Refrigerator on MAC 206LTD pop-up

[vikingpick]

I have a MAC 206LTD pop-up camper and I don't know how the refrigerator works and the manual isn't much help. There is a green switch and a red switch. I assume one is for using propane and one is for battery/electric power? Also, on the knob - are the lower numbers or higher numbers colder? If anyone can shed some light on this, it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[bikendan]

first, i'll move this to the Popup section for better responses.

then you need to at least post the year of the 206LTD and it would be more helpful to post the make and model of fridge.

[Jeep4Two]

On my dometic in an A126 the red and green are for 12v and 120v operation (never have both on at the same time!). There is a separate thermostat knob lower on the unit toward the bottom for gas. On mine set it to off when no lp is needed or to the desired cooling level and light the pilot when Needing to use lp.

Yours may differ so post up the year of your camper and hopefully someone with experience on that model will chime in.

[vikingpick]

Thanks. The year of my MAC 206LTD pop-up is 2011.

[Blackrock]

There are two switches, The narrow red one is for 12V operation (drains one battery in less than 2 hours if not hooked to the tow vehicle). A wide green on for 110V operation when you are plugged in at home or CG.

For propane operation you may have to manually light the pilot, Turn the propane knob to Hi and depress it and hold it in while pushing the piezo lighter a couple times. Mine was real tough to get lit at times. I kept the propane knob on med most all the time. The other knob is cold setting for when you are using the 12v or 119v.

Hope this helps.

[vikingpick]

Thanks for the info Blackrock. I appreciate it. For the narrow red one (12V operation) - can I turn this one on to get the refrigerator cold while driving a few hours to our campsite? I assume since it will be hooked up with our vehicle, it won't drain the battery while driving? When I get to our campsite, I assume it is best to turn off the red switch and turn on the green switch (110V) to use the campground power? Also, do you know which numbers on the knob (lower or higher numbers) are colder/warmer?

[Blackrock]

Yes you can run the 12v switch on while traveling and for short stops but switch it to 110v or propane for longer stays. The little fridge will keep things cool enough for about four hours without any power. The coldness settings go up and I ran mine about the mid range. It helps to plug in to 110v at home the night before you leave then to 12v while on the road.

[vikingpick]

@ Blackrock Thanks again....I will make sure I plug it the 110V the night before we leave as well.

[goody59]

Originally Posted by vikingpick

I have a MAC 206LTD pop-up camper and I don't know how the refrigerator works and the manual isn't much help. There is a green switch and a red switch. I assume one is for using propane and one is for battery/electric power? Also, on the knob - are the lower numbers or higher numbers colder? If anyone can shed some light on this, it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

You refridgerator will work well on 12 V when driving but it is about 10amp drain so it zaps a battery very quickly as stated. I have a heavy self installed power supply cable from my tow vehicle that goes to a motion switch that stops power being used when your car is stationary like for lunch or sight seeing. This prevents flattening your battery. The fridge will work well on 12 V if the supply current is sufficient as in supply of about 12.7 Volts for sufficient fridge operation but not via the standard plug wiring used to connect trailer to car. There is a complicated explination for this process and it gets technical so you may not wish to hear it. I for one don't use gas for anything whilst driving. My opinion using gas whilst driving is dangerous but that is entirely a different subject that gets discussed on a regular basis.

[Briorick]

Originally Posted by vikingpick

Also, do you know which numbers on the knob (lower or higher numbers) are colder/warmer?

On our Pup the dial settings are from 0-7. Which I'm sure are the same as yours. We do the same as Blackrock has suggested, and it works out perfectly. Set the dial at 4-5 and let it do it's thing.

[Briorick]

Originally Posted by Blackrock

Yes you can run the 12v switch on while traveling and for short stops but switch it to 110v or propane for longer stays. The little fridge will keep things cool enough for about four hours without any power. The coldness settings go up and I ran mine about the mid range. It helps to plug in to 110v at home the night before you leave then to 12v while on the road.

Blackrock, the one thing I do have a question about is "do I have to have or is it a requirement to have the fridge in the "off" position BEFORE plugging in to the house"? This is unclear in my manual. I'm sure it would be the best procedure, but would like some clarification just to ease my mind. Thanks in advance.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Briorick

Blackrock, the one thing I do have a question about is "do I have to have or is it a requirement to have the fridge in the "off" position BEFORE plugging in to the house"? This is unclear in my manual. I'm sure it would be the best procedure, but would like some clarification just to ease my mind. Thanks in advance.

I may be wrong but doesn't it automatically switch over ?

[Briorick]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

I may be wrong but doesn't it automatically switch over ?

Not that I'm aware of. If the fridge toggle switch is in the "off" position, it's off.

I just want to make sure that IF I forget to turn off the 12vac switch while breaking camp and returning home, and then next time I shore line before going out, I don't need to worry about the fridge should I had forgotten to turn the switch off. I am pretty attentive to this, but we do get easily distracted at times. Just trying to avoid any type of surges. Thanks.

[SchafferFamily]

I connect to the van and then turn on the Red 12V for drives of 3 hrs or more, gets the fridge cool enough to load things from the cooler when we setup camp. After about 10-12 hrs on setting 5 it gets to about 42*.

If going local or a short tow, I plug the camper in the night before and switch on the green 120V switch. Then, turn it off when I hookup to the van, switch to 12V, and after checking the camp shore power I'll turn it back on to 120V after switching off the 12V red switch.

We just got our camper a few weeks ago and only have two trips on it, so we haven't used the LP to keep it cool except for the demo when we picked up the camper.

[Briorick]

Originally Posted by SchafferFamily

I connect to the van and then turn on the Red 12V for drives of 3 hrs or more, gets the fridge cool enough to load things from the cooler when we setup camp. After about 10-12 hrs on setting 5 it gets to about 42*.

If going local or a short tow, I plug the camper in the night before and switch on the green 120V switch. Then, turn it off when I hookup to the van, switch to 12V, and after checking the camp shore power I'll turn it back on to 120V after switching off the 12V red switch.

We just got our camper a few weeks ago and only have two trips on it, so we haven't used the LP to keep it cool except for the demo when we picked up the camper.

Thank you. I do the same when preparing an outing. LOL, I was confusing myself in my 12V vs. 120V Sheesh!

I am still curious to know if the 120V switch ( make sure I have this correct now ) has to be "OFF" before plugging into any Shore Power? And then turned ON, or does it really matter?

We, here at home, are having a little debate over this and a possible surge effect to the fridge. Thanks all.

[SchafferFamily]

I think it would be best to have it off before plugging into Shore power, but I don't think it is a requirement. I prefer to have no load on the system when I go to plug things in, even have the shore power breaker off.

Now, if you have the 120V switch on, but the shore power breaker off at the pedestal when you plug in, that's fine, as there is no juice running thru the line at the time of contact.

[Briorick]

Originally Posted by SchafferFamily

I think it would be best to have it off before plugging into Shore power, but I don't think it is a requirement. I prefer to have no load on the system when I go to plug things in, even have the shore power breaker off.

Now, if you have the 120V switch on, but the shore power breaker off at the pedestal when you plug in, that's fine, as there is no juice running thru the line at the time of contact.

Thanks, that's what we were thinking as well, but felt it best to ask others for their opinion and experiences. We love all the options this NTU Pup offers, but it sure has been a learning experience. And this forum seems to be a "been there, done that" making it so great asking. By this time next year we will be ole pros. Thanks again.