HW296 AC under powered

Itwrx · 08-20-2018, 03:58 PM

Just got back from our first trip in our new (to us) 2015 HW 296. Evening worked great except the AC. While it “worked” it couldn’t cool the trailer enough to be comfortable. And the real concern is what it was only in the mid 80’s. Ok yes. I don’t need a bunch of post telling me mid 80’s with your window zipped makes for great camping. We did have to do that. That’s not the point. The point is it couldn’t even cool it in the 80’s. There is no chance it will ever work. The air blows ice cold. But cycles on and off. There was a much older Colman tent trailer next to us with their factory ac on as well. It was like a meet locker in theirs. So I know tent trailers an definitely get cool. Anyone else have a similar experience with their Rockwood with AC? I lm not positive but I believe it’s only 8,500 BTU? Any mods to improve it? Or am I just stuck and have to order a new 15,000 BTU AC?

**Flybob** · 08-20-2018, 04:15 PM

If if is blowing cold air it is working, the fact that it is cycling on and off is an indication of one of (or both) two things.

1. The cold air is blowing on the thermostat and cooling it and that area causing it to thinks the desired temp has been reached. If this is the case if possible deflect the cold air away from the thermostat or add a small fan to disperse the air better.

2. The AC was started in a very warm humid RV and the coils are icing up and causing it to cycle to thaw the ice. If this is the case, check the filter and the return air flow to insure the maximum air flow to help prevent the coils from freezing. You can also drop the interior temp slowly so as to remove humidity at a slower rate.

bshort · 08-20-2018, 04:18 PM

If it's 102 outside, our trailer will be 89 with the ac on. Trying to blow cold air into a hot box just isn't the best definition of efficient.

**bikendan** · 08-20-2018, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Itwrx

Just got back from our first trip in our new (to us) 2015 HW 296. Evening worked great except the AC. While it “worked” it couldn’t cool the trailer enough to be comfortable. And the real concern is what it was only in the mid 80’s. Ok yes. I don’t need a bunch of post telling me mid 80’s with your window zipped makes for great camping. We did have to do that. That’s not the point. The point is it couldn’t even cool it in the 80’s. There is no chance it will ever work. The air blows ice cold. But cycles on and off. There was a much older Colman tent trailer next to us with their factory ac on as well. It was like a meet locker in theirs. So I know tent trailers an definitely get cool. Anyone else have a similar experience with their Rockwood with AC? I lm not positive but I believe it’s only 8,500 BTU? Any mods to improve it? Or am I just stuck and have to order a new 15,000 BTU AC?

Are you using Popup Gizmos and Reflectix?
If not, they will help tremendously.

IonicBrick · 08-20-2018, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikendan

Are you using Popup Gizmos and Reflectix?
If not, they will help tremendously.

This. Works wonders.

Splitshaft · 08-20-2018, 11:43 PM

A lot of times an air conditioner is working perfectly well and the reason for its perceived poor performance is due to latent heat. The ice-cold air at the outlet is sensible heat, or the lack of it that is felt to include evaporation of moisture from the hand in the air flow from the duct that removes more energy making the air flow feel cold on skin. Latent heat is the heat that is not sensed or felt and comes mostly in the form of high humidity. The moisture that is condensing from the air is reducing the ability of the air conditioner to lower sensible temperatures. The warm moist air is loaded with heat energy that flows into the air conditioner evaporator leaving less cooling ability from the air coming out the duct.

In my opinion and experience, an 8,000 BTU air conditioner is too small for but the smallest of well insulated hard sided truck campers. Poor insulation combined with high humidity, an 8,000 BTU us AC is going to make mostly noise and little more.

Itwrx · 08-20-2018, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IonicBrick

This. Works wonders.

I have reflex up but no gizmos. However the Coleman pup had neither and like I said it felt like the inside of a meat locker. I did notice that it’s (Coleman) ac looked like every other as on any motor home/ travel trailer. Can anyone confirm the HW296 is only 8,500 BTU’s?

**bikendan** · 08-21-2018, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Itwrx

I have reflex up but no gizmos. However the Coleman pup had neither and like I said it felt like the inside of a meat locker. I did notice that it’s (Coleman) ac looked like every other as on any motor home/ travel trailer. Can anyone confirm the HW296 is only 8,500 BTU’s?

Standard is a 13.5k a/c.

GalsofEscape · 08-21-2018, 10:28 AM

our 2010 HW277 had the stadard 13.5K a/c. it did just fine (and we never got around to getting the gizmos or reflectix for it.).

**bikendan** · 08-21-2018, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GalsofEscape

our 2010 HW277 had the stadard 13.5K a/c. it did just fine (and we never got around to getting the gizmos or reflectix for it.).

Gals, you live in Maryland while the OP lives in the desert Southwest.
I'm sure they deal with much higher temperatures.

Itwrx · 08-21-2018, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GalsofEscape

our 2010 HW277 had the stadard 13.5K a/c. it did just fine (and we never got around to getting the gizmos or reflectix for it.).

How do I verify I have a 13,500 AC?

Bluepill · 08-21-2018, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Itwrx

How do I verify I have a 13,500 AC?

See if you can find a label on the unit somewhere. Google it for more info.

Having the unit constantly cycle is the problem you should solve first.

1. Have you set the thermostat to its lowest setting?

2. Is the thermostat built-in to the unit, or is it wall mounted somewhere else? If it is wall mounted, try putting a temporary baffle of some sort to direct the cold air discharge away from the thermostat. If it is built in to the unit, it is not unusual to have too much cycling because the thermostat is too close to the discharge.
Converting to a remote thermostat often solves the problem.

Itwrx · 08-21-2018, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluepill

See if you can find a label on the unit somewhere. Google it for more info.

Having the unit constantly cycle is the problem you should solve first.

1. Have you set the thermostat to its lowest setting?

2. Is the thermostat built-in to the unit, or is it wall mounted somewhere else? If it is wall mounted, try putting a temporary baffle of some sort to direct the cold air discharge away from the thermostat. If it is built in to the unit, it is not unusual to have too much cycling because the thermostat is too close to the discharge.
Converting to a remote thermostat often solves the problem.

Any resources on how to converter a remote system?

GalsofEscape · 08-21-2018, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikendan

Gals, you live in Maryland while the OP lives in the desert Southwest.
I'm sure they deal with much higher temperatures.

well, yep if the OP lives in the southwest it would be a bit more difficult for the a/c to keep up. we were just out there with our hybrid last summer and the a/c was tolerable, not as good as here in Maryland. we had to use gizmos and reflectix to help.

**bikendan** · 08-21-2018, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GalsofEscape

well, yep if the OP lives in the southwest it would be a bit more difficult for the a/c to keep up. we were just out there with our hybrid last summer and the a/c was tolerable, not as good as here in Maryland. we had to use gizmos and reflectix to help.

And without PUGs, that sun beating down on the tops of the tent ends, will make it hard to cool.
With a satisfaction rate of almost 100%, it's hard to understand why popup and hybrid owners don't make them their first purchase.

Bluepill · 08-21-2018, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Itwrx

Any resources on how to converter a remote system?

If you can post here what model and brand your A/C is, the Hive Mind on the forum should be able to make some good suggestions.

I am currently doing a remote conversion on my all-in-one Dometic A/C and should be posting the info within a few weeks.

Bluepill · 08-21-2018, 09:26 PM

BTW, specs here show a 13,500 BTUH A/C is standard.

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2015-...-hw296-tr22889

If so, changing to a 15K BTU unit would only be an 11% increase in cooling, assuming your unit is not defective.

ScooterDobs · 09-01-2018, 11:38 PM

Just went through something similar, although not as bad as yours. Brand new 1905 Mini Lite with a Coleman Mach 13,500 A/C. Would only cool trailer to about 68-70 degrees. Bottom line was that cold conditioned air was bypassing the trailer going direct back into the air inlet "fooling" the internal thermostat temperature sensor that the trailer was cold. After finding two areas where cold air was bypassing directly into the inlet, trailer will get down to 61 degrees or so.

Write-up on what I found is in http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...gh-168937.html

Hope this helps.

Mike91 · 09-02-2018, 06:25 PM

I'm not much a fan of Dometic AC as I have issues with them, I'm a Coleman AC guy. Love those ACs.

Anyhow, I had issues with a barrier piece between the intake and the output. The AC would never cool down because cool air out was always hitting the Thermocouple and shutting the compressor off. Thermocouple should had only been seeing the intake air temp. Got that fixed and it worked good from there on out.

That was on my 2007 Starcraft 2406 pop up.

Itwrx · 09-06-2018, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluepill

If you can post here what model and brand your A/C is, the Hive Mind on the forum should be able to make some good suggestions.

I am currently doing a remote conversion on my all-in-one Dometic A/C and should be posting the info within a few weeks.

Did you do the Remote thermostat model yet? Do you have any photos or write ups on it? Thanks

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