Possibly dumb question about pop ups and fridges

[jimh]

Do u connect to the tow viehicle with a 7 way plug? If so, ur dc should have been supplied. Trailer battery should have been charged when u got there. Sounds like a fuse in the tow viehicle or near the bat.
I have a freezer in my trailer. the trailer bat wont last long on its owould like to know what u find. Electrical problems can b flustrating.

[HONDAMAN174]

I took mine off of the auto setting and manually put it to DC/AC. also, be careful if the fridge is on DC BEFORE you hook to your tow vehicle. For some reason, mine blows the main fuse if I connect to my truck with it on Dc. So I connect then select dc.. Happy camping

[goody59]

Never leave the fridge running on LP when driving. Very dangerous practice. the gas supply should be turned off on the bottle when travelling.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by goody59

Never leave the fridge running on LP when driving. Very dangerous practice. the gas supply should be turned off on the bottle when travelling.

not true. the vast majority of RV owners do this all the time.
only certain tunnels require shutting the propane off when traveling through.

[RubenZ]

I just plug in Trailer at home for a day before our trip and fridge usually stays cool enough till we get to destination.

[goody59]

Originally Posted by bikendan

not true. the vast majority of RV owners do this all the time.
only certain tunnels require shutting the propane off when traveling through.

I didn'y say it can't be done I would advise anybody not to as it is a recipie for disaster. What would happen if you developed a leak in the suppply for the cooktop whilst travelling whilst the fridge running on gas? One would assume it is possible for the gas levels to reach a condition where they could be ignited by the fridge flame? ByeBye RV and possible the vehicle occupants as a result. Not worth the risk is my opinion and the opinion of the general RV community I have delt with here.

[KyDan]

[QUOTE=goody59;130584... Not worth the risk is my opinion and the opinion of the general RV community I have delt with here.[/QUOTE]

Not so. We've discussed this here several times over the last couple years.
The majority of responders said they run with the LP on.

Whether you do is up to you but it's common practice to run with
the LP on.

(seems like we had a poll at one time, maybe someone can find it??)

[KyDan]

Here is the poll.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...off-12674.html

Out of 75 votes 80% said they run with the LP on.

[goody59]

Originally Posted by KyDan

Not so. We've discussed this here several times over the last couple years.
The majority of responders said they run with the LP on.

Whether you do is up to you but it's common practice to run with
the LP on.

(seems like we had a poll at one time, maybe someone can find it??)

Here as in Australia. Sorry if it was assumed I was talking about here as in there (USA) I refer to RV users here in Oz. It is not likely users here would drive with LP (Propane) turned on and being used. Dangerous practice if you want my opinion. Propane appliance manufacturers believe it is dangerous too and warn against it. Not sure why so many RV users wouldd believe it is a safe practice to travel with propane turned on. Each to his own I suppose.

[goody59]

Originally Posted by fisk

In case anyone cares, it didn't work. I unplugged the AC just before we left. I'm assuming it switched to battery, because the battery was almost dead when we got there two hours later. I had to hook up a battery charger to it for 20 minutes just to raise the roof. If it tried to switch to gas, it couldn't since I had that shut off.

Also, the fridge was not really cold at all. We still had to keep the cold food in a cooler with ice until the next morning.

Since the camper was on AC for several days before we left, and then connected my truck on the two hour drive there, AND still was dead when I got there, do you think it could be a problem with the battery? I was able to charge it and have power to raise the roof within 20 minutes. After being there for about 40 hours (connected to the camp AC), it sounded fine when I was lowering the roof. I realize that was less of a load, but it sounded like it had plenty of power.

oh well......

This is my take on it. Your fridge will run on 12 V supply but not through the 12 V supply on your tow vehicle to trailer plug connection. Your van battery will not charge either using this connection method unless you drive for about 12 hours a day maybe. The reason for this is called 'voltage drop' The auto wire gauge is way to light to supply the voltage required to charge van battery or run van fridge on 12 V efficiently to keep products cold enough.
What you have to do is either use a DC to DC battery charger to charge your van battery as you drive. That may or may not supply sufficient charge to the battery in the van to run the fridge on 12 V if the fridge is wired to the van battery with heavy cable. I am talking 3 to 5 AWG wire.
A better way to do this process with success is what I have done.
I run two batteries under hood. 12 volt start battery and a 12 volt 100 AMP Deep cycle battery connected with electronic isolator so the aux battery will not discharge the start battery as aux battery discharges. The aux battery will charge once start battery fully charged as you drive.
Next is connecting the Aux battery to the Van battery. The van battery is 100 AMP deep cycle battery. They are connected with 3AWG (25mm2 for me) cable positive and negative run from AUX battery to the rear of vehicle to 175 AMP Anderson plug. An Anderson plug lead to the van battery in same size cables. Use 50AMP to 100AMP fuse at either end of this close to each battery. The alternator will charge Van battery and will charge the Aux battery only when start battery if full.
Wire the fridge 12 volt supply to the van battery and use a fridge switch (RV Electronics - Manufacturer of Breaksafe, Fridge Switch and Water Level Indicator :: FridgeSwitch to prevent fridge flattening batteries when you are stopped. Use gas for long stops or AC power. Use heavy cable to wire the 12 volt fridge supply from van battery to avoid voltage drop. Voltage drop is the killer of 3 way fridge not running as it should. It will only be efficient with correct voltage. That can only be achieved by heavy cables. Verify what I have said at www.myswag.org or Welcome to FRIDGE & SOLAR
Using this set up will have you to be able to run your fridge on 12 volts only when you drive. It will allow you van battery to charge as you drive. Will prevent being stranded with a flat start battery. You will arrive with a charged Van battery, charged Aux battery, a charged Start battery and a fridge full of cold beer. What more can you ask for. 3 way obsorption fridges use a lot of power and will drain batteries if not isolated when vehicle are not running.

[KyDan]

Our 1st trailer had a 3 way power fridge also. It was a smaller 3 cu ft I think
with one door. Freezer was just a small compartment in the top of the fresh
food area with a plastic door. Just room for a couple of ice trays.

I'm going way back in the old memory banks here but I believe the manual
said specifically that DC mode was only to be used while the tow vehicle
was running. I assume they meant that your tow vehicle was connected
to the trailer 12v supply/battery via your trailer plug.
It also said that DC mode would not keep food as cold as either LP or 120v
modes.

The high amps load coupled with dismal cooling is one reason you hardly
see 3 way power on refrigerators today. I suppose they were a tad
more expensive as well.

Low battery voltage upon arrival at our destination coupled with luke
warm beer is why we stopped using the DC mode.
On AC or LP that little box would freeze our lettuce on a regular basis
but the beer was cold!

[goody59]

Full batteries, cold beer! This is my aim. I am collecting a new Forest River tent camper Flagstaff model 205A with a reversed floor plan for Australia in a weeks time. I have my wiring on Tow vehicle sorted out already with modifications. I will install fridge switch that will turn off 12v DC supply to fridge when vehicle is stopped. My wiring mods will make sure my battery is charged in the camper, in the vehicle (Start and Aux battery) and that my fridge will work on 12V and STAY COLD! When camped I will use propane or AC if available.