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07-27-2014, 09:08 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Catonsville Maryland
Posts: 1,969
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To fill the fresh water tank, I do not use any connector. I just set the hose in the opening and turn on the water.
To drain the black waste, you use a standard sewer hose (nicknamed stinky slinky).
__________________
HTT: "EscapeII" 2016 Shamrock 23WS (current)
PUP: "Escape" 2010 Rockwood HW 277 (gone)
TV: "Gill" 2022 RAM 2500
Just us gals (me, Sis and our daughters)
We spend alot of money to go sit in the woods
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07-27-2014, 10:12 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Thank you. How do I know when the fresh water is full? As far as I know, there no gauges to indicate water levels.
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07-27-2014, 10:38 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 45
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You can hear a change in the sound when it's getting full. Then the water spills out when it's full.
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07-28-2014, 07:41 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Catonsville Maryland
Posts: 1,969
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Yep, fill til it overflows. Are you mostly dry camping (no water hookups)? FWIW, if you have water hookup at your camp site you do not need to use the fresh water storage tank. The white hose you bought also hooks up at the city water inlet and provides the water directly to the sinks, toilet, shower, and water heater.
__________________
HTT: "EscapeII" 2016 Shamrock 23WS (current)
PUP: "Escape" 2010 Rockwood HW 277 (gone)
TV: "Gill" 2022 RAM 2500
Just us gals (me, Sis and our daughters)
We spend alot of money to go sit in the woods
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07-28-2014, 08:29 AM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Correct, the majority of the time I will be dry camping. I go to a lot of races and there are rarely if ever any hookups.
Thanks all!
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07-28-2014, 08:41 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Catonsville Maryland
Posts: 1,969
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Sounds like a lot of fun :-)
__________________
HTT: "EscapeII" 2016 Shamrock 23WS (current)
PUP: "Escape" 2010 Rockwood HW 277 (gone)
TV: "Gill" 2022 RAM 2500
Just us gals (me, Sis and our daughters)
We spend alot of money to go sit in the woods
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08-07-2014, 05:05 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Hey everyone! I'm wanting to add some levelers (the little level bubbles) to my new HW296. I'm having a hard time finding a good spot to put my big level to make sure it is level before I add them. Any tricks?
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08-07-2014, 05:56 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 1,830
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Hey Gforce,
All you need to do is spend one time leveling the trailer close to perfect and then place those sticky levelers to it and you will be all set. You can do it anywhere you have a bit of time to work on leveling the pup. Your hardest time will be getting the side to side perfect. Front to back is easy.
Just use a normal 24" carpenter level to check it while you level the pup.
Vin.
__________________
2015 HW296
2006 HW256 (previous pup)
2013 Chevy Tahoe
Equalizer WDH 10000#
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08-07-2014, 11:12 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Thanks vin. Yeah, I added the front to back level, that was easy. The trouble I'm having is finding a good place to put the carpenter level. I have a 24" level but it seems no matter where I put it on the pup, I get a different trading. It's like no two places are the same. I'll keep plugging away at it.
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08-08-2014, 09:31 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 1,830
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I like to take four readings with the 24" level.
1) back bumper
2) hold under back of frame (in case bumper is not welded square to frame)
3) inside door on the camper floor
4) hold under front of frame ( more tricky as you need to crawl under a bit).
You will most likely get four different readings. I say get it as close as you can and call it a day. You can drive yourself nuts trying to get it perfect. There is a point of diminishing returns.
Vin.
__________________
2015 HW296
2006 HW256 (previous pup)
2013 Chevy Tahoe
Equalizer WDH 10000#
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08-08-2014, 11:15 AM
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#31
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Haha! Yeah, that'd me me, trying to be perfect! Thanks Vin! I will definitely follow your suggestions! Getting her ready for the maiden voyage in just under two weeks...I think I'm about there.
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08-08-2014, 12:08 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 233
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The most correct place to check is the refrigerator. It doesn't work well if it is very far out of level. If it is run out-of-level for an extended time, it could damage it.
__________________
Bob & Doris
Roanoke, VA
2009 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 4x4 - 5.7L - 6 Speed Auto - 4.30:1
2013 Rockwood HW296
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08-08-2014, 12:24 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 830
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W4drr where on the fridge do you check? To get to my fridge I have to almost open everything the beds n the slide. Doing that I would have to unhook the tv
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08-08-2014, 12:25 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 830
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Now im curious. I just lay my 24" level on the floor just the door.
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08-08-2014, 12:35 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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I use one like this.
His Glassworks - Bulls-Eye Bubble Level
Just put it on the bottom of the fridge.
__________________
2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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08-08-2014, 12:37 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 133
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The fridge needs to be level from side to side so the ammonia will condense and recycle correctly.
If your fridge is on the side of your trailer, leveling the trailer from front to back is critical for the fridge.
If your fridge is on the front/back of your trailer, leveling the trailer from side to side is critical for the fridge.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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08-08-2014, 02:50 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinma13
W4drr where on the fridge do you check? To get to my fridge I have to almost open everything the beds n the slide. Doing that I would have to unhook the tv
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I checked it on the floor in front of the fridge, and verified it agreed with the bubble level on the hitch jack. Once I had done that, then I was able to trust the level at the jack, and just use it when setting up.
__________________
Bob & Doris
Roanoke, VA
2009 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 4x4 - 5.7L - 6 Speed Auto - 4.30:1
2013 Rockwood HW296
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08-08-2014, 08:26 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 1,830
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You guys are right on about the fridge.
I think the OP wanted to level the trailer. I agree that one would hope the fridge would be level if the trailer is level. However, I am not sure if the logic is correct when one says if the fridge is level then the trailer is level.
These things are just not made with the type of precision that one could expect. That is why one needs to take a few level readings to check everything.
Vin.
__________________
2015 HW296
2006 HW256 (previous pup)
2013 Chevy Tahoe
Equalizer WDH 10000#
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08-09-2014, 06:31 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 233
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The idea is, if you are going to pick a spot in the camper that is going to be perfectly level, the fridge should be it since it is the only thing that is sensitive to leveling. Unless something is terribly wrong with the camper frame or the stabilizer jacks have been over-tightened; if the fridge is level the rest of the camper should be reasonably close.
__________________
Bob & Doris
Roanoke, VA
2009 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 4x4 - 5.7L - 6 Speed Auto - 4.30:1
2013 Rockwood HW296
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08-09-2014, 06:46 AM
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#40
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 24
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Thanks guys. Hopefully there isn't anything wrong...it's brand new.
Also, I shouldn't try to level with the stabilizers correct? I heard that is a bad idea.
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