How do you drain the water lines?

[CundiffClan]

Hi everyone, I have a 2011 Rockwood HW 296. I was wondering how you drain the water lines after hooking up to city water? I cant find a low point drain valve anywhere. Do you pull the anode in the hotwater heater? Any help would be appreciated.

Cal

[grandmapaula]

We have a 2011 Lexington motorhome. Our drain valve is under the bed. Not the most convenient but better than under the motorhome I suppose. We Just lift up the bed to get to the storage space and there it is.

[bikendan]

you can locate the low point drains on most RVs, by finding the drains underneath and following them back to where the valves are.
my low point drain valves are just above the drains, inside under the sofa.

[ittle dew]

The HW 296 is a pop-up correct?

In my pop-up the low point drains are under the sink close to the interior wall right behind the converter.

They are close enough to the interior wall that I didn't know they were there until I went under the camper looking for them for winterizing and found the outlets. I saw about where they should be and had to feel around for them because I could not see them through the small access door.

There was one for the hot line and one for the cold. They had the same type of valve as the hot water heater bypass valves.

I wish I knew THAT earlier in the season

Hope it helps

[CundiffClan]

I appreciate the responses! I should have added that it is a popup.

[backpacker3]

Mine are also under the sink inside the cabinet. My last camper I had to look all over for them and found them on the underside rear of the camper. Usually after a camping trip, I pull the anode from the HW heater and open the drains and open the sink faucets to allow air in the lines so the water can drain better.

[vcarbona]

I have a Rockwood HW276 and the "low point drain" is actually the same as the fresh water drain. It's under the city water inlet and at the side of the fresh water tank under the camper. As far as the hot water tank, mine has an anode tube which doubles as the hot water plug. I had to go out and buy an 1 1/16 inch socket to be able to open it and drain it. After relieving the pressure first, I simply removed the plug and let the water drain. I rinsed off the anode tube and replaced/rescrewed it back on. Let me know if you need more info since your model is very close to mine.

Thanks

P.S. I store mine in the garage for the winter.

[CundiffClan]

Thanks Vcarbona,
I started digging around more and found two drain holes underneath that was flush with the floor. I followed that up inside the cabinet that my tv stand was on directly behind the city water inlet. I had to cut a little piece out of the buffer board in the backside of the cabinet space, and there were two T handles attached to the hot and cold water lines. I pulled up and the water started to drain. I still have to pull the anode rod to get water out of HWH. When you pull the anode, does the water drain out of your filter?

[vcarbona]

Well as I said the hot water heater drain also has the anode tube attached to it. It's essentially one of the same. I'll see if I can send you a pic of where it's located.

[CundiffClan]

I will post some pictures also to compare. Thanks.

[DogandTrailer]

Can you use the air blower adapter and blow them out with an air compressor?

[vcarbona]

Yes we can do that to hot and cold water lines but the water inside the hot water heater should be drained and the anode tube inspected and replaced if necessary. I'm not sure it's a good idea to air blow the water inside the hot water heater out with a compressor unless it's to clear out the water lines between tank and the bypass valves and even then I would do that with hot water heater tank plug off to allow the air pressure to escape. My worry would be that the hot water tank could be filled with air and the air pressure could cause something to crack inside the tank.

[vcarbona]

The round thing on the bottom center is the hot water tank plug and anode tube. Get a socket wrench and unscrew to drain and also to reveal the anode tube.

[Fire Instructor]

You will need to drain the filter separately. Be carfel not to "spill" when unscrewing the jar. I don't really have room to put much of a pan under it when unscrewing it, and the area below it is an area that they ran carpet to, so I have to be VERY careful. I then bypass the filter by disconnecting the lines going to either side of it, and connecting them together with a plastic double male that I picked up at the local hardware store.

Then when I pump the pink-stuff through the system, I'm not using half a gallon to fill the filter jar, plus I don't have to worry about spilling again in the Spring. I've heard of others that fill the jar with washed stone or marbles to minimize using the extra anti-freeze, but for me, it's just easier to bypass.

In the Spring, I may buy the three valves and the fittings that I'd need to plumb a bypass on the filter, but that's a low priority project.

[CundiffClan]

Fire Instructor,

Wow! I got down and took a look at my filter and you are right! This is going to be a challenge unscrewing it without getting everything wet.

[thehamguy1]

I used a silicon baking pan to catch any spills. It's flexible enough to get under the filter and rigid enough to hold it if I do spill. Also it was a place to let the filter drain once I got it out.

[vcarbona]

Originally Posted by CundiffClan

Fire Instructor,

Wow! I got down and took a look at my filter and you are right! This is going to be a challenge unscrewing it without getting everything wet.

If the lines are drained and subsequently depressurized, it shouldn't be too bad. Just have a rag handy to clean up spills. After loosening the filter with the water filter wrench, use both hands to unscrew the filter until it comes off to minimize spillage.

[CundiffClan]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! When the camper gets back from shop, I'll do a winterizing test run.