Newbie with a 2006 XR 191 4X4 in Houston area

TexasNightSky · 02-01-2016, 12:30 AM

The XR 191 seems to be very similar to the 1910, but on steroids for offroad use. I've already had an issue or two and can't figure a few things out...

1) I heard the 12v interior lights should not have power when the sink is turned over and popup is down. I read other pups have a toggle switch but I can not find any in mine. I thought I'd charge the battery by plugging in, but nearly burned a hole in the vinyl due to a light switch getting turned on due to contact during closing of the pup.

2) My sink won't seem to drain unless I use a plunger to start it draining. Seems clear and drains fine after plunged until the next use.

3) I can't get the vent fan or interior lights to work unless I'm plugged in. Can't I use the battery to power them? I'm guessing there is a 120/12 v switch some where, but my manual does not say where.

4) My entry step sags when I step on it. It seems it is not supported well enough and I've rigged up a few 2x4's to support the frame, but I'd like to hear from others with the XR 191.

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Mike

Trevor43 · 02-01-2016, 04:04 AM

1. There is a switch under the swing down stove/sink.......when in the up position, the sink/stove sits on top of the switch. The switch may be stuck closed or someone rewired it closed. This safety feature was to prevent just what you have experienced.

2. When your sink is in the up position....open the drawers and look in to see if the hose has kinked.

3. Is the battery good?......Have you checked the fuses in the power panel? Is there a battery on/off switch somewhere?

JPBar · 02-01-2016, 08:05 AM

Google (vent drains for popup up campers) lots of good ideals pick one that works best for your camper. My 228BH same problem until I made vent for it now no problems.

Sounds like your switch is wired closed or stuck.

Good luck and have fun with camper.

f5moab · 02-01-2016, 10:23 AM

"Can't get the interior light to work except when plugged into AC with camper open but the lights came one when the battery was charging and almost burned a hole in the vinyl with the camper closed??

" I can't get the vent fan or interior lights to work unless I'm plugged in."

The safety switch under the sink cuts power to the roof circuit, regardless if connected to just battery or AC power. At least on my 228 it does.

So, have you raised the camper and then connected the battery to a charger to see if the lights come on? If yes, that would solve the power problem. The battery is shot!

As for turning on the lights when the roof is down, that sure sounds like that switch is broken, or maybe missing?

Might also want to look at replacing the incandescent bulbs in the trailer with some LEDs. The LEDs get warm to the touch but NOT HOT, and they also draw such minimal current, they help the battery(ies) to last when camping on battery only.

pgandw · 02-01-2016, 05:13 PM

You may also be running down your battery while the PUP is stored between trips. There is a parasitic load on almost all campers - includes the CO/propane leak alarm, perhaps the stereo, and a couple of other things. These will run the battery down in a few weeks, if not days (depends on the battery and load).

You can do one of 2 things to prevent this. Disconnect all the wires to either terminal of the battery. Or install a battery disconnect - usually installed on the battery box on PUPs and A-frames. When I get home from a trip, I plug in for about 24 hours to fully recharge the batteries, and then turn the disconnect. Opposite when we get ready for a trip. You do want the battery on when towing, as it provides power to the brakes in the case of a break-away.

Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame (with added disconnect switch on the battery box)
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

TexasNightSky · 03-04-2016, 11:33 AM

Thanks for all the responses, sorry for the delay, I thought I'd get emails on replies but did not see any, I'll deal with that later.

1) I called Rockwood and have had terrible help... They don't have wiring diagrams of the trailer I have. After sending them pictures of my sink setup, they stated that I don't have a switch. They say I have a master disconnect/kill switch, but can't tell me where it might be so far.

2) Thanks for the vent insight, one of the PO's did have a vent kit in storage, I'll give that a try.

3) Turns out one of my fuses is blown and if the 120v is used I guess it does not run through that fuse. The fuse seems to deal with many of the 12v systems including the battery charging system as my voltage at the battery increased when I changed the fuse also. The power converter in my system is totally different than what my user manual describes, but seems like it was the stock unit...

4) Still working on finding any other XR 191 owners out there...

Thanks,
Mike

pgandw · 03-04-2016, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasNightSky

1) I called Rockwood and have had terrible help... They don't have wiring diagrams of the trailer I have. After sending them pictures of my sink setup, they stated that I don't have a switch. They say I have a master disconnect/kill switch, but can't tell me where it might be so far.

I am positive after looking at my A-frame (and my previous PUP) that PUPs and A-frames do not have factory wiring diagrams or factory wiring harnesses. The man/woman assembling the unit wires it up with some crimp-on wire nuts and a spool or two of wire at hand. I can safely say that after seeing the total lack of color coding or wire sizing behind the converter/distribution panel. After viewing how it was done, I am amazed that everything electrical actually works on my unit!

I have yet to see or hear of a PUP or A-frame that has a master disconnect switch as it comes from the factory. Owners sometimes install a battery disconnect after purchase as a convenience (I have on the present unit). And PUPs/A-frames all have a switch to disconnect electrical stuff in the roof when the roof is lowered - although it's possible it could have been omitted or mis-wired during construction. So I think you were given a line by the person at Rockwood you talked to - or that person didn't know any better.

Quote:

3) Turns out one of my fuses is blown and if the 120v is used I guess it does not run through that fuse. The fuse seems to deal with many of the 12v systems including the battery charging system as my voltage at the battery increased when I changed the fuse also. The power converter in my system is totally different than what my user manual describes, but seems like it was the stock unit...

PUPs and A-frames generally use a combination converter/distribution panel, made by WFCO. If you pop the front cover off, you will see 1-4 AC circuit breakers (like your home electrical panel) on one side, and a stack of fuses for 12V DC circuits on the other side (smaller version of the fuse panel in your car). In RVs, 120V AC uses circuit breakers, 12V DC uses fuses at the panel.

It is worth the time to figure out which breaker and which fuse controls what and LABEL the panel (again, just like your house). There are additional fuses that are not in the panel, such as in-line fuses at individual pieces of gear (like the stereo), and an in-line 12V circuit breaker on the chassis near the battery.

Hope this helps
Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
Previously 2000 Coleman Westlake PUP

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