How to de-winterize my camper

[Kasimar1]

I have a 2005 Rockwood Premier M2302 pop-up camper. Last fall I took my camper to the local Rockwood dealer and had it winterized. I'd like to de-winterize it myself so I know how to do it moving forward and I don't have to pay the dealer to do it. My camper has a shower / cassette toilet combo, outside shower and a hot water heater. As I understand it to de-winterize my camper I need to flush the system of the anti-freeze, but I am not sure in what order I should be doing things. Also I've heard that as part of the winterizing process the hot water heater bypass has been turned on. I'm unclear as to how to reverse this process (where is the switch?). Are there instructions out there that are specific to Rockwood pop-up campers?

[Roo Campers]

I am sure you will get a detailed plan but to get you started basically drain your fresh water tank then fill with clean water or hook up city water turn on all taps and run till clear no specific order only after you flush out the anti freeze switch you hot water tank bypass back to the fill then flush the whole system with a bit of bleach to sanitize

[TURBS]

Summerize position for water heater valves

[TURBS]

1/4 cup of bleach for every 15 gallons.

[Kasimar1]

When you talk of flushing the system with a bit of bleach. Do I pour the bleach in my fresh water tank, disconnect the city water, turn on the water pump and then flush the fresh water tank. Is that correct? Oh, also how do I know how big my fresh water tank is?

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Kasimar1

When you talk of flushing the system with a bit of bleach. Do I pour the bleach in my fresh water tank, disconnect the city water, turn on the water pump and then flush the fresh water tank. Is that correct?

Yes install bleach in fw tank and fill it with water.
Flush all lines then let it sit over night before draining.
Refill tank and flush again.

[Triguy]

Originally Posted by Kasimar1

Oh, also how do I know how big my fresh water tank is?

The current year Premiers show 26 gallons, which should include a 20gl tank and 6gl water heater.

Here's a 2004 Rockwood Popup manual that will help you learn your systems. The FRF library also has various other items that might match your trailer (e.g., stove top, water heater, fridge, etc)

Happy camping!

[KyDan]

The water heater is the most puzzling aspect of this process!

Many before you have asked this question!
First we can't be specific because we aren't familiar with your exact trailer.
You should know that your water heater might have
one or two or three valves more or less hidden in the back of the water heater that need
to be moved from winterize position to the normal summer use position.

Assuming your dealer did it correctly last Fall, you should find your valves
and move each one to the other position. Each will have a plastic handle
that needs to be turned 90 degrees one way or the other.

If you take a picture of the rear of your water heater and post it here
we can be more specific.

Also there is a drain plug which might have an anode rod attached
that you need to place back in the drain hole on the front side of
your water heater.

Then there's the issue of - is your water heater gas only or is it dual heat
gas and electric? Be SURE you have filled the water heater with water
before turning on either the gas or electric heat!

If you take photos or post your water heater model number we can
point you to owners manual for it.

Check out the water heater FAQ here--
Water Heaters - Forest River Forums

[mTn_biKer65]

Here's the process I've been using which has worked great for me. I've included the link to the full article at the bottom:

"Now, let's deal with the plumbing! If you don't have fresh water available where your rig is stored, then you need to move it. We need to flush out the plumbing system, especially if RV antifreeze was used. One possibility is to take the rig to a local RV Park or campground and use their water and sewer hookups. Hook up your water hose and fill your fresh water tank. Run your water pump and open each faucet in the rig one at a time and allow water to flow for a minute or so. If you used antifreeze, let the water flow until all color and odor is gone. Don't forget the toilet and the shower! Remember to open your gray water dump valve before you get too carried away! Turn off the water pump and hook up your hose to the city water inlet. Run some more water through the system to get that last bit of antifreeze out, then unhook the hose again. Be sure not to un-bypass the water heater until you've flushed all the lines. To put your bypassed water heater back in service, reset the valves for normal operation and make sure that the drain plug is in or that the drain valve is closed. Now run the water pump and open a hot water faucet. Once the water heater tank is full, shut all faucets and wait until the pump turns off. Listen for a few minutes to make sure that the pump does not cycle again. If the pump cycles on and off repeatedly, it may indicate a leak somewhere in your fresh water plumbing. If a leak is suspected, take a flashlight and visually inspect all the plumbing under your sinks and see if you can spot any leaks. Look carefully in compartments and inside of cupboards and storage areas until you find the drip. Fix any leaks before continuing.

Now, let's sterilize your fresh water tank and plumbing. Mix about a cup of plain household bleach in a gallon of water. Pour this mixture into your fresh water tank and top it off with the hose. Turn on the water pump and run each faucet until you can plainly smell the chlorine. Top off the fresh water tank again and let the system set for at least a few hours, longer is better. Then, drain the fresh water tank and refill with clean water. Flush the system out by running the clean water through each faucet again. Use lots of water, until the chlorine smell is gone.

This procedure will usually result in clean, odor free water in your RV. If you have problems with lingering antifreeze taste or chlorine odor, you can re-flush the system using I cup of baking soda dissolved into 1 gallon of water and follow the same procedure as above."

De-winterizing your RV (and yourself!)

[bradnailer]

Regarding the water heater, I pull the anode after every trip and flush and drain the hot water heater. I've found that regardless of where we camp, there is a build up of calcium in the tank. Takes me about a minute to pull the anode.

[vkwood]

Is this the same process for a Roo 23SS? I'm a newbie. Winterized for the first time, and now we are de-winterizing for the first time. I'll take any help or step-by-step instructions that may exist.

A couple of questions. It looks like after flushing, we fill the hot water tank, and then santize the fresh water system. Do we completely fill the fresh water tank for the sanitization process, and then do we completely fill it again and flush it

[Kasimar1]

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone for all of your helpful advice. I’m going to try and de-winterize my camper this weekend presuming the weather will cooperate. Really looking forward to our 1st camping trip of the season on Memorial Day weekend.

[Kasimar1]

I just thought of something regarding this process. What do I do with the antifreeze when I flush the system? Can I dump it down the sink drain in my house?

[Capt. Mike]

Originally Posted by Kasimar1

I just thought of something regarding this process. What do I do with the antifreeze when I flush the system? Can I dump it down the sink drain in my house?

Yes, the pink anti-freeze is eco-friendly. Even easier, if you can do it, is to hook up your grey water tank to a sewer dump (like in a campground) and dump it while you are flushing the system.

[Kasimar1]

Is there a trick for putting the drain plug back in for the hot water heater? I appear to be doing something wrong because I can't seem to get mine back in. Does it screw back in the normal way?

[jrs_diesel]

Yes, it just screws back in. Just check and make sure that both sets of threads are not damaged, and that you aren't cross threading it.

[Kasimar1]

Also, is the end of the rod supposed to line up with something inside of the water heater? I'm wondering if that is part of my problem.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Kasimar1

Also, is the end of the rod supposed to line up with something inside of the water heater? I'm wondering if that is part of my problem.

No, but gravity is not your friend when trying to get the threads started.

You have to hold the anode "level" while trying to start the threads.

[Rebel702]

Originally Posted by Kasimar1

Also, is the end of the rod supposed to line up with something inside of the water heater? I'm wondering if that is part of my problem.

No the rod is suspended inside the HW tank. Try cleaning the threads with WD40. I also use teflon tape on the threads for a good seal.

Also, remember to flush the outside shower since it will also have anti-freeze.

<I see Herk got the answer posted as I typed.>

[Kasimar1]

I cleaned the threads and applied Teflon tape to the threads. I agree that gravity it not my friend and that is why I'm finding it hard to screw it in. I also need to go out and buy a socket to tighten it up (1 1/16 size I think).