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Old 09-08-2011, 10:45 AM   #21
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I used 3AWG but I have been told 5 AWG would be ok but minimum to use to get power to rear of vehicle from Auxillery battery (2nd) under bonnet or Start battery if that is all you have. Rear of vehicle Anderson plug connection to van battery with same heavy cables. Then heavy cables to the 12 power supply of the 3 way fridge. That is the best way to achieve cold fridge and full batteries as you drive. Fridge switch stops 12V being used by fridge when vehicle stops. This prevents fridge drawing down on van battery or tow vehicle batteries if motor not running. It is win win as far as I am concerned.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:48 AM   #22
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I did a voltage drop check using multimeter yesterday and was only down 0.01 volts from Auxillery battery under hood to the rear Anderson plug 14.2V up front and 14.01V at rear plug). I will check the voltage drop at the fridge when I modify wiring to my planned set up in the new van.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:44 AM   #23
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OK - back from my first trip. First I have to say the A126 was a dream for my wife and I. We really enjoyed the camper and even as novices (our camper wasn't well organized for our few days of living) we felt like it was a total success. Only had one Sput (put the regulator on the camper hookup then host to the spigot, it leaked like crazy and I thought the hookup was busted until another camper came over to check out the a-frame and suggested I put the regulator at the spigot (logically) to stop the leak).

Regarding DC Fridge: We pre-cooled the day before on 120vac (empty) and then filled it prior to leaving with cold food/drinks for the trip. The temp when we left inside the fridge was about 34F. We switched to DC after unhooking the AC from the house and were connected an on the road within a few minutes. I left the thermometer in the fridge and checked when we arrived. Inside of the fidge read 37F (within the range of fluctuation observed while on AC shore power).

Voltages: I have a negligible drop of voltage between the battery posts and Bargman plug (7-pin round plug), about 0.1vdc.

I had hoped to check the trailer battery level before leaving, and again after arriving at camp (before going back on shore power) to see how much (if any) drain there was on the battery during travel running the fridge on 12vdc.

I didn't however feel my numbers were right. For some reason my DMM was reading 16.23vdc when checking the voltage at the trailers battery posts after unhooking shore power (before leaving home, fully charged). I'm sure I'm overlooking some 'rule' as I'm not an electrical guru but something didn't seem right about seeing that kind of voltage on the battery. However, I did check once arriving at the camp site and unhooking the trailer from the camper, voltage read 16.19vdc on my DMM so that's a negligible change in voltage.

Why am I seeing 16.23vdc on my fully charged 12v trailer battery? Doesn't make sense. Could it be a grounding issue? I was measuring across the pos and neg battery posts with the trailer unhooked (I believe the leveling jacks were down).

Overall however I believe that in my setup (2011 Jeep Wrangler 2 Door, with Mopar OEM 7-pin wiring harness installed to factory recommendations) running the fridge on 12v while traveling is going to work fine. That eliminates my need run the LP while traveling and simplifies things (for me anyway).
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2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
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Old 09-12-2011, 03:23 PM   #24
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what is the voltage on the battery of the tow vehicle? my guess would be the multimeter needs calibrating. it should still measure change so sounds like ur ok.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:24 PM   #25
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I'll have a look at the TV and see the voltage there. I remember checking the Bargman plug voltages and seeing ranges in the 12.xx CDC ranges.
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2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
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Old 09-19-2011, 06:21 PM   #26
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delayed response sorry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep4Two View Post
OK - back from my first trip. First I have to say the A126 was a dream for my wife and I. We really enjoyed the camper and even as novices (our camper wasn't well organized for our few days of living) we felt like it was a total success. Only had one Sput (put the regulator on the camper hookup then host to the spigot, it leaked like crazy and I thought the hookup was busted until another camper came over to check out the a-frame and suggested I put the regulator at the spigot (logically) to stop the leak).

Regarding DC Fridge: We pre-cooled the day before on 120vac (empty) and then filled it prior to leaving with cold food/drinks for the trip. The temp when we left inside the fridge was about 34F. We switched to DC after unhooking the AC from the house and were connected an on the road within a few minutes. I left the thermometer in the fridge and checked when we arrived. Inside of the fidge read 37F (within the range of fluctuation observed while on AC shore power).

Voltages: I have a negligible drop of voltage between the battery posts and Bargman plug (7-pin round plug), about 0.1vdc.

I had hoped to check the trailer battery level before leaving, and again after arriving at camp (before going back on shore power) to see how much (if any) drain there was on the battery during travel running the fridge on 12vdc.

I didn't however feel my numbers were right. For some reason my DMM was reading 16.23vdc when checking the voltage at the trailers battery posts after unhooking shore power (before leaving home, fully charged). I'm sure I'm overlooking some 'rule' as I'm not an electrical guru but something didn't seem right about seeing that kind of voltage on the battery. However, I did check once arriving at the camp site and unhooking the trailer from the camper, voltage read 16.19vdc on my DMM so that's a negligible change in voltage.

Why am I seeing 16.23vdc on my fully charged 12v trailer battery? Doesn't make sense. Could it be a grounding issue? I was measuring across the pos and neg battery posts with the trailer unhooked (I believe the leveling jacks were down).

Overall however I believe that in my setup (2011 Jeep Wrangler 2 Door, with Mopar OEM 7-pin wiring harness installed to factory recommendations) running the fridge on 12v while traveling is going to work fine. That eliminates my need run the LP while traveling and simplifies things (for me anyway).
The 16.23vdc is a concern as it is far too hig from a 12v battery. 14 maybe max is what it should be. Try another multi meter. The fridge wiring and function though sound good enough. Far safer than running on propane.
I appologise for delay in response. I have just come back from a trip collecting our new Forest River 205A MAC camper van. Very happy with it so far . Spent 1 night in it on way home. It was purchased 10 hours awayby road from my home. Easy to tow and set up and very well appointed. I will make a few mods to it to make it my own. The 205A designates it as an Australian model with reversed or mirrror floor plan as we exit van on the left side here.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:39 PM   #27
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Congrats on the new camper.

I verified today the my dmm is whacked. Ordered a new one as thenone I had was a $10 Wallyworld crapper. The meter I borrowed tested voltages in the right range. Next trip I'll get good readings to verify I'm good on 12vdc.
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TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:47 AM   #28
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Sounds like a plan. I hope all is well.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:22 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goody59 View Post
I used 3AWG but I have been told 5 AWG would be ok but minimum to use to get power to rear of vehicle from Auxillery battery (2nd) under bonnet or Start battery if that is all you have.
Just to run the fridge 5 AWG is super overkill. You can safely run 20amps (240 watts) with 12 gauge wire. 30amps (360 watts) with 10 gauge. Distances less than 100 feet will have a minimal voltage loss (a couple tenths of a volt).

Bean
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:55 AM   #30
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Just to run the fridge 5 AWG is super overkill. You can safely run 20amps (240 watts) with 12 gauge wire. 30amps (360 watts) with 10 gauge. Distances less than 100 feet will have a minimal voltage loss (a couple tenths of a volt).

Bean
Yes, overkill it may be but it is not just to run fridge though. It is source of fused power for additional items in rear of cargo area like a second car Engel fridge/freezer, inverter if required, air compressor and any other accessory I need in rear of cargo area of vehicle. This same power supply in same gauge runs the 12 v DC for 3 way fridge in campervan as I drive and charges the deep cycle battery in campervan as I drive via my vehicle's alternator. I may have achieved all this with less in wire size but the cost is not much more and the work in fitting is the same. It was a call I made at time of installation to future proof the installation and needs.
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:52 PM   #31
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DC consumption

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Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
I had a previous trailer with a 3 way power fridge.
I found that it actually partially drained my trailer battery while on the
road. It really is a HUGE amp draw on 12v dc power.
.....
many of us run with the LP on.
Like Goody59 said, it's not safe to run LP on the road. Manual may not say it, but it did say so in older fridges and I doubt things have changed drastically since then.

And - yes, big new LP fridge does consume 12V when running on LP, and a lot of it. About 12 AH daily. This is MORE than top-loading non-LP fridge like Engel or Sundanzer draws when running on DC. Most Engel models run on both AC and DC, Sundanzer is 12V DC only, and they make sense for both cooling on the run and boondocking, even if you don't have solar panels. Engel is specifically made to work in moving vehicles, good protection against vibration. There are 2 problems, though.
1) These models are small: the biggest AC/DC Engel MT80 is mere 2.5 cu.ft, and Sundanzer DCR50 is smaller yet - 1.8 cu.ft.
2) Even small 23" Sundanzer can be a problem to get through some trailer doors. Engel is narrower, though.

There are good 5.8 cu.ft models from Sundanzer and better yet models from Steca, but with 26" or 27" width it would be impossible to get in most trailers without removing large window (and even then it might not be possible in some trailers). Taking dead LPG fridge out can be same difficult, btw.

Sorry for this rant, - just keep in mind that modern LP fridges consume both LP and 12V power. Older LP fridges have no electronics and therefore don't consume 12V in LP mode.

PS: my typo, sorry. Engel MT80 is 2.7 cu.ft. MT60 is 2 cu.ft. Last 2 numbers in model name are quarts (liters).
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:27 AM   #32
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They work best on Propane I believe, second on 110 and third 12V. The problem is that I consider running fridge on gas whilst driving is dangerous and that is backed up by manufacturers warnings. 12 V is ok if you can supply 12 v. What I mean is that 12 via the trailer plug connection from tow vehicle is not 12 v due to voltage drop between vehicle battery and van battery usually. This applies to charging tent trailer deep cycle battery as you are driving. Voltage drop is the problem here. It would take a bloody long drive to keep tent trailer battery charged from vehicle through trailer plug. Solution- run heavy cable from under the hood battery (Fused at battery) to Anderson plug at rear of vehicle and Anderson plug with same heavy cable to the tent trailer battery (Fuse at battery) I am talking battery cable size cable. Large cable I know but that will avoid voltage drop and allow correct voltage to charge battery from vehicle alternator and supply sufficient 12 V to run your 3 way fridge. Dont leave fridge running though when you pary for and time longer than 30 minutes as fridge has large power draw and that will flatten vehicle battery and tent trailer battery quickly when motor not running. I used 3 AWG fused cables in positive and negative runs to Anderson plug and then to tent trailer battery to avoid voltage drop and charge tent trailer battery and run 12 for fridge as I drive. That was my choice out of the options available.
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Old 09-25-2011, 04:33 PM   #33
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They {3 way fridges} work best on Propane I believe, second on 110 and third 12V.
Speaking of cooling - yeah, though not much difference. LP cooling can be poor when ventilation is poor or ambient temps are too high. And in electric mode 3-ways are drawing 2-3 times more than the worst upright DC fridge, not to mention top-loading (chest style) DC fridges. Truck campers who replaced their dead LP with an upright DC fridge (still energy-inefficient, compared to DC top-loader), are happy and don't want to look back. TC are a different crowd, though - they often camp off-grid and don't have to deal with a long cable from TV.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:46 PM   #34
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Yes, I agree with what you are saying for sure. Correct ventilation is so important in this 3 way fridge install.
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