Placing PUP into storage

[CampinDad]

So, during our shopping/buying phase I continually reassured my DW that our PUP would easily fit into our garage, thus not having to pay to store it at another location (HOA... ) Well, turns out that would have been true except I never took the AC unit into account for the height . Now I'm looking at a total height of 83.5" and a garage opening of 82". I'm considering doing everything possible to get the PUP into the garage, but will likely wait until my dad is in town in a few weeks to help out - I would need to pull the manual release on the garage door and push it back an extra 8" or so and then chain it in place somehow, likely remove the bottom support bracket running the length of the garage door, and then lower the tire pressure to see if I can get clearance...

In the meantime though, I'll be putting the PUP into storage and have a few questions that I know have probably been answered on here repeatedly, but my forum search returned 477 results

1. I'll be on gravel, should I place boards under the tires?
2. Do you remove your LP tanks or battery - are these prone to "walk" away?
3. What's better for the tongue jack - leave the caster wheel on or take it off?
4. Should stabilizers go down? Should I put boards under them as well?
5. What is the preferred hitch lock?
6. Anything else I may be forgetting?

As always, thanks for any help - my DW keeps telling me how amazed she is at how quick and helpful everyone on these forums is!

[clancythecamper]

I'm sure someone will be along soon to offer advice on the above. I am wondering if it will be under cover of any sort? In Florida, the sun and rain are an RV's worst enemies. I good cover might help to protect your investment.

I was surprised at how tall your pop up is not popped up. Most of the ones I've seen fit easily with room on top for storage. Must be a really nice pup Hopefully, you and your pa can figure something out.

Good luck!

[CampinDad]

No cover at the location. I'm considering purchasing one though. That leads to another question - we are in Myrtle Beach, so it will spend most of its time just a few miles inland. Should any extra precautions be taken for the salt in the air?

The size of it definitely caught us off guard as well. We knew it was big since its a high wall, but never actually saw it closed before picking it up.

[Gizmo0706]

With only needing 1 1/2 inches clearance could you possibly air down the tires nearly flat and get it in there? Just wondering if that would save you some grief of storage away from home.

[CampinDad]

Originally Posted by Gizmo0706

With only needing 1 1/2 inches clearance could you possibly air down the tires nearly flat and get it in there? Just wondering if that would save you some grief of storage away from home.

That's certainly the plan to try in a few weeks - just need some extra assistance on the garage door. Last night I played with it for a few minutes before dark and lowered on tire from 50psi to 20psi. Only gained about a 1/2" on that side. How low do you think I could take the tires and not damage them or the wheels? The other factor is that there is a 1.5-2" "step" up from my driveway to the garage.

[Goomph]

If the garage door has an 8" more to go upward , why don't you adjust your garage door opener to increase the travel up length ? or did I misread your post ? Is it the garage door opening which is a problem or the garage door itself ?

[CampinDad]

Originally Posted by Goomph

If the garage door has an 8" more to go upward , why don't you adjust your garage door opener to increase the travel up length ? or did I misread your post ? Is it the garage door opening which is a problem or the garage door itself ?

I should have clarified - I can pull the garage door back (into the garage) another ~8". Doing so raises the end of the door up further on the elbow of the tracks, so it only gains me a little bit of room.

[EastlakeRoo]

Lots of good suggestions so far. I guess you'll have to consider each and choose the one that allows you access to the trailer whenever you want.

You can either increase the height of the opening by modifying the door/header or taking gravel out so there is a slight dip to get the trailer in/out. If you don't want to do either then you have to consider what you can do to the trailer to get it to fit. (tire deflation/inflation).

1) Modify the door so you get just enough room to put in storage

2) Letting air out of the tires just enough to pull the trailer in and out

3) Since your on gravel anyway, Is it possible to remove just enough
gravel around the door to give you enough clearance to get the trailer in?

[viperjpm2]

have you tried removing just the the A/C shroud? that might buy you and inch or two... you could even the entire A/C unit, its actually very simple... 4 bolts and a few electrical connections

[CampinDad]

Originally Posted by viperjpm2

have you tried removing just the the A/C shroud? that might buy you and inch or two... you could even the entire A/C unit, its actually very simple... 4 bolts and a few electrical connections

I checked and the shroud only has ~1/8" of space over top of the highest component. Removing the A/C crossed my mind, but I immediately ruled it out as too much hassle. Wouldn't there also be quite a bit of caulking to remove?

[viperjpm2]

no caulking on my unit anyway... just a thick reusable "foam-like" gasket

[CampinDad]

Originally Posted by viperjpm2

no caulking on my unit anyway... just a thick reusable "foam-like" gasket

If that's the case, there is my answer. I'll take a look this evening. Will it be fairly obvious on how to remove it (bolts, electrical connections, etc.)? And are the electrical connections just plugs? Anything hardwired?

[viperjpm2]

yeah its fairly obvious for anyone with basic handy skills... most of the connections are "automotive type" plug connections but the 110V AC was connected with just a wire nut

It goes without saying... disconnect electrical before doing this! ;-)

[TexasBob]

Originally Posted by CampinDad

So, during our shopping/buying phase I continually reassured my DW that our PUP would easily fit into our garage, thus not having to pay to store it at another location (HOA... ) Well, turns out that would have been true except I never took the AC unit into account for the height . Now I'm looking at a total height of 83.5" and a garage opening of 82". I'm considering doing everything possible to get the PUP into the garage, but will likely wait until my dad is in town in a few weeks to help out - I would need to pull the manual release on the garage door and push it back an extra 8" or so and then chain it in place somehow, likely remove the bottom support bracket running the length of the garage door, and then lower the tire pressure to see if I can get clearance...

In the meantime though, I'll be putting the PUP into storage and have a few questions that I know have probably been answered on here repeatedly, but my forum search returned 477 results

1. I'll be on gravel, should I place boards under the tires?

Depends on how good the drainage is.

2. Do you remove your LP tanks or battery - are these prone to "walk" away?

I've never had that problem after 8 years. I guess it depends on the site security.

3. What's better for the tongue jack - leave the caster wheel on or take it off?

Opinion: Take the wheel off.

4. Should stabilizers go down? Should I put boards under them as well?

No, if you have a flat the full weight will go on the stabilizer.

5. What is the preferred hitch lock?

I have a hitch lock but half the time I forget to put it on, it is probably a good idea.

6. Anything else I may be forgetting?

Take the ground off the battery, consider adding a maintenance solar cell.

As always, thanks for any help - my DW keeps telling me how amazed she is at how quick and helpful everyone on these forums is!

My ideas, I willing to be disagreed with.

[dkb74]

Originally Posted by CampinDad

The other factor is that there is a 1.5-2" "step" up from my driveway to the garage.

Removing air from the tires will make it harder to get up that lip.


This is similar to a lock I bought for our camper: DeadBolt BLOCKHEAD Coupler Lock for 1-7/8" and 2" Couplers DeadBolt Locks TCL1


We remove our battery and lock it inside the camper when stored.


Not sure where you are located. Our camper sits on grass with sandy soil (typical of FL). We don't place anything under our tires. We don't put the stabilizer jacks down.

[CampinDad]

Originally Posted by dkb74

Removing air from the tires will make it harder to get up that lip.


This is similar to a lock I bought for our camper: DeadBolt BLOCKHEAD Coupler Lock for 1-7/8" and 2" Couplers DeadBolt Locks TCL1


We remove our battery and lock it inside the camper when stored.


Not sure where you are located. Our camper sits on grass with sandy soil (typical of FL). We don't place anything under our tires. We don't put the stabilizer jacks down.

That's the exact lock I picked up a few minutes ago at Camping World. Accidentally snagged the larger one last night. I went by a storage location nearby that I'll probably use if the garage doesn't work out and it will be sitting on new gravel. We're in Myrtle Beach, so under the gravel will be pretty sandy.

[BradinOhio]

The two things that seem to disappear from storage lots the most are propane tanks and batteries. When I stored mine, I removed the battery and used a cable lock to secure the propane tanks to the trailer frame. The cable lock fit under the propane tank cover and would stay on unless I had to refill the tanks.

[dkb74]

I think hubby put a cable lock on our propane tanks. Certainly, someone can cut it, but that would take effort. Thieves tend to be lazy.

[CampinDad]

Thanks Brad and Darlene. I actually picked up a cable lock as well earlier, but couldn't decided between that and taking them off.

[jmswms]

For some reason in the back of my mind when we owned a pop we were cautioned not to use a cover. Something about they are built different than campers and needed to be able to breath. Any thoughts?