Never believed in these forums but must say spent hours looking at other people’s experience and questions. Very helpful to me and answered a lot of questions I don’t need to ask now 😃
But still have a few other issues I will be asking. Thanks everyone and responding. Been very helpful and saves hundreds of dollars by fixing things my self. 👍🏻
This forum surprises many new members with its rapid response. As a site team member, I can tell you some members come here, ask a question, then check back a week later to see if anyone happened to answer. When they DO log back in, they find 5-8 answers posted in the first hour after the original post. I have actually sent PMs in some cases asking "Are you watching your thread? You're getting good answers."
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Old 07-16-2018, 10:52 AM   #15
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You need to test each battery cell with a hydrometer.
Yup! Only way to find a weak cell. Oh, and I second what Fred said above.
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