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Old 07-24-2014, 11:39 AM   #11
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I'm sure your aware that the hot water heater is fed by your fresh water tank. As you use hot water, the fresh water refills the hot water tank so in essence, the hot water tank is always full of 6 gal of water and your fresh water tank is being drained as you use either hot or cold water. Also BE SURE YOUR HOT WATER TANK IS FULL before you turn on the heating element. If it's not full, you will burn out the heating element. The only way to fill the hot water tank is by connecting to city water or filling your fresh water tank and letting the pump fill the hot water tank. Also, you can slightly open the hot water facet to let the air escape and ensure the water heater is full. Another way to check is quickly open/close the high pressure valve on the water heater, if water squirts out when open, the heater is full and safe to have the heating element turned on. Good luck!
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:46 PM   #12
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Critical - you must find the three bypass valves for the hot water tank and make sure they are set to allow water into the heater's tank before you try it. Mine was set by the factory in bypass mode, and the water system had non toxic antifreeze in it when I took it home. I made the mistake of overheating an empty hot water tank and causing thermal shutdown to kick in before I learned about those valves. It's hard to know what your camper has, since the directions are just a pile of random instructions for all the of the shelf components and the manual is a generic one for all models.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:47 PM   #13
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I've got a 2015 hw276, so I suspect we are going to be learning the same lessons and tricks.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:49 PM   #14
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Under the couch, behind the pump switch and converter was a storage area that was screwed closed by the factory. Throw away that screw. The valves are in there. Also, push on the front of the converter (the black panel with the fan going) and the cover will pop off to expose the breakers and fuses.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:53 PM   #15
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I will definitely check that out! I had no idea it would come factory that way.
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:42 PM   #16
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It makes sense to winterize it before you ship it, since they have no idea what dealer parking lot it will wind up on. When you put in the antifreeze you have to bypass the hot water tank to keep the antifreeze out of the tank.

When I flushed my tanks the first time, I did not know about the bypass valves of course... but the following sequence makes sense to me as my checklist... it may need tweaking, so tell me if I've made any mistakes.

0. Open the grey water valve (connect a hose for drainage if you like)
1. Drain the cold water tank with whatever is in it.
2. Fill the cold water tank from the hose
3. Turn on the pump.
4. Run water through all the fixtures just to clear as much antifreeze as possible
5. Turn off the pump
6. Drain the cold water tank, leaving the sink valves open
7. Fill the cold water tank 2/3 full from the hose and add the chemicals to sanitize it.
8. Turn on the pump
9. Run the fixtures to sanitize the lines.
10. Shake the tent a bit.
11. Take hot water tank off bypass, let it fill up
12. Run hot water until all the air is out and cold water flows.
13. Turn off pump
14. Drain tank
15. Drain hot water tank (remove anode, requires 1 1/16" socket)
16. Fill the cold water tank
17. Turn on the pump and faucets until cold and hot are running.
18. Run all the fixtures a bit to clear the sanitizer chemicals
19. Close the sink faucets
20. Open propane tank valve(s)
21. Turn on furnace
22. Wait until it turns off again
23. Run the hot water for a bit until it's nice and hot.
24. Everything is proven clean and ready to go.

I ran through all that more or less as a pre-test. Then I drained everything off until I'm ready to set out. One thing I have to remember is to run the pumps to fill the lines and hot water tank, and then top off the cold water tank after that, before leaving.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:01 AM   #17
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Congrats on your new HW296. I too may be receiving one soon. I need to upgrade my old pup. ( Just not sure I like the black tank. Unfortunately, it looks like I have no choice. My dealer said the factory refused to substitute the current hard wall unit for a simple cassette toilet like they put into their low wall pups. ).

You will find the water systems they have devised now for pup's is thought out well. It really is pretty simple. You will do great.
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:03 AM   #18
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Vinmaker. See if ur dealer can ask them to install a blk tank rise (tornado) hile building! Its a cheap tool that would help a great deal on cleaning the tank. You can install once they seal everything up.
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:20 PM   #19
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Hello again everyone. I finally got to tinker with my new HW296 and I really appreciate all of your tips! I do have a few more questions.

First, in the fresh water gravity fill, the hook up is not the typical hose hook up. I did buy the 25' white hose, but the fresh water fill valve on the camper doesn't match the hose. Is there an adapter I need?

Secondly, on the grey water drain pipe, my camper came with a small adapter where you'd just push a hose onto to let drain? Is there an adapter that would allow me to hook up the three inch black water pipe?

Lastly, I found the three valves for the water heater. There are two red valves and one blue. I'm assuming red for hot and blue for cold. Any certain way those all need to be for which combination?
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:13 PM   #20
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My valves are all black but, you want the one to hot and cold open (valves are oval. Open is where the oval is lined up lengthwise with the hose) . The one that cross connects hot and cold...the oval should be perpendicular to the hose (closed).
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