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Old 11-12-2011, 11:14 AM   #11
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Triguy-what I meant by "covering the battery cable ends" was that if I decided to go the "no battery" route and plugged into shore power, then those cables would be live (yes?) and I wouldn't want them to short out on the frame or whatever. However, an RV guy told me that using shore power without a battery would be bad for the converter. Is that true?

Electrician549-interesting. So you went without a battery for years. Are you saying you used shore power just once during that time, or most of that time? If so, did you have a problems with your trailer due to using shore power without a battery?

Gary
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:51 AM   #12
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I used shore power off and on over the years and never had a problem with my inverter. Sometimes we would dry camp three or four times a year with out using shore power and no battery. Occasionally we would go camping were shore power was available maybe once every two years sometimes three. The last trip we took in the Coachmen in October 2010 was with shore power. I taped off the negative and positive leads separately and kept them in the battery box for protection. Once we knew we were going to have shore power I would inspect the wiring to make sure it was in suitable condition. We only used the propane furnace in the first couple years after that I was nervous about using it with out checking for leaks in the propane sytem so we started using a ceramic space heater.
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:57 AM   #13
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Thanks, this is very helpful!
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:49 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by kuhnsmith View Post
Triguy-what I meant by "covering the battery cable ends" was that if I decided to go the "no battery" route and plugged into shore power, then those cables would be live (yes?) and I wouldn't want them to short out on the frame or whatever. However, an RV guy told me that using shore power without a battery would be bad for the converter. Is that true?
I get it now. You might want to look at this thread on the topic of using a battery or not when on shore power.
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:12 PM   #15
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Thanks for the thread. I checked it out and it seems to mostly be concerned with electric slides and batteries vs shore power. However, it looks like it may be possible to go without a battery in my case. I think I'll call Forest River just to make sure.

Gary
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:18 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by kuhnsmith View Post
Triguy-what I meant by "covering the battery cable ends" was that if I decided to go the "no battery" route and plugged into shore power, then those cables would be live (yes?) and I wouldn't want them to short out on the frame or whatever. However, an RV guy told me that using shore power without a battery would be bad for the converter. Is that true?

Electrician549-interesting. So you went without a battery for years. Are you saying you used shore power just once during that time, or most of that time? If so, did you have a problems with your trailer due to using shore power without a battery?

Gary
It can be extremely hard on the converter. We set-up and somehow blew the fuse on the battery, but did not know it. All of sudden we started having electronic issues. anytime anything kicked on we blew breakers all over. The system needs the battery to distribute load, the converter is just not strong enough to run everything.

If you are worried about weight, you might look at these:
XS Power
can cut up to 1/2 the weight.
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Old 11-18-2011, 06:24 PM   #17
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That's interesting, and I'll check out the link you sent.

Now I'm a bit confused because I called the tech. guy at Forest River and he told me a battery ISN'T necessary in my case. He said that on my '98 Freedom 1620 that shore power doesn't re-charge the pup battery, only the connection to my tow vehicle does (though in my case I don't have it set up to do that). He said I should just make sure to tape up the battery leads in the event I ever wire my tow vehicle to charge the battery.
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:17 PM   #18
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That's interesting, and I'll check out the link you sent.

Now I'm a bit confused because I called the tech. guy at Forest River and he told me a battery ISN'T necessary in my case. He said that on my '98 Freedom 1620 that shore power doesn't re-charge the pup battery, only the connection to my tow vehicle does (though in my case I don't have it set up to do that). He said I should just make sure to tape up the battery leads in the event I ever wire my tow vehicle to charge the battery.
I can see why you are confused. The "guy" at FR's advice does seem to fly in the face of other guidance available on numerous web sites including the power center manufacturer. As I have said many times in the past, "Caveat Lector" or "Let the reader beware" You get all the advice you can, then make your own call as to what is the correct course of action.
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Old 11-19-2011, 12:22 AM   #19
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You could plug the trailer into the shore power and measure the voltage between the battery terminals with a voltage meter. This should determine if the FR guy is correct or not.
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Old 11-19-2011, 12:57 AM   #20
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Removing the battery to shave 40# from your truck is not going to make much of a difference in fuel mileage, the battery is electrical insurance as stated above.

That's like saying you would run with a half full tank of gas/fuel and shave off a lot more weight than that, but similarily your inconveniences of having to stop twice as often outweighs the benefits of the lighter weight.

Keep your battery, you just never know when you will need it.
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