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08-09-2014, 06:47 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 1,830
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Ah. Good point Bob. That is so true about the only think mattering is the fridge. lol.
Can't believe I missed that point. Thanks for pointing that out.
Vin.
__________________
2015 HW296
2006 HW256 (previous pup)
2013 Chevy Tahoe
Equalizer WDH 10000#
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08-09-2014, 06:48 AM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 1,830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gforce24
Thanks guys. Hopefully there isn't anything wrong...it's brand new.
Also, I shouldn't try to level with the stabilizers correct? I heard that is a bad idea.
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Right. They just stabilize a bit. Always level with wood/blocks/etc for side to side and the front jack for front to back.
Vin.
__________________
2015 HW296
2006 HW256 (previous pup)
2013 Chevy Tahoe
Equalizer WDH 10000#
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08-09-2014, 08:40 AM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gforce24
Thanks guys. Hopefully there isn't anything wrong...it's brand new.
Also, I shouldn't try to level with the stabilizers correct? I heard that is a bad idea.
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Stabilizers are just for stabilizing. If you force them to level you will end up warping the frame which can then cause misalignment issues with your front door.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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08-09-2014, 09:32 AM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 233
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I guess I should have emphasised that point when mentioning over-tightened stabilizer jacks. As has been already pointed out, DO NOT level with stabilizer jacks. I just tighten mine until I see just a slight lift of the frame (maybe a 1/4", or so) and stop. I use my cordless drill with a speed socket until they just contact the ground, then finish the job with the supplied hand crank so as to not over-tighten. A speed socket is the best $8 investment a lazy man can make.
__________________
Bob & Doris
Roanoke, VA
2009 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 4x4 - 5.7L - 6 Speed Auto - 4.30:1
2013 Rockwood HW296
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08-09-2014, 10:47 AM
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#45
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dundalk MD
Posts: 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gforce24
Thanks guys. Hopefully there isn't anything wrong...it's brand new.
Also, I shouldn't try to level with the stabilizers correct? I heard that is a bad idea.
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Correct. Level with the tongue jack (leveling legs on the front of a 5er), then just snug up (stabilize) with the rear stabilizers.
A couple more comments:
Not sure about Androids, bit iPhone users have a level built into the phone. Open the compass and swipe across it. Voila!
I like to level at the range cooktop. That way the cooking oil doesn't run to one corner of the pan. 8-)
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
Lou and Paula
2014 Rockwood 8289WS UltraLite w/Revolution Pinbox Engaged.
2011 F250 Power Stroke Super Duty King Ranch Super Crew Cab w/Reese 16K Hitch
__________________
Lou & Paula
2014 Rockwood 8289WS Ultra Lite w/Reese Revloution Pinbox.
2011 F250 Power Stroke Super Duty King Ranch Super Crew w/Reese 16k Fixed Hitch
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08-09-2014, 11:20 AM
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#46
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 10,446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Idaho
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I also use a Bulls-Eye bubble level in a few spots along with checking how the bathroom door opens & closes. I often camp on pavement which isn't too unleveled to start with.
__________________
Great choice for "Living within my means" and camping for one...
Formerly owned 2011 Salem Cruise Lite 20RBXL & 2011 Toyota Tundra Dbl Cab
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08-09-2014, 05:18 PM
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#47
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Earth
Posts: 89
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A BAL leveler is a great thing to have. It not only helps you level side to side but also acts as a wheel chock. Check amazon, about $90 or so.
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08-09-2014, 05:30 PM
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#48
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Thanks!
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08-10-2014, 10:52 AM
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#49
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Ok guys, another question about the levels...I have the stick on kind, but I can attach them permanently with screws. Where would be best to mount these? Is it safe to drill a couple of holes in the body of the box to mount these?
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08-10-2014, 05:15 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 830
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Not sure where to mount them but if you drill holes MAKE SURE YOU CAULK THEM so they dont leak
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08-10-2014, 08:04 PM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 1,830
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I would not suggest drilling any holes in the exterior. You are just asking for trouble.
I think placing them on the back bumper and side frame would be sufficient. Will not mar the finish either.
__________________
2015 HW296
2006 HW256 (previous pup)
2013 Chevy Tahoe
Equalizer WDH 10000#
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08-11-2014, 08:48 AM
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#52
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 233
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On previous campers, I have used the stick-on levels, and they seem to do fine for a couple of years before the sticky starts to weather and lose it's grip. No problem...I just bought new ones and replaced them.
__________________
Bob & Doris
Roanoke, VA
2009 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 4x4 - 5.7L - 6 Speed Auto - 4.30:1
2013 Rockwood HW296
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08-11-2014, 08:57 AM
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#53
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 1,830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w4drr
On previous campers, I have used the stick-on levels, and they seem to do fine for a couple of years before the sticky starts to weather and lose it's grip. No problem...I just bought new ones and replaced them.
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Exactly. That is what I was thinking. Just buy some new ones if need be. Much better than drilling IMO.
__________________
2015 HW296
2006 HW256 (previous pup)
2013 Chevy Tahoe
Equalizer WDH 10000#
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08-11-2014, 09:00 AM
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#54
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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I bought the sticky ones and they had the instruction for "permanently" attaching them with screw. I thought about it because the sticky ones seemed to be cheap and very easily moved if bumped. I went yesterday and bout some a little more expensive and stuck those on and they are great. So I went with the sticky ones. Thanks again guys!
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10-08-2014, 03:28 AM
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#55
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Hello all! Just an update, things are going well with my new camper! I do have a quick question. As you know I have the 2015 HW 296. I've been dry camping and everything's been great. Next weekend will be my first time with full hookups. My question is on this model, the grey and black water tanks have separate drains. They are totally different sizes. With full hookup, how would I set them both up to drain simultaneously?
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10-08-2014, 05:13 AM
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#56
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Catonsville Maryland
Posts: 1,965
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You dont . Hook up the gray to the sewer while you are camping. Then once the black tank is full then hook that one up and dump it. You do not want to have the black tank draining to sewer as you camp as solids will build up in the tank, so you only want to dump the black when it is at least a three quarters full. If it is not at least that full, add water to get there. If you are interested, some people have done a mod to connect the two outlets into a single, that way they use stored gray to rinse the hose after a black dump. Search for that here on the forum. Have a great time camping....
__________________
HTT: "EscapeII" 2016 Shamrock 23WS (current)
PUP: "Escape" 2010 Rockwood HW 277 (gone)
TV: "Gill" 2022 RAM 2500
Just us gals (me, Sis and our daughters)
We spend alot of money to go sit in the woods
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10-08-2014, 08:34 AM
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#57
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 830
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Gforce24 most of us dont connect them together like GalsofEscape said you dont want to so you can flush the hose after draining the black. A couple of us went to the hardware store
( lowes) and got plumbing fitting so we can connect a stinky slinky to the gray outlet. You need
1 1/2 cleaning out
A 1 1/2 to 3" reducer and then a valterra bayonet from amazon the glue it all together. Ill post pics and part numbers when I find them. Vinmaker also might have them still
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10-08-2014, 08:58 AM
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#58
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: von ormy tx
Posts: 53
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Welcome from Texas congrats on new popup
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10-08-2014, 09:06 AM
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#59
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 830
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valterra T1029-1 termination adpator from amazon
charlotte pipe 1 1/2 clean out 23301 from lowes
charlotte pipe 1 1/2 x 3" adpator coupling fitting 23319 from lowes.
vinmaker from them in black but lowqes in michigan only have white.
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10-17-2014, 02:31 PM
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#60
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Another quick question...when hooked up to full hookup, or city water, do I need to use the water pump?
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