Some basic questions on our new Rockwood

[dnachristen]

Hello!

We just purchased a used 1993 Rockwood XL pop up tent trailer and have a few questions.

1. What is the actual model number of this trailer? I've seen numbers like 2080 and 1040 from google searches.

2. Is there a place that has a floor plan in PDF for this model?

3. Where's the best place to get parts? I.E. Awning, inside curtains, door parts.

4. How do the electronic brakes work on this camper? I have an electronic brake wire in my connector for my 1999 Ford E-150 Conversion. It's a factory installed plug. Wonder if this means the electronic brake controller is built in? Dunno.

5. Does the inverter provide 12v out to the battery to charge? Can I use the 12v supply when hooked to 110v electrical? (I'm installing a 12v entertainment system)

I have the factory manual, actually two copies, but it doesn't mention the model number.

We just purchased this trailer for $1500.00, a great deal I think! Has the upgraded AC unit on top, 3 way fridge, toilet, 2 queen beds, sink, stove (in and out) and furnace. She's in great shape with just little cosmetic issues.

Thanks in advance!!

Doug in Oregon

[thehamguy1]

I can take a stab at #4. I don't think you'll find a built-in brake controller even though the factory may have prewired connectors for one. My 2000 Chevy pickup also had a prewired connector under the dash and a wire in the trailer connector for the brakes, but the controller I had to buy. It was easy to install, though, with all the wiring and connectors already there. It was plug-and-play.

You should check--or have checked for you--the brake shoes and the electromagnet inside each brake drum. Those need replacing and adjusting from time to time and given that your unit is 19 years old, a quick visual check should let you know their condition. The camper's manual may tell you how to check and adjust them. That's also a good time to check and repack the wheel bearings. If you don't think you want to tackle that, any RV dealer's shop should be able to do it--the parts are widely available. It may cost a few more bucks but it's cheaper than the first 5 minutes in the emergency room (that's my universal excuse for spending $$ on stuff).

[TURBS]

#5 its a converter not an inverter.
it does charge batterys as well as run 12v options

[dnachristen]

Thanks for the replies!!

That makes sense about the brake controller just being prewired. I'll have to pick up a controller. Any particular one you suggest?

Sorry... Yes, Converter.

Cool, I should be able to run a few things off the 12v. I'm installing a Car CD/DVD player with 2 speakers and a 19" 12v LCD. Have to keep the kids (by kids I mean me....LOL) entertained.

[Happy Vibe]

Your converter may not charge the battery. Does it have a switch on the front to change from AC to DC. This is how mine works in my 1997 Palomino so you can run from 120V Ac or the battery but it does not charge the battery.

[dnachristen]

Yes, it does have a switch. Maybe I'll just bring my charger with me this weekend. I can also hook it up in the driveway, disconnect the leads to the battery and test them with a volt meter in different switch settings.

[Jeep4Two]

I have the Prodigy P2 and love it with my AFrame (similar weights)

[thehamguy1]

Originally Posted by dnachristen

Thanks for the replies!!

That makes sense about the brake controller just being prewired. I'll have to pick up a controller. Any particular one you suggest?

I don't have wide experience with brake controllers enough to give a brand or model recommendation. As I understand it there are two basic types, depending on how they determine how much current to send to the electromagnets. The simpler type just slowly increases the current depending on how long you've had your foot on the brake. You can set the upper limit of current so that you don't lock the trailer brakes.

The other type is an inertial control that varies the current according to how hard you're stopping. If you're stomping on the brakes it sends more current to the trailer brakes than if you're just slowing down. This type seems to me to be more sophisticated but also more expensive.

I have the first kind, which ran me about $70, though there are cheaper ones available. You can get some basic info on the technology and what's available by Googling "brake controllers". Happy hunting!

Lee

[dnachristen]

Thanks!

Well I had a load of fun last night... First time setting it up and really checking it out. WOW!! I love this thing... And the wife is so excited she went out and bought a bunch of stuff to outfit it. NO MORE TENTING!! YEAH!!

I found the info plate on the side. It's a 1993 C-1006XL-2935.

I also got the converter up and running. The converter does not charge the battery on this model unfortunately.

Tried to fire up the fridge on 120v... No go. Just want to make sure I did it right... On the back of the fridge (outside access panel) there's a red turn style switch (3 position) I assume 12v, Gas, and 120v. I tried it on all 3 settings... Didn't hear the compressor kick on. I had power to the outlet where it was plugged it.

Did I miss something? I will pull out the manual tonight. Hopefully it will work on Propane at least. Do these use a lot of fuel to run?

[thehamguy1]

On the triple-fuel fridges there's no compressor. I can't explain how it does it but no compressor is needed. So flip on the 110 switch and let it run for a few hours. On gas, they do use a fair amount since I think the flame is on all the time. We've never run out, though. 12v will drain your battery just about overnight, so we use the 12v setting only while towing. The day before we leave we turn on the 110 switch. After hitching up and connecting the trailer's pigtail to the truck we turn it to 12v. At the campsite we go with either gas or 110 depending what's available.

These fridges can get quite cold. Before we knew what levels to set it at, ours froze the vegetables we'd put on the bottom shelf. On gas we finally had to turn it down to one and a half to keep food cold without freezing. The electric settings are a little higher on ours.

[dnachristen]

Nice! So I may not even hear it run then? Are there any tell tail signs that it's working... Besides the obvious?

Can't wait... We are going camping tomorrow! Funny thing is, we live in the woods and are going 1 1/2 miles up the road to a state park... LOL At least if something goes wrong on the first outing we're really close to home.

[thehamguy1]

If its like ours, not a sound. Just gets cold. Oh, the fins on the piping inside the outer access door will get hot.

[comfun1]

A few tips on the fridge. There is no compressor and no fan to circulate cold air inside the fridge. Try to turn on at least five or six hours ahead of departure time and load with cold food and drinks. If you plan to drink lots of beer or pop bring an ice chest for that. Don't open the door more than you have to. For about $5 you can buy a small fan that runs for weeks on one or two D cell batteries. It is about the size of your fist and you place it in the back of the fridge on the bottom shelf. It will help cool your food and drinks faster and more uniformly. The fridges do a great job you just can't stand in front of them with the door open the way we do at home.

[Jeep4Two]

If you want to know more about how your RV. Fridge work checkout the link below.

However, basically the solution on the coils is heated 12v, 120v or gas) and this starts the cycle. When the solution in the coils cools it gets really cold and cycles through the tubing into the fridge where it provides the cooling needed. As it warms it is drawn back out to be reheated and repeat the cycle. No moving mechanical parts.

All you might hear us popping from expansion if the fridge parts at it cools down.

http://gasrefrigeration.net/how_they_work.htm

[thehamguy1]

Good info, thanks!

Gas refrigerators can be amazingly reliable. My father-in-law had two full-size gas refrigerators in the main house on his island in Lake Vermillion. They were several decades old and still working fine when he sold the place.

[TheRappyCamp]

Have you been able to resolve this. Did you find any schematics? I ask because I'm in a similar position...

[bikendan]

this thread is nearly 2 years old. not sure if the OP is still around. their last post was in June of last year.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by bikendan

this thread is nearly 2 years old. not sure if the OP is still around. their last post was in June of last year.

Loctite Red #271 is suggested.