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Old 08-21-2016, 08:57 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by kennyh View Post
That is what i was hoping for, but when I hooked the two lonely wires back up to the battery I tried the fantastic fan and ceiling lights and they didn't work. I figured there must be more to it. Maybe the new battery is dead already. I did raise and lower the roof a few times. Does the battery re-charge when 110 power is hooked up? You had mentioned before that the battery controls the heater fan, I am thinking it would control the roof lights and fantastic fan too. Guessing the outlets and water pump would be 110 only?
Could be the reverse polarity fuse as noted in previous message.

Could also be a switch.

If yours is like mine, and they are similar, when you raise the sink/stove up into place, you close one or two switches. On mine, one switch closes a circuit to allow overhead lights to work, one closes a circuit to allow the water pump to run. So to get the overhead lights to work (and the water pump), the switch must be closed.

Mine are silver switches just below where the sink sits. You can manually push it (them) in.

These switches prevent the light from being left on when the top is lowered for two reasons. One, the incandescent bulbs used in the overhead lights can burn the side panels since they might be resting on them when the top is down. At a minimum this will burn a big hole in something, I guess worse case scenario is it will set the trailer on fire.
And if you forget to turn off the water pump switch, this prevents the pump from running while the top is down, to prevent damage to the pump and trailer if faucet was left open, you had water in the tank and the pump is pumping water into the trailer sink and to the floor.
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Trailer: Lifted 228BH, heavy duty springs and Yokohama tires DELAMINATED ROOF
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Spare TV: Two Alaskan Malamutes

Living somewhere in ID; previously lived in Moab UT; previous to that, don't ask!
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:29 PM   #22
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Great info on the sink buttons Moab. Learning so much here!

There is a 25 amp fuse on mine just after the battery, off of the plus terminal. it was blown and that seems to have solved the power outage. The heater works and the fan was blowing, lights working. I don't know how to be sure the battery is actually being charged via shore power. I guess I may have to grow up and learn to use a voltmeter!

My Goshen winch is working well and I am very happy with it. It felt freeing to leave behind the power winch and it's mess of wiring. Also easier to make small height adjustments. I had to drill a new hole in the winch cover to accommodate crank access. I don't know if I should be seeking a plug for that hole? I will have to go back and check what Moab did as far as greasing. I think it is up there in an earlier post. I still get a little freaked out when stuffing the last of the tent bits in at the end, feeling like the roof will come down on my fingers (not due to this winch, but with the old one as well).

I fixed the upper door today which had stretched out screw slots in the roof hinge, was missing screws and had been traveling un-attached on the floor. Made shutting the top difficult as the ceiling hinge would flop down in the way at the last minute. I used some small washers with new screws to hopefully keep the door attached. I had some trouble getting the plastic nuts that hold the door to the ceiling to line up right. It seemed a more difficult job than it should be. It was hard to get the nut nearest the clasp cut-out to not line up un-helpfully directly in the cut-out, holding nothing. Also seemed kind of scary leaving it hooked up even when I got lined up for a good grab, like the weight of the door/ bounce of the ride would over power those nuts or it would swing down and clobber me as I stood there looking at it.

I fixed the Velcro under the big bed also. It had ripped away from the staples. I thought it would be the least of the jobs but when I got into it I realized that I really had to remove the bed entirely to do it right. The Velcro needs to be tucked under the gasket under the bed (trailer end) or it will probably just rip off again from exposure during push ins. I couldn't see accomplishing that without removing the bed. With it removed and flipped upside down on some sawhorses it was easy. I used some construction caulk/glue stuff to beef up adhesion on the Velcro and stapled the edges instead of down the middle where mine had ripped. I would have done the little bed too but that was all the long Velcro I had around.

I got us registered, inspected and insured as well. Got Wyn's balance level in the mail (thx Wyn!) and I was actually bummed to find on set up, post-inspection trip, that I was level already upon parking! I put the BL under the wheel and snugged it up as a chock anyway.

I still need to test the propane grill and water set up and learn to operate the cassette potty that should be here tomorrow. Getting closer!

Sorry for the book. Thanks all, especially Moab, for the huge help in beginning to learn what it takes to pop up!
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:42 PM   #23
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What I did with mine when I converted to a manual was to glue the round plug, for the power bypass, with glue and cut an opening in the side for access to the winch.
I did not seal it; not needed. If you look at ones on dealers lots, they are open. I do spray the winch, from underneath on occasion with a dry lube. So far, after a year, no problem.
Hint on the winch when winding down. Even though it is not likely it will slip when your hands are pushing in the side curtains, turn the handle one click in the raise direction and let go, you will hear a noticeable click that is a type of lock. Just added security.

Good luck and glad to be of help.
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Trailer: Lifted 228BH, heavy duty springs and Yokohama tires DELAMINATED ROOF
TV: 2016 GMC Sierra Z71 4x4 CC, SLT
Spare TV: Two Alaskan Malamutes

Living somewhere in ID; previously lived in Moab UT; previous to that, don't ask!
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