Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-08-2011, 11:45 AM   #21
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 83
I used 3AWG but I have been told 5 AWG would be ok but minimum to use to get power to rear of vehicle from Auxillery battery (2nd) under bonnet or Start battery if that is all you have. Rear of vehicle Anderson plug connection to van battery with same heavy cables. Then heavy cables to the 12 power supply of the 3 way fridge. That is the best way to achieve cold fridge and full batteries as you drive. Fridge switch stops 12V being used by fridge when vehicle stops. This prevents fridge drawing down on van battery or tow vehicle batteries if motor not running. It is win win as far as I am concerned.
__________________

__________________
goody59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2011, 11:48 AM   #22
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 83
I did a voltage drop check using multimeter yesterday and was only down 0.01 volts from Auxillery battery under hood to the rear Anderson plug 14.2V up front and 14.01V at rear plug). I will check the voltage drop at the fridge when I modify wiring to my planned set up in the new van.
__________________

__________________
goody59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2011, 11:44 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
OK - back from my first trip. First I have to say the A126 was a dream for my wife and I. We really enjoyed the camper and even as novices (our camper wasn't well organized for our few days of living) we felt like it was a total success. Only had one Sput (put the regulator on the camper hookup then host to the spigot, it leaked like crazy and I thought the hookup was busted until another camper came over to check out the a-frame and suggested I put the regulator at the spigot (logically) to stop the leak).

Regarding DC Fridge: We pre-cooled the day before on 120vac (empty) and then filled it prior to leaving with cold food/drinks for the trip. The temp when we left inside the fridge was about 34F. We switched to DC after unhooking the AC from the house and were connected an on the road within a few minutes. I left the thermometer in the fridge and checked when we arrived. Inside of the fidge read 37F (within the range of fluctuation observed while on AC shore power).

Voltages: I have a negligible drop of voltage between the battery posts and Bargman plug (7-pin round plug), about 0.1vdc.

I had hoped to check the trailer battery level before leaving, and again after arriving at camp (before going back on shore power) to see how much (if any) drain there was on the battery during travel running the fridge on 12vdc.

I didn't however feel my numbers were right. For some reason my DMM was reading 16.23vdc when checking the voltage at the trailers battery posts after unhooking shore power (before leaving home, fully charged). I'm sure I'm overlooking some 'rule' as I'm not an electrical guru but something didn't seem right about seeing that kind of voltage on the battery. However, I did check once arriving at the camp site and unhooking the trailer from the camper, voltage read 16.19vdc on my DMM so that's a negligible change in voltage.

Why am I seeing 16.23vdc on my fully charged 12v trailer battery? Doesn't make sense. Could it be a grounding issue? I was measuring across the pos and neg battery posts with the trailer unhooked (I believe the leveling jacks were down).

Overall however I believe that in my setup (2011 Jeep Wrangler 2 Door, with Mopar OEM 7-pin wiring harness installed to factory recommendations) running the fridge on 12v while traveling is going to work fine. That eliminates my need run the LP while traveling and simplifies things (for me anyway).
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2011, 04:23 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
jimh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Lake Charles, La.
Posts: 1,531
what is the voltage on the battery of the tow vehicle? my guess would be the multimeter needs calibrating. it should still measure change so sounds like ur ok.
__________________
jimh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2011, 09:24 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
I'll have a look at the TV and see the voltage there. I remember checking the Bargman plug voltages and seeing ranges in the 12.xx CDC ranges.
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 07:21 PM   #26
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 83
delayed response sorry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep4Two View Post
OK - back from my first trip. First I have to say the A126 was a dream for my wife and I. We really enjoyed the camper and even as novices (our camper wasn't well organized for our few days of living) we felt like it was a total success. Only had one Sput (put the regulator on the camper hookup then host to the spigot, it leaked like crazy and I thought the hookup was busted until another camper came over to check out the a-frame and suggested I put the regulator at the spigot (logically) to stop the leak).

Regarding DC Fridge: We pre-cooled the day before on 120vac (empty) and then filled it prior to leaving with cold food/drinks for the trip. The temp when we left inside the fridge was about 34F. We switched to DC after unhooking the AC from the house and were connected an on the road within a few minutes. I left the thermometer in the fridge and checked when we arrived. Inside of the fidge read 37F (within the range of fluctuation observed while on AC shore power).

Voltages: I have a negligible drop of voltage between the battery posts and Bargman plug (7-pin round plug), about 0.1vdc.

I had hoped to check the trailer battery level before leaving, and again after arriving at camp (before going back on shore power) to see how much (if any) drain there was on the battery during travel running the fridge on 12vdc.

I didn't however feel my numbers were right. For some reason my DMM was reading 16.23vdc when checking the voltage at the trailers battery posts after unhooking shore power (before leaving home, fully charged). I'm sure I'm overlooking some 'rule' as I'm not an electrical guru but something didn't seem right about seeing that kind of voltage on the battery. However, I did check once arriving at the camp site and unhooking the trailer from the camper, voltage read 16.19vdc on my DMM so that's a negligible change in voltage.

Why am I seeing 16.23vdc on my fully charged 12v trailer battery? Doesn't make sense. Could it be a grounding issue? I was measuring across the pos and neg battery posts with the trailer unhooked (I believe the leveling jacks were down).

Overall however I believe that in my setup (2011 Jeep Wrangler 2 Door, with Mopar OEM 7-pin wiring harness installed to factory recommendations) running the fridge on 12v while traveling is going to work fine. That eliminates my need run the LP while traveling and simplifies things (for me anyway).
The 16.23vdc is a concern as it is far too hig from a 12v battery. 14 maybe max is what it should be. Try another multi meter. The fridge wiring and function though sound good enough. Far safer than running on propane.
I appologise for delay in response. I have just come back from a trip collecting our new Forest River 205A MAC camper van. Very happy with it so far . Spent 1 night in it on way home. It was purchased 10 hours awayby road from my home. Easy to tow and set up and very well appointed. I will make a few mods to it to make it my own. The 205A designates it as an Australian model with reversed or mirrror floor plan as we exit van on the left side here.
__________________
goody59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 11:39 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Jeep4Two's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 615
Congrats on the new camper.

I verified today the my dmm is whacked. Ordered a new one as thenone I had was a $10 Wallyworld crapper. The meter I borrowed tested voltages in the right range. Next trip I'll get good readings to verify I'm good on 12vdc.
__________________
Jeep4Two
2011 FR Rockwood Premiere A126 Hard Side
TV=2011 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2 Dr
Reese 66065 WDH, Curt WDH Shank #17120
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Mopar 7-pin Harness
B&M Transmission Cooler (#70268)
Jeep4Two is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2011, 01:47 AM   #28
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 83
Sounds like a plan. I hope all is well.
__________________
goody59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2011, 07:22 AM   #29
Flagstaff 625D Popup
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Shiremanstown PA
Posts: 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by goody59 View Post
I used 3AWG but I have been told 5 AWG would be ok but minimum to use to get power to rear of vehicle from Auxillery battery (2nd) under bonnet or Start battery if that is all you have.
Just to run the fridge 5 AWG is super overkill. You can safely run 20amps (240 watts) with 12 gauge wire. 30amps (360 watts) with 10 gauge. Distances less than 100 feet will have a minimal voltage loss (a couple tenths of a volt).

Bean
__________________
bean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2011, 07:55 AM   #30
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by bean View Post
Just to run the fridge 5 AWG is super overkill. You can safely run 20amps (240 watts) with 12 gauge wire. 30amps (360 watts) with 10 gauge. Distances less than 100 feet will have a minimal voltage loss (a couple tenths of a volt).

Bean
Yes, overkill it may be but it is not just to run fridge though. It is source of fused power for additional items in rear of cargo area like a second car Engel fridge/freezer, inverter if required, air compressor and any other accessory I need in rear of cargo area of vehicle. This same power supply in same gauge runs the 12 v DC for 3 way fridge in campervan as I drive and charges the deep cycle battery in campervan as I drive via my vehicle's alternator. I may have achieved all this with less in wire size but the cost is not much more and the work in fitting is the same. It was a call I made at time of installation to future proof the installation and needs.
__________________

__________________
goody59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:57 AM.