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Old 08-13-2016, 07:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steamboatscott View Post
Hey f5moab, if you see this, can you PM me directly? I've not received much insight to my question of long term use on bumpy roads. Hoping you have more perspective from there in Moab.
PM sent...there are some things to watch out for on Moab area trails.
I mention the broken spring...
This, I believe, is the trail that did in the spring...


Or, it might have been this one...


Also why the Goodyear Marathons failed too often, and the battery fluid bounced out.

But I can't complain; it was fun and that is why I purchased a popup; never saw any 5th wheels or Berkshires where I used to camp
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Old 08-13-2016, 07:52 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Sistahazel View Post
Personally, I'd stay away from top mounted racks. Especially if you have to penetrate the roof for hardware mounting. Spend that money for a professional fabricator to weld a good solid bumper w/2" reciever to your rig to carry your bike rack. I did just that.

see attached
I detest trailer hitch racks. Bikes are subject to the worst of dirt and debris.
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:50 AM   #13
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I would be a little edgy having the bikes bouncing directly onto the pup roof over rough roads as you describe. It seems to me that would be asking for trouble. If the pro-rack (we use that one, and IMHO the tie down procedure is not too bad) is not for you, you might investigate a custom support system attached to the trailer frame that a rack over the roof could sit on. I saw one on these forums recently for a canoe rack where the over-the-roof section slid into the support uprights and pinned on thereby transferring all the weight directly down to the frame. I did experiment with a rear mounted bike rack, but that adversely affected the weight distribution (Doh!). And it will bounce more as you observed. I'd expect whatever you decide upon will need strap/tie-down to negate the sway you will get.
Cheers.
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Old 08-16-2016, 10:50 AM   #14
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I use a modified Prorack with modified, heavier vertical tubes. This holds
my bikes very well. While I do not take my HW296 down anything worse
than dirt roads, some would consider Georgia Highways as "Unpaved".
They roll front to back but do not bounce.
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:02 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 2gwright View Post
I use a modified Prorack with modified, heavier vertical tubes. This holds
my bikes very well. While I do not take my HW296 down anything worse
than dirt roads, some would consider Georgia Highways as "Unpaved".
They roll front to back but do not bounce.
Where did you find heavier support tubes/poles for the prorac system. I need to raise mine up about another 3-4" for our HW296.
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Old 05-30-2017, 06:23 AM   #16
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I work at a Manufacturing shop. The metal Department had some tube that was the same diameter but double the wall thickness
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Old 05-30-2017, 07:50 AM   #17
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My pro-rac came with pads for the rear tires. It reduces wear on the roof and spreads out the contact point a bit
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:25 AM   #18
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Just personal experience and opinion:

I put Thule racks on my 2000 Coleman Westlake (12ft box) pop-up to carry 4 bikes or a canoe. Despite this being the notorious Coleman one-piece roof, I never had a roof issue from the bikes (I had thin cracks in the top lamination which I repaired with reinforced epoxy and gel coat). The bikes did bounce a little on some of the dirt roads, but we never went boondocking.

But I came to loathe those racks. They prevented installation of an air conditioner, which was probably no loss for us. But the bikes took at least an hour to load when I accounted for installing the bike trays, getting the bikes on the roof, and setting up the support arms. The 4 bikes had to be in a particular order to not interfere or rub on each other, and that order changed as the kids outgrew their bikes and got new ones. That loading routine delayed our departure from the campground for an hour after we had popped down the roof. No fun in the rain or a hot sun.

Upon arrival at the campsite, I had to get the bikes off before we could even start setting up the camper. This was frustrating for everybody. I often wondered if all the work was worth it, but then watching the kids ride bikes around the campground, I guess it was.

I found out carrying a 17ft canoe was even worse. Again, the canoe had to be removed before setup, and put back after take-down, which was a 2 person job. And if we weren't at a waterfront site, the canoe had to be carried to the water. After 2 trips, I changed to putting the canoe on the tow vehicle roof. Again, lots of great memories with the canoe. But I would never put it on the PUP roof again.

Same with bikes. I don't want a bike carrying system that interferes with raising and lowering the roof.

just my experiences
Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time
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Old 05-30-2017, 03:42 PM   #19
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Two points:

1. Trailer suspension sucks compared to tow vehicle suspension. Your bikes are far safer on the tow vehicle. I have a pickup, and I installed an aluminum tool box in the bed. I put two of these on the lid: https://www.backcountry.com/thule-lo...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
I can mount the front fork to these, and the rear tires could sit on the bed floor, a cooler, the top of a bundle of firewood, and so on.

2. When going off road, I drop the tire pressure on the trailer the way off-roaders do in Jeeps. In my case, 40 pounds in the trailer tires (compared to 50 to 60 for the highway) makes a big difference without risking the rims. At low speeds, tire flex will not overheat the tires.

I keep one of these in the truck: https://www.amazon.com/Viair-93-VIAI...air+compressor
Note the direct connection to the battery...not a cigarette lighter plug. This makes short work of adding air to the tires when you get back to pavement.
And your jumper cables can act as an extension cord.
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