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Old 04-29-2014, 12:25 AM   #11
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: BC Canada
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Just a note, my brother has a manual crank and was putting tension into the green cable to be sure of height and it snapped at the crimp. It is only for visual and will not stop roof in proper position.

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Old 04-29-2014, 05:41 AM   #12
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Location: Incheon, South Korea
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We have the same lift motor on our trailer. It lifts fine, but when you think that it requires 40 amps of current to run, you know it is working hard. The manual even talks about the grease smoking!
A simple winch should be fine as long as it doesn't lift too fast. You won't need a 2,000 lb. winch, though.

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Old 04-29-2014, 10:57 AM   #13
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At 500# load, the Warn lifts at 11'/minute. I am going to look at 1k to 1.5K winches, unfortunately Warn only makes 2000#s and up. I think they have a very good reputation and will be a reliable product.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:17 AM   #14
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I got an email from Goshen Stampings. They make the lift mechanism. They thought the 2000# winch was appropriate.

I need to double back with Warn to make sure the ATV winch has a braking system. Pretty sure it does and then finalize the mounting design.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:30 PM   #15
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 57
Originally Posted by fonzie View Post
Are you on shore power or only on battery power? Is battery fully charge. A low battery will make the motor work harder increasing required amps to operate.
I'm going to jump into this thread not to thread-jack but so I don't create a new, related topic.

My P55000 has struggled every time I've used it, but it's worked. I squirted oil in all four corner channels, sprayed the risers with silicone spray.

This weekend at the campsite the power lift raised the roof about 75%, then I had to go lift it overhead like doing shoulder presses while my wife ran the lift. Now, in my driveway at home, it won't raise more than 12 inches.

My first thought is maybe it's battery related. I tried turning on the interior lights Friday after being plugged into all day and they didn't turn on. The 30-amp fuse at the battery was busted, so I replaced it, but still no lights. So I think my battery is bad.

My question is, how do I test the battery? Is there something I can add to it to show me the charge level to know if it's bad? I'm quite new to this. I'm guessing I can go to Autozone/Walmart and get a battery tester that hooks onto the battery?
2008 Rockwood Freedom 2318G
2008 Dodge Caravan 4.0L
- Tow package
- Airlift 1000 air bags
- Curt Class III receiver (13364)
- Tekonsha 90160 Primus IQ Brake Control
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:38 PM   #16
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,805
You can use a volt/ohmmeter (aka multi-meter) on the voltage testing setting,

And if your vent caps can be removed on your battery check the specific gravity of the cells with a battery hydrometer. (If cells are low on fluid, fill with DISTILLED water.)

Of you can take it to a local auto store and they should be able to test it. But you should be traveling with at least a volt/ohmmeter.

Should also add that you need to grease the channels under the trailer where the cables go into from the motor and out to the corners. My Flagstaff has two grease fittings; front and back, and I add about a tube of grease each spring.
I also drop down the corner conduits and add 30W oil into the conduits to lube the corner.
Also recommended to pull the bottom off the power motor assembly and spray down the drum, where it winds the cable with a good lube. (I lube it down with WD-40; more or less to clean the area, the do all the other greasing and lubing and then I spray with a good silicone grease and put the lower cover back on.)

Trailer: Lifted 228BH, heavy duty springs and Yokohama tires
TV: 2016 GMC Sierra Z71 4x4 CC, SLT
Spare TV: Two Alaskan Malamutes

Living somewhere in ID; previously lived in Moab UT; previous to that, don't ask!
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