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Old 04-08-2014, 07:20 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by tswiii View Post
Really? The Green toggle switch in the outside panel has to be set to ON for the battery to charge? I thought this panel was just to designate which source ran the refrigerator - 12V, 110, or propane.
that's how i remember our two popups.
there's no such switch to charge the battery that i remember.
you just plug the trailer into shore power and the converter automatically starts charging the battery, along with providing power to the outlets and running the fridge on electric.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:05 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by tswiii View Post
Thanks GalsofEscape, thank you for the welcome. As far as your comments, that's exactly what I thought I understood. Perhaps that dealer or the PO pulled the battery fuse to disconnect the battery so the carbon monoxide detector wouldn't drain the battery. Is that a fuse in the converter or is that fuse located elsewhere? Also, I should expect that the battery charges through my "light" cable from my tow vehicle, correct?
And Brother Les, I wondered the same thing so I checked the breakers in the power box and they were turned on. I plugged something into the 110 to see if the outlets were working and they were.
Oh, and I just had a thought. It seems like when we were working with the breakers on the converter last night... I turned it off and then I turned it on and then there was humming and then it faded out. I would turn it off again and then back on and I would hear humming and then it would fade out again (after about 5 seconds).
Those symptoms would normally mean

1. You have power to the converter.
2. Sumpting is wrong with it.

A 12volt digital multimeter would tell you if any charge is getting to the battery, but from what you are indicating, I don't think so.

It is not uncommon for the converters to go out and need replacing, they are frequently a weak link in the system. the temp fix is to charge the battery with a decent charger as it will perform the same function as the converter. Then look into replacing the converter with a similar size (amperage ) one that will fit in the space you have.

Good luck
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Old 06-06-2014, 03:50 PM   #23
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We are newbies and as soon as we got our camper home the next day our battery was dead. I could not figure out why but after reading these post my guess is that the carbon monoxide detectors were the cause.So I am going to look at removing the battery fuse. Thanks!

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Old 06-06-2014, 04:12 PM   #24
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We are newbies and as soon as we got our camper home the next day our battery was dead. I could not figure out why but after reading these post my guess is that the carbon monoxide detectors were the cause.So I am going to look at removing the battery fuse. Thanks!

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the easiest thing to do, is install a battery disconnect switch.
and there are other parasitic power drains other than the CO detector.
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and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:39 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by bakermaker04 View Post
We are newbies and as soon as we got our camper home the next day our battery was dead. I could not figure out why but after reading these post my guess is that the carbon monoxide detectors were the cause.So I am going to look at removing the battery fuse. Thanks!

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Baker maker,

Is your camper new? I agree that installing a disconnect is a good idea, but your battery should not be drained overnight just from the CO detector. There is something wrong, something else on, or a combination of both.
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