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Old 09-24-2014, 08:05 AM   #1
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HW296 Gooseneck faucet

Hello everyone,

Does anyone keep the goose-neck faucet installed even when the roof is down on this model popup? Not sure of the layout on the other Highwalls.

In looking inside at the closed unit it appears there is a whole lot of head space when the roof is down and closed up tight. I measured the counter (above the radio) to the roof and got a measurement of 12". Not sure how high the goose-neck is.

On my old HW256, I always took it down and the o-rings were beginning to get warn. It would save the faucet if I did not have to uninstall and install every time.

Curious what others do.

Vin.
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Old 09-24-2014, 02:19 PM   #2
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Hi, I was instructed to take it off, which I do. It might have enough clearance but I would be concerned about maybe the tenting catching on it when the roof is lowered or raised. I lubricate mine with a little olive oil occasionally, seems to help.
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Old 09-25-2014, 06:58 AM   #3
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Initially I took mine off my HW276 2015, but then a guy at my dealer said it wasn't necessary, and he was right, top closes no problem


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Old 09-25-2014, 07:28 AM   #4
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I also noticed that the countertop that the sink and the stove is in has been lowered by 2" for some reason. The normal height of the HW counters is 35" which is suppose to approximate normal residential height. The sink is lowered to 33" for some reason. I suspect it was possibly done to accomodate the gooseneck height and to allow the top to be lowered while the gooseneck is attached.

I am gonna give it a shot the next time I open it up in the driveway. I am curious as to how well and easy it will be to push in the canvas sides with the gooseneck still attached.

Vin.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:41 AM   #5
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I remove the gooseneck because I leave items in the pantry. Also concerned the canvas will break it.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papasmurff1 View Post
I remove the gooseneck because I leave items in the pantry. Also concerned the canvas will break it.
Right. That is my concern as well. I am gonna try it out and see how it goes. I will take my time and slowly lower it down and keep checking the inside clearance.

One concern is the plastic pipe used to weigh down the bottom of the new style curtain blinds. This is a stiff piece of PVC pipe that will not be able to be pushed out of the way of the gooseneck. With the regular curtains, you could slide these away from the sink area. Then you only had to contend with the canvas sides being pushed in. The new curtains are pulled up towards the ceiling and have that stiff pipe on the bottom. There is no way to move this material over and so it must be bunched up between the outside and gooseneck.

I'll report back with what I find out after I try.

Vin.
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:02 AM   #7
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I didn't get these new style curtains, also I take the pantry down


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Old 09-25-2014, 03:16 PM   #8
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I take down my pantry and the wardrobe as well. I guess it is true that they will accordion shut but I guess I want minimal things to get in the way when I tuck the canvas in.
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:32 AM   #9
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vin,

i leave my pantry and wardrobes up when i tuck tyhe sides in i try to tuck the canvas under the pantry, but i reach in and push the wardrobe into the center of the bed to help tuck the side in better. btw now you got me looking at the gooseneck to see if i can leave it but on my hw276 i think the rear bed slides over it.
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Old 09-26-2014, 03:33 PM   #10
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I was able to squeeze into the closed up HW296 and made my way over to the sink. I put the gooseneck over where it attaches and confirmed that I still have about 2" of clearance. The back bunk does not close in. There is also an incredible about of space above the dinette since the beds do not come in that far to fully cover it.

So the fact is that the gooseneck can remain up when the pop up is closed up.

Vin.
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