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Old 07-09-2014, 08:36 PM   #11
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A multimeter like this is worth maybe 20 $. clamp ampmeter will be 100$
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:38 PM   #12
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The clamp amp meter that the electrical supply had only went to 20 amp DC and was $150. Still, my little $20 tester and $5 of fuses verified that I have a more serious issue. Just can't believe its on such a new camper.


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Old 07-09-2014, 08:45 PM   #13
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Sounds to me like you do NOT have an appliance or device issue. If you turn everything off on that circuit then current draw should be zero amps.

Sounds like a wiring issue, like a fastener of some kind has skinned the insulation off the wire somewhere. Maybe a staple or a pinched point someplace.

Or perhaps a wiring error, there's devices/appliances on the circuit that should not, according to design, be there.
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:48 PM   #14
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So I should do as I mentioned and remove the wire right at the converter...then the draw should be zero of there is a compromised wire...

We did go over some very bumpy roads on I-70 on the way home, so I was wondering about this possibility. This will be the next thing I check, I'll just have to remove the converter or open it's box to do so. I don't have an issue with that though. It won't void my warranty will it?


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Old 07-09-2014, 08:56 PM   #15
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Don't know about warranty.

Disconnect the wire and measure current, should be zero and that proves the converter is OK. Then measure resistance to ground from the disconnected wire. If everything is off should be rather high. If only a few Ohms then you have a wiring issue someplace. You'll have to visually trace all (or most) of the wire to find it.

Ugg. Sorry about that. And if you understand AC house circuits this should be a snap for you.
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IonicBrick View Post
The clamp amp meter that the electrical supply had only went to 20 amp DC and was $150. Still, my little $20 tester and $5 of fuses verified that I have a more serious issue. Just can't believe its on such a new camper.


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The tester is showing leaking currents only on that fuse circuit. The converter is not involved except as a 2nd power supply. You need to disconnect each device one at a time and see which one blows the circuit. Make sure if the loads are daisy chained, reconnect the lead to the next circuit so it stays in the line during testing, ie: if furnace receives the red wires and is parallel to CO detector, remove from furnace lug but be sure the supply continues down stream.
Easier way, take back to dealer and explain whats happening.
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:44 PM   #17
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That's kind of what I'm thinking at this point. I'll take everything apart and hope that's the case. Luckily I can see most of the wiring in my camper. I was curious since when I first tested it it would run for a while before blowing the fuse, but things must have gotten worse from me putting the trailer on the side of the house, as it blows instantly now.

I'll remove everything including the wire on the circuit and check that it functions properly, and then find the culprit...unless of course I can see it right off when I remove the converter...



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Old 07-27-2014, 04:28 PM   #18
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So I took the back cover off of the power center...I looked at all the connections, and traced as many wires as I could all around the trailer. I didn't see anything, so I decided to put a meter on it and check. This time zero amp draw. I swamped the meter for a 15 amp fuse and left it be. We'll see if it lasts a few days before I hook up the CO detector and radio again.

When I first brought it home I got the circuit to work for a few hours before blowing, so I'm going to make sure things are good with everything disconnected.


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Old 07-27-2014, 04:34 PM   #19
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Sounds like good plan.


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