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Old 05-20-2014, 10:35 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
The blade ATC type fuse over 40 amps is called a Maxi-Fuse. I know on my H3 there is a large one (about 80 amps) inline with the brake booster. I wonder why FR went with a MIDI type fuse vs. a Maxi-fuse.
It's on the winch, so maybe it wasn't FR's decision? I don't know how these go together in the end, but it seems like FR is the contractor and throws these together using parts from other manufacturers.
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:04 PM   #12
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I have an 07 Rockwood 256 High Wall and seem to be having problems with my lift also.

The last time I raised the roof, it got about 75% up and petered out, so I used a pair of jumper cables, thinking the existing marine battery was going out. This jumper did not provide any extra "oomph". It barely crept the rest of the way up.

Last night I replaced the lift cable and tonight plan to pump the bottom tracks full of grease and try putting some gear oil in the spring conduit tubes and even add some silicone spray to the lift bars.

I would not know why changing the fuse would make any difference, but if the lubrication does not provide any help, I just might try that also.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:20 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by bigbadbrad View Post
I have an 07 Rockwood 256 High Wall and seem to be having problems with my lift also.

The last time I raised the roof, it got about 75% up and petered out, so I used a pair of jumper cables, thinking the existing marine battery was going out. This jumper did not provide any extra "oomph". It barely crept the rest of the way up.

Last night I replaced the lift cable and tonight plan to pump the bottom tracks full of grease and try putting some gear oil in the spring conduit tubes and even add some silicone spray to the lift bars.

I would not know why changing the fuse would make any difference, but if the lubrication does not provide any help, I just might try that also.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?
I had just done the oil/grease/silicone spray treatment about a month or so ago. Afterwards, it was still working, but struggling (smoke coming from the lift gear assembly after each time).

After it quit altogether, I thought maybe the battery was the problem. It was 5+ years old, and didn't seem to be holding any charge. However, still wouldn't work after a new battery.

So I took the cover off and started looking at the wiring, etc. Moving the cover pulled wires around so that the exposed terminal for the fuse was touching the gear of the winch assembly and that's when I noticed that: 1) it sparked like crazy; and 2) it worked. I had to use pliers and hold the fuse terminal against the gear to lower the roof.

That's when I grabbed a new fuse for $7ish bucks, put it in, and all worked better than it ever had under my ownership. I don't know enough about fuses/electrical systems to know why the gear helped, why it still worked (if it did) with the blown fuse, and why the fuse was so important.
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:24 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by dakranii View Post
It's on the winch, so maybe it wasn't FR's decision? I don't know how these go together in the end, but it seems like FR is the contractor and throws these together using parts from other manufacturers.
Your right; it probably is supplied as part of the winch.

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Originally Posted by dakranii View Post
I don't know enough about fuses/electrical systems to know why the gear helped, why it still worked (if it did) with the blown fuse, and why the fuse was so important.
Fuse is usually good or bad, but the connection at or to the fuse maybe bad and have high resistance. And the way these MIDI fuses are wired in and connected, when adding a standard Maxi fuse holder you may have created a better connection to the power circuit. (Just a thought.)
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:00 AM   #15
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Last night I eliminated the fuse by moving the connections. This still had no effect.

I lightly greased the tubes once I had the top all the way up. Had to use my drill with a 7/16 socket to fully raise, and by the way it took quite a few revolutions of my cordless dewalt drill set on speed #2. I could not imagine cranking by hand.

I did notice some some screeching coming from under the camper which I am assuming was from the springs rubbing inside the conduit tubes. I plan to squirt some oil inside there tonight. I am wondering why FR did not put some grease zerks in that area as well. seems there is a whole lot more friction in this area than in the center tube housing section.

I probably should have lightly greased the whole spring assembly when I replaced the cable just the other night.

My lift now loses power when the top only gets about half way up. I do not think the motor has enough power to lift the rest of the way.
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:26 PM   #16
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Someone told me, that with a power winch installed it takes 3000 turns of the screw to raise the roof one inch. Not sure if that ratio is true or not, but I had to raise mine once with a drill and it took probably 5 minutes (maybe more).

Screeching from underneath is not good. If like mine, you need to push a lot of grease through those grease fittings. First time I did mine, I pumped a full tube into each zerk fitting.

As for the corner springs...grease is too thick (per the dealer). When you drop the conduit down, you will notice there is not much clearance between the spring and the inside of the conduit.
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:03 PM   #17
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Does anyone have information on what the original lift on the camper is rated for? Pounds of pull and line speed?
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:55 PM   #18
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y 2009 256 highwall has an air conditionner 2 weeks ago the lift did not stop and would not shut-off it over travelled by 2 inches before i got the kill switch on battery shut I used the manual override to bring it down i turn it for 30 secondes it moved down a 1/4 inch. so i used my impact drill with 7/16 socket to bring it down. it worked well. Then i tried to lift it it when up with a little effort of the drill. then worked on getting replacement part because would no longer raise or lower the camper checked motor with ohm meter it was open circuit . I left that week to go camping without changing motor of lift system thinking i will raise with drill get set-up at campsite go to raise camper i get it up less then 1 inch when the head off the bolt of the override shears off. So i took everything apart to see if there is any other way to crank it up. I went to a tractor store bought a 2000lb come a long winch with a snatch block and some ubolts for 3/16 cable, tied the cable to the axel put the snatch block on cable hook the come a long on the snatch block tied the other end off the come a long to safety chains with a rated 1500lb carabiner and was able to raise my highwall and enjoyed the rest of my trip. The new electric winch is a total new design the emergency override is now 3/4 inch bolt that you crank from the side of unit insteed of the top.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:04 PM   #19
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For your problem i would check limit switch to see if the ajustment screew did not get loose and change position or the switch is functioning propperly since it is reversing polarity switch it is posible to have the motor activate when you touch the red wire to ground
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Old 07-14-2014, 10:18 AM   #20
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Where is adjustment screw I can't find mine. Pic. Would be great.


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