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Old 08-07-2016, 05:55 PM   #21
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Other than the TV and occasional charge with a charger, the only charging my 4-year old batteries receive is when plugged into the converter at home or the generator at a dispersed campstite, so something must be working ok; especially when I will run them for 4-5 days at very low temps and that will drop the batteries down (but I never let them drop below 12).

Bulk mode on the WFCO I have, is 14.4 as viewed via a Trimetric meter. I've seen that many times, when camping and a generator is plugged in, and when checking at home when parked. (Normally, plug it in, then check an hour later, then run out and check a few days later, etc. I have the Trimetric meter located so I can easily see it when opening the door on the popup.

I have had my deep cycles tested in an auto parts store in Moab at least twice out of curiosity and they had no problem (I just dropped them off and came back to PU; manager was a good friend and belonged to the same off-roading club, so I trusted him); possibly they had different equipment due to the high number of RVs visiting the area; never checked where I live now in ID. Therefore, I cannot just say all auto parts will test, just like someone can say no auto parts will check; cause evidently some will!

Do not believe a larger gauge cable is needed; really have not read about a breaking cable even if the system is jammed up. Believe the back pulley, or wiffletree woudld be destroyed before the cable would break. Believe it is rated for 7K and is aircraft quality, so a popup roof should not over stress it.

When I switched to a manual lift, I had to replace the cable, not because it was too skinny, but because it is common to cut it short at the winch pulley due to the design of the different types of mounting to the winch. (Power goes into the winch and is held in place with a set screw; manual requires a longer length to go out and around and be held in place by a bracket.) Therefore, I had to replace the cable. Old cable looked great; other than being about six inches too short, and used it with turnbuckles to help keep a wooden gate door to close evenly.

I guess to understand the system better, need to crawl under one, take it apart and see how it works.

Guess the only thing I will agree with is the fact that yes, the corner springs, arms, cable, pulley must be free to move and lubricated, if they cannot, replacing the winch will not solve anything.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
Other than the TV and occasional charge with a charger, the only charging my 4-year old batteries receive is when plugged into the converter at home or the generator at a dispersed campstite, so something must be working ok; especially when I will run them for 4-5 days at very low temps and that will drop the batteries down (but I never let them drop below 12).

Bulk mode on the WFCO I have, is 14.4 as viewed via a Trimetric meter. I've seen that many times, when camping and a generator is plugged in, and when checking at home when parked. (Normally, plug it in, then check an hour later, then run out and check a few days later, etc. I have the Trimetric meter located so I can easily see it when opening the door on the popup.
14.4 volts is pretty close to good enough... I read 13.8v on my old Greywolf, but I was still learning how all this works, so who knows. I assume you get up to 100% - FULL ... wonder how long that takes you to get from 12.0 volts to full and how much
AH of battery you have? Monitoring like you do is the ticket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
I have had my deep cycles tested in an auto parts store in Moab at least twice out of curiosity and they had no problem (I just dropped them off and came back to PU); possibly they had different equipment due to the high number of RVs visiting the area; never checked where I live now in ID.
You might be right, but again, I test my own. I have seen batteries sold to people who didn't need one ... just sayin'

Quote:
Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
Do not believe a larger gauge cable is needed; really have not read about a breaking cable even if the system is jammed up.

I'm talking about the power cable to the winch to the lift cable. I would want to prove the cable delivering B+ as well as the grounding, based on winch current, by calculating voltage drop. If it is large enough, I wouldn't waste money rewiring unnecessarily.


Quote:
Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
When I switched to a manual lift, I had to replace the cable, not because it was too skinny, but because it is common to cut it short at the winch pulley due to the design of the different types of mounting to the winch. (Power goes into the winch and is held in place with a set screw; manual requires a longer length to go out and around and be held in place by a bracket.)

I guess to understand the system better, need to crawl under one, take it apart and see how it works.

Guess the only thing I will agree with is the fact that yes, the corner springs, arms, cable, pulley must be free to move and lubricated, if they cannot, replacing the winch will not solve anything.
See we can agree on one thing I helped my son replace a broken cable on an old Coleman... can't remember it being all that difficult and we both had all our fingers when finished.
WW
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:54 PM   #23
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Lots of good information regarding batteries on this post, make me wished I paid attention to the electrical portion of shop class oh so many years ago.

The battery when being charged read 14.6 and after charging was at 13.6. It is plugged into shore when it is stored in the garage so the battery is constantly being trickled charged. It is probably the original battery (7 years old) and I imagine is on its way out and I expect to get a new one sooner rather than later.

The winch itself is pretty well lubed up and everything that should be lubed is.

I've always been concerned about the winch and after talking to the dealership the winch might be faulty. I'm taking it in next week and will find out soon enough if it is the winch, the battery or both. Just glad to hopefully have a resolution soon. I'd like to be able to hit the winch switch without thinking "please work!"
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:59 PM   #24
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i have a similar issue with my 2014 rockwood premier, i have no problem raising the unit with the power winch but when lowering it will stop midway (i hear no popping or clicking noise-just goes no further) and have to lower it manually. if anyone has any advice on this matter it would be greatly appreciated. thank you!!
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:05 AM   #25
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replace power winch

michaelbenner

what manual winch did you use to replace?
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Old 08-12-2016, 04:01 AM   #26
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I think the winch was a DLB 1200A, but all the paperwork is unreachable at the moment. Goshen Stamping sent the right model to me just by model number of my trailer.

Note: They also said the winch handle I needed was the 9 inch model. It works, but if I shove it all the way into the winch mechanism, the handle hits my propane tanks when turning. I have dual propane. If you have single, it will work. Otherwise, I recommend the 12 inch model.
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Old 08-27-2016, 02:45 PM   #27
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An update to my original post....I took the trailer into the dealer and the winch motor is faulty and is being replaced under warranty. While I haven't gotten the full explanation they said something was triggering the motor into thinking that the trailer had reached its maximum lift, then would stop, reset, and start again only to trip once more. which is probably why I blew the fuses before.
Unfortunately it takes about 4 weeks for the new winch to arrive, but I feel better knowing that this issue will be resolved.
The battery is nearing the end of its life but still works and I'll probably get a new one next year.



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